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High Proof Razor Impressions

I was backer #14 on the High Proof Razor Kickstarter campaign, and I received my razor this morning. I'm an avid user and collector of vintage razors (over 250), but this thoroughly modern (dare I say, "anti-vintage") razor piqued my interest from the first time I saw it. I could not wait to give it a try. Photos of the package (FYI) and the shave setup I used on its maiden voyage follow my impressions.

Shave setup: High Proof Razor with half of a DE American Personna blade loaded (included with the razor). Noxema as pre-shave wash. Stirling Christmas Eve soap, splash, and balm. I love the scent and performance of the Stirling products. I had never used a "new" American Personna blade, but I have a few dozen vintage versions that I've used and enjoyed.

First impressions. The razor is almost impossibly lightweight at 22 grams, but feels indestructible nonetheless. The "spring" force provided by the neodymium magnets feels uncannily the same as a mechanical spring but will never break. I'm a sucker for this type of detail. These magnets also make the razor compatible with the magnetic razor mount, another nice detail. The packaging gets the job done.

First pass WTG. This razor feels very different from almost anything that I've used before. It is extremely smooth and comfortable. The closest is the Wilkinson Bonded Blade cartridge from the early 1970s (I told you, avid collector :)). As seen in the last photo, when the blade is mounted, it barely shows from the head, which presents a very large and flat surface that rides along your skin as you shave. Because of this large contact patch, blade feel is just barely present, and the razor often leaves a very slight film of lather in spots. I also found that the razor sometimes felt like it was dragging on my skin, not chattering or bouncing, just pulling my skin more than with my traditional vintage razors. On my cheeks, I went WTG and then followed immediately XTG without re-lathering. On my goatee and neck area, I just did WTG. On my moustache area, I went XTG and paid extra attention to trying to get the whiskers just outside my nostrils (they are tough to reach for any razor and particularly hard to reach with this one). I got the job done. Overall, my cheeks and moustache were DFS- and the rest of my face was SAS after the first pass--not the MOST efficient, but completely acceptable.

Second pass ATG. I re-lathered and went ATG everywhere. The razor was just as comfortable on the second pass as the first and was inspiring a lot of confidence that I could shave all day with it without irritating my skin. After the second pass, I had achieved BBS- everywhere, but I like the full BBS experience made possible by wet shaving, so I went for a third pass.

Third pass, direction as required. I used the third pass to give every part of my face the attention needed to get that BBS finish everywhere, and it worked to perfection. Count me as impressed!

Post-shave. I applied unscented Thayer's Witch Hazel immediately after my cold water rinse. I followed that with Stirling splash and then the balm, which left my face with a very comfortable warm and smooth feeling. I did notice that whiskers right at the edge of my lower lip were only DFS. I think this is a side effect of the large contact area. Sometimes, I found it a little challenging to know exactly where the blade was on my face. I did the cardinal sin of just wetting my face and touching those up and had no problems doing that. As I write this, I'm one hour post shave, and my skin feels great.

Overall impressions. This is a very nice modern interpretation of a wet shaving razor that allows you to use any DE blade that you prefer. The materials and workmanship are excellent, but not super flashy. The razor is all business. The handle feels great in my hand and the cutouts through the body create ridges that improve my grip on it. The razor inspired a lot of confidence in use and allowed me to just shave rather quickly without much concern of cuts, nicks, or irritation. I really like the functionality of the razor and will definitely use it in my rotation fairly often. I will especially reach for it if I have to shave on the second of back-to-back days (which doesn't happen that often for me). I will also reach for it if I'm in a hurry and all I need is a DFS+ or BBS- finish (only two passes needed). I also think this razor would be a superb way for anyone to start wet shaving because it is so forgiving and has superficial similarities to cartridge razors because of the pivoting head. I recommend it without reservation. This is great work from the guys at High Proof Razor Company.

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Excellent review @mgweatherly. Mine just came in the mail a few minutes ago. I was order number 9. I'll shave with it in the morning (the wife has ok'd this) then it will have to go under the tree until Christmas.

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Silver! I had actually asked in a note in my Kickstarter survey response to have a silver head on a black handle. That request was lost in the ether (definitely a first world problem). I look forward to your impressions :thumbup: .
 
Very thorough review. Nice @mgweatherly! Would this be allowed on a plane as travel kit you think?

Guido
I've wondered the same thing. It looks so "conventional" (that is, like a cartridge) and the blade looks to be fixed in the head, so the security folks here in the States would probably let it go 9 times out of 10. And, if they had a problem, you could just open the razor and throw the blade away to get through security. Of course, they would probably detect and confiscate any other blades that you had in your carry on. But hey, DE blades are cheap, at least some can be found almost everywhere, and this razor strikes me as being very forgiving on what type of blade you use. My first impression is that the sharper the blade, the better. Personnas are generally viewed as being pretty sharp, and you don't really feel much blade at all while shaving.
 
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Silver! I had actually asked in a note in my Kickstarter survey response to have a silver head on a black handle. That request was lost in the ether (definitely a first world problem). I look forward to your impressions :thumbup: .
I had sent in a note to Andy, the designer of the razor to ask whether it was possible for me to get another razor with the silver head on a black handle, and he has already responded! He is looking into it to see what he can do and says that customer service is #1. Very encouraging, and I'll keep everyone posted here.
 
It looks so "conventional" (that is, like a cartridge) and the blade looks to be fixed in the head, so the security folks here in the States would probably let it go 9 times out of 10.
My sentiments exactly - and I think they are serious competition to Leaf with (to me) an easier design razor with similar benefits (besides the multi blade option of the Leaf).

Really interesting and thank you for bringing this to my/our attention.

Guido
 
My sentiments exactly - and I think they are serious competition to Leaf with (to me) an easier design razor with similar benefits (besides the multi blade option of the Leaf).

Really interesting and thank you for bringing this to my/our attention.

Guido
I've never used a Leaf or a Twig, and the multiple blade feature actually put me off. If someone gave one to me, would I try it? Heck yeah, I'll try most anything once. I know both types have their fans, which is great. Whatever works for each one of us is what I believe to be the best. So many wet shavers say that the multiple blade setups cause irritation or ingrown hairs. I find using just one blade to give the closest and most comfortable shaves I've ever had.
 
I took out my feeler gauges to see if I could measure the blade gap and my best measurement is 0.014 inches or 0.35 mm, pretty small. I tried to measure the gap in a direction perpendicular to the plane of the blade.

The blade exposure appears to be only very slightly positive. That is, the cutting edge of the blade protrudes only very slightly above the plane defined by the top surface of the solid bar guard and the top surface of the retaining clip that covers the blade (these two surfaces appear to be in the same plane).

I can see why this razor feels as safe and easy to use as it does. I'm gonna be honest and say it will be hard to put this razor away for a bit as I return to my PIF'd Blade Journey.
 
I messaged Andy back in October about specs and he gave me the following -

20g, .72 oz
.003” positive blade exposure
.034” blade gap

I converted inch to mm -
.003 inch to .076 mm positive blade exposure
.034 inch to .86 mm blade gap
 
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Very interesting razor - checked out their website. I use an occasional disposable razor and this is definitely a worthy alternative keeping to the DE mindset.

Guido
 
My first shave impressions are good. I used a new Astra SP (half) and expected some tugging because of the email from High Proof yesterday recommending the Lab Blue blades that come with the razor or a Feather blade. I had a smooth shave with BBS result after some buffing. I'm sure it will be even better with a Feather or Nacet or Wizamet SI.

I expected some problems trimming sideburns with the pivoting head but had none. I did have some trouble under the nose both because of the shape of the head and the pivoting head. I'm sure this can be improved with practice and experience with the razor.

I'd describe it as a mild razor that would do best with a good sharp blade. It could easily be an autopilot razor for me once the under-nose technique is mastered. Definitely would be a good choice for someone converting from pivoting head cartridge razors to DE. And the blades last twice as long using only half at a time.

Took a few more pics. Tried to show the amount of pivot the head has. Build quality is good, there is no looseness in the pivot. I love the use of magnets to attach the blade and top cap as well as opposing magnets for the head pivot.

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My first shave impressions are good. I used a new Astra SP (half) and expected some tugging because of the email from High Proof yesterday recommending the Lab Blue blades that come with the razor or a Feather blade. I had a smooth shave with BBS result after some buffing. I'm sure it will be even better with a Feather or Nacet or Wizamet SI.

I expected some problems trimming sideburns with the pivoting head but had none. I did have some trouble under the nose both because of the shape of the head and the pivoting head. I'm sure this can be improved with practice and experience with the razor.

I'd describe it as a mild razor that would do best with a good sharp blade. It could easily be an autopilot razor for me once the under-nose technique is mastered. Definitely would be a good choice for someone converting from pivoting head cartridge razors to DE. And the blades last twice as long using only half at a time.

Took a few more pics. Tried to show the amount of pivot the head has. Build quality is good, there is no looseness in the pivot. I love the use of magnets to attach the blade and top cap as well as opposing magnets for the head pivot.

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Great photos and review! I completely agree with your assessment that it can be an "autopilot" razor. Like you, under the nose is definitely trickier because of the shape of the head, but I was able to get that area done with some careful attention. Over time, the technique would become second nature. When you watch the YouTube content about the motive for designing the razor, Dave said that he enjoyed using DE razors but wanted something "faster" that still used a DE blade. I would say he accomplished that design objective very well.

For those of us who shave areas other than our face, like head shaving or women shaving legs, I think this razor would be a revelation.
 
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