My Shaving Brush Ranking

[Hannah's Dad]

So I have been doing this for around 15 years, and have never heard of declaration grooming. Am I just really old? Looking at their pages, they charge $400 at the entry point? Are they that good? Don't get me wrong, I'll buy a Rolex, and be happy with it, but a shaving brush from a -10 year old vendor at over $400? What am I missing?

The main reason his prices are so high is because for a while, guys who were able to get a jump on brush drops were buying them at his $200-ish price points but then turning around and selling them in the secondary market for twice that amount or more. That bothered him, so he raised his prices 1) to discourage flipping and 2) because he thought guys were willing to pay those prices for a custom, hand-tied brush. He always seems to be sold out … so …

Other similar ‘high end’ artisans are also charging these prices, such as Varlet, Black Eagle, Wald.

 

[Southsider]

So I have been doing this for around 15 years, and have never heard of declaration grooming. Am I just really old? Looking at their pages, they charge $400 at the entry point? Are they that good? Don't get me wrong, I'll buy a Rolex, and be happy with it, but a shaving brush from a -10 year old vendor at over $400? What am I missing?

I note that you do have a Morris & Forndran from back in the day. I checked current prices on those and they are just a hair cheaper than a DG brush. I suspect that an original M&F brush from back in the day might bring a premium. If you were offered $400 for your brush would you sell it?

You and I are exactly opposite in at least one respect. I would not dream of buying a Rolex. A hand tied shaving brush is a relatively less expensive luxury. There is also the magic of the BST.

For me the question would have to be whether or not I would actually appreciate a Declaration Grooming brush and its nuances. The metaphor I would use has to do with cycling. Years ago, I was a dedicated long-distance cyclist. After years of experience, I ordered a complete custom bicycle frame costing what a Rolex would cost. It was built by a legendary frame-maker, the equivalent of Lee Sabini or Scott Stewart. When I ordered that frame, I knew what I was doing and could appreciate its nuances. OTOH, I saw plenty of dilettantes dropping big money on bicycles without a clue.

I am pretty sure Scott is at least 15 years old.

 

[Mr. Shavington]

The main reason his prices are so high is because for a while, guys who were able to get a jump on brush drops were buying them at his $200-ish price points but then turning around and selling them in the secondary market for twice that amount or more. That bothered him, so he raised his prices 1) to discourage flipping and 2) because he thought guys were willing to pay those prices for a custom, hand-tied brush. He always seems to be sold out … so …

Other similar ‘high end’ artisans are also charging these prices, such as Varlet, Black Eagle, Wald.

Not to mention Simpsons charging that sort of price too for a large diameter knot on a mass produced handle.

 

[SgtCrppls]

Not to mention Simpsons charging that sort of price too for a large diameter knot on a mass produced handle.

I think a lot of people are wanting unique handles as well as great knots, not just simply good knots with mass produced handles.

Doug

 

[Kendoll]

The main reason his prices are so high is because for a while, guys who were able to get a jump on brush drops were buying them at his $200-ish price points but then turning around and selling them in the secondary market for twice that amount or more. That bothered him, so he raised his prices 1) to discourage flipping and 2) because he thought guys were willing to pay those prices for a custom, hand-tied brush. He always seems to be sold out … so …

Other similar ‘high end’ artisans are also charging these prices, such as Varlet, Black Eagle, Wald.

There is alot of that going around with Rolexes right now. The sport models are extremely hard to find at AD's, as there are people that will go in and buy large swath's of inventory on a credit card, and then turn around and sell them on the secondary market for far more than retail. While Rolex is very adamant about dealer not discounting, they likewise frown on AD's selling for over retail as well. This is why you can find a GMT master with a Pepsi bezel listed at over 20K for a stainless version. I have an inkling some less scrupulous AD's even do this in association with the reseller. As a result, my last inquiry I was told the AD would not take a credit card for a single watch purpose.

I note that you do have a Morris & Forndran from back in the day. I checked current prices on those and they are just a hair cheaper than a DG brush. I suspect that an original M&F brush from back in the day might bring a premium. If you were offered $400 for your brush would you sell it?

You and I are exactly opposite in at least one respect. I would not dream of buying a Rolex. A hand tied shaving brush is a relatively less expensive luxury. There is also the magic of the BST.

For me the question would have to be whether or not I would actually appreciate a Declaration Grooming brush and its nuances. The metaphor I would use has to do with cycling. Years ago, I was a dedicated long-distance cyclist. After years of experience, I ordered a complete custom bicycle frame costing what a Rolex would cost. It was built by a legendary frame-maker, the equivalent of Lee Sabini or Scott Stewart. When I ordered that frame, I knew what I was doing and could appreciate its nuances. OTOH, I saw plenty of dilettantes dropping big money on bicycles without a clue.

I am pretty sure Scott is at least 15 years old.

"I note that you do have a Morris & Forndran from back in the day. I checked current prices on those and they are just a hair cheaper than a DG brush. I suspect that an original M&F brush from back in the day might bring a premium. If you were offered $400 for your brush would you sell it?"

You offering to buy? . Actually no, I would not sell it. I buy things to use and enjoy. The idea of buying any luxury item as an "investment vehicle" is lost on me. I do not believe it is realistic. Lots of things have to align and come together for that to happen.

"Years ago, I was a dedicated long-distance cyclist. After years of experience, I ordered a complete custom bicycle frame costing what a Rolex would cost."

Which Rolex? That's a pretty big range, and they have increased a bit since years ago. I have a friend that does cycling events in Italy, and they are themed every year. So say it's a seventies ride, they only use gear and equipment from that decade. He has an very large room with just cycles and parts. It can be an expensive hobby.

I am pretty sure Scott is at least 15 years old.

I would hope so, as "It's Always in Philadelphia" is rated TV-MA, which he must be a fan of by calling his newest base "milksteak". I was referring to the age of the company, not the proprietors age.

 

[NomadicDave]

I have only been wet shaving for 10 years but was always a boar and synthetic guy. Recently I decided I would give badger brushes a try. Down the rabbit hole, I went and discovered a few great artists just to name a few of them DG, Leo, Paladin, Varlet, and TNS.

I decided to start with a Paladin Chief 26mm. Really loved the handle and the price point seemed great for this type of work. To me, it's very easy to see why people are willing to drop $400 on a DG or $500 on a Varlet. These knots are top performers in all aspects. Now add that these handles are custom-made and not massed produced you have the perfect storm for high prices. Low Supply + High Demand = Higher Cost.

My favorite handles so far would be ranked
1. DG
2. Leo
3. Paladin
4. Varlet
5. TNS

I will say that I have found some other artists with beautiful handles like Grizzly Bay & Chisel&Hound. These handles are more affordable and you can buy the higher-grade knots above.

Favorite Synthetic
1. Simpson T3

I actually got lucky and reached out to Scott of DG to see if he had any more of the "Spooky B15 28mm" brushes even though the site has said sold out. I love fall and Halloween so this one spoke to me. He did some digging for me and found one he forgot about that was the prop for the photos on the site. He sent me the invoice and I will be getting it soon. I have heard the B15 is a bit better than the B14 by a few people. But I have no clue as this will be my first DG.

I hear nothing but amazing things about the Varlets. I have to say I'm not impressed with the handles in the least for that price. I do like that they give to the Semper FI Fund. As a current AD Marine that is nice to see. I have heard it's well over a 12-month wait for his brushes. I might buy one day but I think my next buy will be a Leo. For me, I rather have a few high-end performers that I also love the handle on them vs a ton of brushes that are ok. This is how I look at most things I own. I pay for quality and own less. I also live full-time in an RV so space is limited. I'm the same way with my razors, but soaps and splashes is another story.

I'm eyeing this 28mm HD Fan pictured below. Sorry about the long post and only ranking handles. Semper FI

 

[Dtownvino]

If you really like a density and some scrub, I love my Shavemac D01 24mm fan. I wouldn’t dare put it in a bulb because it has more backbone than my Manchurian knot. For me, this is really a special brush that on the right day when I want a bit more scrub I break it out. Other than that, it’s all Shavemac (20-26) and one Brad Sears in the rotation. What can I say, Shavemac works for me and @Rudy Vey has crafted 5 brushes for me this year and I love them all.

 

[AG69]

I have tried many... I have sold many... I still keep a few Here is my list of the top brushes (YMMV):

#1 by far: Paladin
#2: M&F
#3: DG with Dogwood crafts handles
#4: Simpsons
#5: Varlet
#6: Viking Soaps

And here is the list of my top knots based on lathering characteristics and aesthetics:
#1: Long Shaving
#2: DG B6 and B15
#3: Paladin ...B5, ...A7, ...J6, ...L6
#4: Odin's Beard from Viking Soaps

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

I've now used my Mozingo brush enough to have a pretty good feel for it. It is an excellent brush. I find absolutely no reason to believe the knot has even a hint of gel.

Of course I don't absolutely know this for a fact, but the knot seems to me to be natural and not chemically treated. I'd be interested in any evidence to the contrary.

This is a very interesting thread.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Hannah's Dad]

View attachment 1575282



I've now used my Mozingo brush enough to have a pretty good feel for it. It is an excellent brush. I find absolutely no reason to believe the knot has even a hint of gel.

Of course I don't absolutely know this for a fact, but the knot seems to me to be natural and not chemically treated. I'd be interested in any evidence to the contrary.

This is a very interesting thread.

Happy shaves,

Jim

The white tips seem to imply some treatment; but I agree that no apparent gelling occurs with the ZT4. It doesn’t dry crunchy and has a bit of scrub to the knot.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

The white tips seem to imply some treatment; but I agree that no apparent gelling occurs with the ZT4. It doesn’t dry crunchy and has a bit of scrub to the knot.

View attachment 1575285

Thank you, sir.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Hannah's Dad]

Thank you, sir.

Happy shaves,

Jim

Your knot also seems to have a good number of tips that ‘poke out’ from the top of the knot. I don’t know whether to expect these to eventually fall out or whether that was just how the knot was tied (lacking pristine uniformity in height of hair).

It is a brilliant knot, regardless.

 

[CJB3]

Your knot also seems to have a good number of tips that ‘poke out’ from the top of the knot. I don’t know whether to expect these to eventually fall out or whether that was just how the knot was tied (lacking pristine uniformity in height of hair).

It is a brilliant knot, regardless.

Same with mine. This is different from my ZT3, which does not have tips sticking out. Still, I love the ZT4 knot.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Your knot also seems to have a good number of tips that ‘poke out’ from the top of the knot. I don’t know whether to expect these to eventually fall out or whether that was just how the knot was tied (lacking pristine uniformity in height of hair).

It is a brilliant knot, regardless.

Yes, I see what you mean.

The knot has lost very few if any hairs. If there have been more than a handful of loose hairs I've missed seeing them. Generally I assume a few loose hairs and pay no attention to them, but I can't say for sure one way or another whether there were any in this knot.

Yes, it is an excellent knot.

I recall wanting it to break in just a bit when I first used it. Meaning get just a little softer. In short order, it did just that.

By any standard it is a huge knot. It performs as a brush should. It has performance and feel characteristics to my liking. I see no downsides to it which is why I'm having Brett install one of these knots in the handle I sent to him yesterday.

I'm also on the lookout for a brush into which I might ask Brett to install a 24 mm knot. It's easy to find great handles for 26 and 28 mm knots (particular 26 mm) but not easy to find a great handle for a 24 mm knot.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Hannah's Dad]

Yes, I see what you mean.

The knot has lost very few if any hairs. If there have been more than a handful of loose hairs I've missed seeing them. Generally I assume a few loose hairs and pay no attention to them, but I can't say for sure one way or another whether there were any in this knot.

Yes, it is an excellent knot.

I recall wanting it to break in just a bit when I first used it. Meaning get just a little softer. In short order, it did just that.

By any standard it is a huge knot. It performs as a brush should. It has performance and feel characteristics to my liking. I see no downsides to it which is why I'm having Brett install one of these knots in the handle I sent to him yesterday.

I'm also on the lookout for a brush into which I might ask Brett to install a 24 mm knot. It's easy to find great handles for 26 and 28 mm knots (particular 26 mm) but not easy to find a great handle for a 24 mm knot.

Happy shaves,

Jim

I’m with you on the ‘huge knot’ comment. I tried (unsuccessfully) to BST mine because it’s just too large for my tastes; but I’ll use it on occasion and suffer its size for its performance.

I think a 24mm knot in this batch of hair would be sublime.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

I’m with you on the ‘huge knot’ comment. I tried (unsuccessfully) to BST mine because it’s just too large for my tastes; but I’ll use it on occasion and suffer its size for its performance.

I think a 24mm knot in this batch of hair would be sublime.

I missed yours on the BST.

 

[CJB3]

I agree Brett’s knots seem huge. I do like them though. Lately, I seem to favor larger knots—my Mozingo ZT4 28mm and my Varlet 29mm (in regular high density). Another thing I like about the Mozingo (and the Varlet) is the density. It is plenty dense, but still has excellent flow through and splay.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

I agree Brett’s knots seem huge. I do like them though. Lately, I seem to favor larger knots—my Mozingo ZT4 28mm and my Varlet 29mm (in regular high density). Another thing I like about the Mozingo (and the Varlet) is the density. It is plenty dense, but still has excellent flow through and splay.

Yes.

I've finally learned the value of knots which aren't overly dense. I want great, delicious scrub but not too much backbone. I want softness but not at the expense of scrub. I want excellent flow through and splay.

Sounds like we're interested in the same qualities.

Not that I have a Varlet! That's seriously high cotton. I've never seen one except on the BST and in the secondary market (and of course photos of those owned by members). Even used they are high dollar items. Partly I acquired a Mozingo because folks said it was like a Varlet but available and not quite as expensive.

My SV brushes are hard to beat, too. They have the qualities I like. In fact, they sort of showed me what I like.

I hardly touch my Shavemac knots anymore or my Simpsons including the Simpson Manchurian. Not that they aren't great, but I like the Mozingo and the SV brushes better.

Rudy Vey Manchurians (mine anyway) and my Zenith Manchurians are also very good. Zenith Manchurians take forever to fully break in but are worth the wait.

To me, of the totally badger knots I've tried, SV and Mozingo are top of the heap. That going by what I tend to grab (having many other choices).

I also like boars and my one horse and most of the mistura knots, but, mostly, other than Boarember/DecemBoar I tend to reach for SVs and Big Mo.

Any idea what the Mozingo badger hair type is? I'd guess Manchurian (whatever that actually means). I've asked Brett the same question but receive no response yet.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[CJB3]

Yes.

I've finally learned the value of knots which aren't overly dense. I want great, delicious scrub but not too much backbone. I want softness but not at the expense of scrub. I want excellent flow through and splay.

Sounds like we're interested in the same qualities.

Not that I have a Varlet! That's seriously high cotton. I've never seen one except on the BST and in the secondary market (and of course photos of those owned by members). Even used they are high dollar items. Partly I acquired a Mozingo because folks said it was like a Varlet but available and not quite as expensive.

My SV brushes are hard to beat, too. They have the qualities I like. In fact, they sort of showed me what I like.

I hardly touch my Shavemac knots anymore or my Simpsons including the Simpson Manchurian. Not that they aren't great, but I like the Mozingo and the SV brushes better.

Rudy Vey Manchurians (mine anyway) and my Zenith Manchurians are also very good. Zenith Manchurians take forever to fully break in but are worth the wait.

Any idea what the Mozingo badger hair type is? I'd guess Manchurian (whatever that actually means). I've asked Brett the same question but receive no response yet.

Happy shaves,

Jim

I have no idea about the hair Brett uses, Jim. It does have the best qualities of badger hair, IMO—or at least the qualities I prize most.

I agree that our tastes are similar. Varlets are excellent brushes, but Mozingos are just as good, IMO. I was crazy enough to buy two Varlets.

 

[CJB3]

I was very surprised, Dan, that your Mozingo didn’t sell. Must be a soft market now—or people don’t realize how good they are yet.

You should have Rudy make a handle for a 24mm knot when he recovers.