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Brass TTO/Butterfly Safety Razor. What Models Should I be Looking At?

Hey Folks.

I am looking to buy a D.E. safety razor.

Requirements:

1. Brass construction, with / without gold-plating. But not nickel or chrome plating.

2. TTO / butterfly-opening.

3. Gillette (not 100% necessary, but preferable).

What models of razors should I be looking at?

I'm aware of the Gillette Aristocrat, and the Gillette Milord.

Are there any other models that I should possibly consider?

Thanks!!
 
As far as modern models go, there's Weishi adjustable, in black, alongside the Yintal twist-to-open, in what I believe is passivated brass. It would likely be best to use a replating service given that you would prefer a Gillette razor - They're also more compact than the ones I've mentioned, which are significantly heavier & longer.
 

nemo

Lunatic Fringe
Staff member
If you're in Australia I'd look around for Gillette Rocket models or a U.S. Super Speed, the latter would likely be cheaper.
Then send it out for a gold replate.
But why no nickel? You miss out on a lot of good stuff.
 

Hannah's Dad

I Can See Better Than Bigfoot.
Hey Folks.

I am looking to buy a D.E. safety razor.

Requirements:

1. Brass construction, with / without gold-plating. But not nickel or chrome plating.

2. TTO / butterfly-opening.

3. Gillette (not 100% necessary, but preferable).

What models of razors should I be looking at?

I'm aware of the Gillette Aristocrat, and the Gillette Milord.

Are there any other models that I should possibly consider?

Thanks!!
Try and locate the 1934 Gillette Aristocrat. Remarkable razor.
 
If you're in Australia I'd look around for Gillette Rocket models or a U.S. Super Speed, the latter would likely be cheaper.
Then send it out for a gold replate.
But why no nickel? You miss out on a lot of good stuff.

Nickel causes cancer in California.


Metallic nickel and some nickel compounds
are already designated as carcinogenic substances under Proposition 65.
 
Nickel causes cancer in California.


Metallic nickel and some nickel compounds
are already designated as carcinogenic substances under Proposition 65.
The link talks about soluble nickel compounds, but is still vague on quantities and mechanism, and after a bout of searching around, I haven't find anything with specific amounts and safety ranges.

Have you managed to find something more specific?
 
Most of the Gillette TTOs were made of brass and can be found with gold-plating. I will caution you that all the gold-plated TTOs of which I'm aware have plating that is pretty thin. When the plating wears through, some of the razors in the list below give an appearance of a silver-colored underplating, which I assume to be nickel. Someone who knows for sure could weigh in with better information. I own and have shaved with each of the ones listed below and they are all wonderful shavers. At the risk of leaving something out, here's my list:
  • 1934 Aristocrat, open comb and the first TTO ever made by Gillette. It also has a beautiful barber-pole style knurling on a thick (for Gillette) handle. They are fantastic shavers, very efficient with a fair amount of blade feel without feeling too aggressive.
  • 1937-39 Sheraton, another open comb razor but with a thinner handle than the Aristocrat with "normal" knurling. Another really great shaver that is very similar to the '34 Aristocrat. I have a 1938 Sheraton that had its plating almost gone when I bought it. It showed no signs of nickel underplating.
  • 1941-50ish Milord, a closed comb razor that is essentially a gold-plated version of the Ranger Tech/first generation Super Speed. They are milder than the '34 Aristocrat and Sheraton, but still get the job done very well. I've got a 1941 and two 1946 Milords. The 1941 I have was in really bad shape when I got it with the gold almost gone with no signs of nickel underplating. I cannot vouch for the post WWII versions on whether they have nickel underplating.
  • 1941-51ish Aristocrat, another closed comb razor with a larger diameter handle with great banded knurling and a slightly more aggressive feel than the Milord (IMO). Still a fairly mild razor though. I've got a 1941, 1948, and 1951 Aristocrat. This is one of the types that may have a nickel underplating, at least as of the late 1940s.
  • Late 1940s to mid-1950s British Aristocrats. They are closed comb razors. Some plated in Rhodium and others in gold. I've never shaved with one, but I have shaved with a late 1950s Rocket HD, and it was one of the best shaves I've ever had. I highly recommend these types, and you just might have better access to them Down Under than we do here in the States. They have a really smooth TTO mechanism that is different than the American made razors of the same era. If you have patience, and a little bit of money to spend, I'd hunt these.
  • 1958 Executive, a gold-plated version of the Fatboy, but with heavier knurling on the handle (like a Toggle). This is one of my favorite razors of all time because of its adjustability and the great feel of the handle, but they are hard to find for a decent price. I have one, and it cost me. This one probably has nickel underplating.
  • 1958, 60 Toggle, most of them are gold-plated and they are wonderful shavers too, but they are either really hard to find or really expensive, or both. I've got a 1960 F4. Probably not what you're looking for.
  • 1961-68 Aristocrat, a gold-plated Slim that shaves just like a normal Slim in every way. I've got a couple and they are very high on my list of great shavers. They are relatively easy to find, but they do fetch a premium when they are in good shape. These appear to have nickel underplating.
  • 1969 Super Adjustable Gold (Aristocrat in Japan). Right at the start of production of the Super Adjustable, Gillette sold a gold-plated version. The quality of the Super Adjustable just doesn't feel as high as the Slim and Fatboy. I have a NOS 1969 O4 Super Adjustable that I've never used. I presume that it shaves just like a "normal" Super Adjustable, which is pretty great.
Some Gillette TTOs had aluminum handles, but they had nickel-plated heads (1950-51 Black Tip Super Speeds and Blue Tip Super Speeds). There was a British Rocket that was all aluminum in the 1950s, but I've never seen or used one. I hope this list helps. I apologize for the length.

@nemo's suggestion to send a typical 1940s-60s Super Speed for a gold replate is a great one. Those razors shave great, mild but efficient enough, are very easy to find, and beautiful when replated in gold.

Good hunting.
 
The link talks about soluble nickel compounds, but is still vague on quantities and mechanism, and after a bout of searching around, I haven't find anything with specific amounts and safety ranges.

Have you managed to find something more specific?

This line was a quote from that article:
"Metallic nickel and some nickel compounds
are already designated as carcinogenic substances under Proposition 65."

As far as I know,
metallic nickel doesn't cause cancer outside of California,
so myself being elsewhere, I don't worry about it.
 
This line was a quote from that article:
"Metallic nickel and some nickel compounds
are already designated as carcinogenic substances under Proposition 65."

As far as I know,
metallic nickel doesn't cause cancer outside of California,
so myself being elsewhere, I don't worry about it.
So according to Prop 65 what doesn’t cause cancer? If they need Prop 65 they must be about as “sharp” as a derby blade
 
If I were in your shoes and was looking to use something vs collecting a 1948-1951? USA aristocrat. They’re not too expensive (easy to find without S&H here for $40) and more common online in good shape. I have a super speed for that era and it shaves pretty well. It’s not the most aggressive but it works well. People comment about the USA TTO razors from the earlier 40s having more blade feel a lot. I also notice the aristocrat gold plating seems to stand the test of time better than the milords do.

Open combs look nice but they just don’t agree with me. Even with shipping a USA razor may be cheaper than an English one.
 

Phoenixkh

I shaved a fortune
Several people here really like their Gillette British Rocket HD 500 razors. If I have it right, they are close to the US Aristocrat Junior, but don't quote me on that.

Anyway, I have one in my razor queue. I should get to it sometime next month, perhaps. It is supposed to fall into the "mild but efficient" genre. I hope it does. That type of razor seems to be working very well for me.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions, guys.

I've been looking up the various models.

I would LOVE a 1930s Aristocrat, but Aristocrats in general seem to be really expensive.

I'm currently eyeing a Milord, but I'll keep looking to see what else pops up.

I did try bidding on a 30s Aristocrat, but lordy lordy lord...
 
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