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Looking to purchase first higher end razor help.

AS-D2s are a little over half that price new and considerably less used. But I'm curious, how do you know their made with MIM? Having three Techs and an AS-D2, I think the AS-D2 is a made better razor all around but I'm not sure it shaves any better than a Tech.
Sorry, I have the asd2s...stand.
As for MIM, I can't (lazy won't) point to a link, but it's been discussed specifically on this one more than once.
I believe the hamster are machines, the head and baseplate MIM, evidenced by the clear mold marks and knit lines.
 
Well, if you chose to post something that backs up what you claimed, please do. Otherwise, it's just gossip and means nothing to those of us without your apparent knowledge of MIM manufacturing.
 
Well, if you chose to post something that backs up what you claimed, please do. Otherwise, it's just gossip and means nothing to those of us without your apparent knowledge of MIM manufacturing.
Not gossip if you know what you're looking at or talking about. There are various discussions on the Feather specifically on b&b as well as the process on general to read up on if one is so inclined.
I'm very familiar with the process through direct experience with it in a technical sales role into the equipment itself... specifically the embedded computing and motion control side.
To dumb it down, a knit line is a the seam along the edges of the mold and the sites the material enters the mold. In the mim process they are very precise marks, and clearly evident.
 
I have an ASD2 that I purchased from a member here for $85 and it is one of my favorites, along with my RR Game Changer 68P. Sold my Overlander after just a few weeks.

I'm not going to recommend which razor the OP should buy, but I will say that Razorock razors are a fantastic value. Solid machined stainless steel, nicely finished, and a steal at 55 bucks.

...and I had also heard that the ASD2 was MIM. Can't back it up though, and to me it doesn't matter, still a great razor.
 
Not gossip if you know what you're looking at or talking about. There are various discussions on the Feather specifically on b&b as well as the process on general to read up on if one is so inclined.
I'm very familiar with the process through direct experience with it in a technical sales role into the equipment itself... specifically the embedded computing and motion control side.
To dumb it down, a knit line is a the seam along the edges of the mold and the sites the material enters the mold. In the mim process they are very precise marks, and clearly evident.

In the foundry, we called it a "parting line".
 
Wow, what'd you do in the foundry? Know inductotherm?

My first job out of high school was working at a Chrysler foundry in Detroit. We poured camshafts and timing gear blanks. I worked on the mold line, assembling the two flasks (mold halves, filled with sand) that made up the finished camshaft molds. The molds would come off the pattern and I would use a hoist to gently drop the top half onto the bottom, without destroying the sand mold within the flasks. We assembled 1100 molds per shift, with 6 cams per mold.

It was loud, hot, and filthy work - just the motivation I needed to get my butt into college.
 
My first job out of high school was working at a Chrysler foundry in Detroit. We poured camshafts and timing gear blanks. I worked on the mold line, assembling the two flasks (mold halves, filled with sand) that made up the finished camshaft molds. The molds would come off the pattern and I would use a hoist to gently drop the top half onto the bottom, without destroying the sand mold within the flasks. We assembled 1100 molds per shift, with 6 cams per mold.

It was loud, hot, and filthy work - just the motivation I needed to get my butt into college.
I'll bet! I feel awful for some of the people I see.
 
LRod wrote:

. . . The reason I say this is because of I had to do it over, I'd buy an adjustable first.

+1.

I started out with a Gillette Tech, then got an EJ DE89, then got a Merkur Progress. That was the only razor I used, for many years. It's not perfect (you must be careful about blade alignment, when changing blades), but it's very good. And it proved that I'm more comfortable with mild razors, than with aggressive ones. (A Razorock Lupo Al works nicely -- bought one this year.)

. . . If I buy another razor, I'll have to work _really hard_ to justify it.<g>

A Progress, or the newer Pearl Flexi, will let you experiment and figure out what _you_ like to use. Much cheaper than getting a bunch of equal-quality "fixed gap" razors, looking for the "right one".

. Charles
 

Phoenixkh

I shaved a fortune
Thank you everyone for reply I ended up getting a Karve Overlander in Stainless Steel
Congrats... I hope I like my Blutt 1.2 as much as I'm sure you'll like your Overlander.... it was a close call for me.. which to buy. I won't be able to try mine until we get home on Sept. 21st.... though, our trip might get extended if I have any issues with the dental work... I sure hope I don't.
 
Hey everyone so im looking to make my first higher end razor purchase that i primarily use for awhile looking for opinions on afew.

Alittle about me just started wet shaving back in april, i started with a Leaf Twig which i used for afew months to get used to before switching to a merkur 34c. I have also tried afew very cheap ones from walmart which tore me up. I tend to like a more mild/medium razor.

Was looking at afew options a Karve christopher bradley with B plate and would probably at some point try C plate. 2nd option is a Karve Overlander when it comes out in stainless steel. 3rd option is a Tatara Masamune and probably at some point would get Nodachi top cap to try out. Or just wait down the road and get a Tatara Muramasa.

Curious peoples thoughts on these razors that have tried and how efficient they are would they be good for newer people.

Thanks in advance
In my experience the razor itself won't make such a difference. I *STRONGLY* recommend carbon steel blades over stainless steel as they are MUCH kinder to the skin. They won't give you nearly as many shaves though, being somewhat softer, but your face will thank you for the change.

This is the main reason why I mostly shave with straight razors. I have one SS straight razor and when I give it a wicked sharp edge it too feels rough. This past week I have been shaving with two safety razors, both with SS blades and I don't think my face can handle much more of them.
 
What exactly will a spendy razor do that a quality 90 year old vintage do, except drain your wallet? The vintage has already withstood the test of time.
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What exactly will a spendy razor do that a quality 90 year old vintage do, except drain your wallet? The vintage has already withstood the test of time.

Support modern skilled machinists. Support the wet shaving industry in general. Provide personal satisfaction to it's owner (maybe, subjective).
Also, and this is the real answer and the only answer that matters: People liking and wanting high end modern razors doesn't need to have anything to do with whether or not they are "better" than vintage ones. If I buy a Wolfman, it doesn't mean I think someone's Toggle is crap, it just means that I wanted the Wolfman.
 
Best option, especially for a new wet shaver - Phoenix DOC, nickel plated, around $35. Currently sold out on the website. Shaves like a GC .84 but smoother. Like, can't-feel-it smooth.
Disclaimer: currently using a Variant, another good one, but DOC might be world's best design, IMO. One razor to rule them all.
 
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