Steep angle and blade gap

[sakaltras]

I'm one of those who gets the best shaving results when shaving with a steep angle. Some razors allow this, some not. Well known razors that can be used with a steep angle are Old Type, R41 and Rotbart (No 15). However, when comparing the results of consecutive shaves I realized that the Old Type gives much more reliable shaves with less irritation. My Rotbart gives me on some days really great results without any irritation, but one some days my face looks like a tomato. I believe the reason is my unability to keep the shaving angle. I would expect that my muscle memory needs more training but at the moment I'm likely changing the shaving angle during one shave. But this should happen with both razors, Old Type and Rotbart. So, why does one gives nevertheless better shaving results than the other?

My theory is that it depend on the blade gap. The Old Type has not a real blade gap whereas the Rotbart has a large one. I have tried to illustrate the effect of the blade gap to steep angle shaving when someone like me cannot keep the steep angle at the certain level:

This is a very simplified picture showing an Old Type as it is without a blade gap on the left and an Old Type with a blade gap (to keep things simple). The top row shows both Old Types with and without blade gap how a typical riding-the-guard shave should look like. The bottom row shows both when the shaving angle becomes 10 degrees shallower.

Bottom left:

Bottom right:

I believe that with a varying shaving angle the effective blade exposure changes. Thus the shallower the angle the more contact between skin and blade. The blade gap increases this effect which I have tried to show in the last two pictures. The more contact (thus more pressure) between skin and blade, the more irritation. At least to my theory.

So, what do you thing? If this is true, it will cure my RAD

Best wishes for the new year,

Sami


PS: Sorry for my English...

 

[Nehbulah]

I also get better results with razors designed to shave steep.
Notable ones for me:
-Karve Overlander
-Yates 921-M
-Henson
-Wet Shaving Club Merica razor
-Wet Shaving Club Winning razor

 

[sakaltras]

I also get better results with razors designed to shave steep.
Notable ones for me:
-Karve Overlander
-Yates 921-M
-Henson
-Wet Shaving Club Merica razor
-Wet Shaving Club Winning razor

Did you know this before that eg the Overlander is designed for steep angle? The website does not mention this.

 

[Nehbulah]

Did you know this before that eg the Overlander is designed for steep angle? The website does not mention this.

Yes, it's actually mentioned in the description on the website.
I didn't like the Christopher Bradley because it shaves shallow.
Yet I'm very much enjoying the Overlander.

 

[sakaltras]

Yes, it's actually mentioned in the description on the website.
I didn't like the Christopher Bradley because it shaves shallow.
Yet I'm very much enjoying the Overlander.

Thank you very much. I missed this info.

So, would you recommend it?

 

[SgtCrppls]

The best steep angle with efficiency and smoothness that I know of is the
WR2 w/ 1.25mm gap.

Doug

 

[Nehbulah]

I don't know if you like aggressive feeling razors.
I like mild, smooth, and efficient.
If you like aggressive, Yates has 3 levels of aggression for the 921-M.

 

[sakaltras]

The best steep angle with efficiency and smoothness that I know of is the
WR2 w/ 1.25mm gap.

Doug

Unfortunately beyond my budget. I know you buy it once and use it (if you want) your lifetime...

 

[SgtCrppls]

Then what I would recommend is the Timeless Ti or SS SB .95mm razor, it was my only razor for 6 months, absolutely incredible razor.

Good luck

Doug

 

[Medivh]

It's not that I hate razors that work better with shallow angle (riding the top cap), I feel forced to keep that angle and I find the steep angle razors to be much more intuitive and natural.

I do have a few shallow angle razors in my collection and they are in my rotation from time to time, but I have no desires to buy another one.

 

[sakaltras]

Today I tried a GEM Bullet Tip for the first time. It was my first SE shave ever. I started with a shallow angle and tried a steep angle for the third pass. Tomorrow I will go three passes steep. There are areas at my neck where I cannot shave shallow. I get irritation immediately. A steep angle seems also to work for a GEM Bullet Tip. But not that huge difference to DE razors as I have expected.

 

[Iridian]

About the theorycrafting... I will have to think some more about this.

But kudos for the great illustrations and effort, I also like to shave with a steep angle. I have a feeling you would love the Timeless Slim and the Monocero Husaria as much as I do!

 

[Iridian]

I also get better results with razors designed to shave steep.
Notable ones for me:
-Karve Overlander
-Yates 921-M
-Henson
-Wet Shaving Club Merica razor
-Wet Shaving Club Winning razor

I read your comment about the Christopher Bradley as well, and like many here tend to favor a steep angle by default. I am just wired that way, apparently. Riding the cap always requires a conscious effort for me.

I see a lot of YATES razors, I will have to finally get one! The Wet Shaving Club razors are supposedly/rumored to be made by Yates as well. The head design at least is typical for the Yates models as well.

 

[sakaltras]

About the theorycrafting... I will have to think some more about this.

But kudos for the great illustrations and effort, I also like to shave with a steep angle. I have a feeling you would love the Timeless Slim and the Monocero Husaria as much as I do!

Someone wrote that the Timeless Slim feels like an Old Type... That's exactly what I like.

Would you confirm this?

 

[something better]

I prefer steep angle when shaving my neck and a shallow angle when shaving my face. The hair on my neck is more coarse. For that I generally prefer a more aggressive razor. ATTR1 Shaves my neck probably the best but you have to be very gingerly with it around the face. Lupo 95 also works well

 

[Iridian]

Someone wrote that the Timeless Slim feels like an Old Type... That's exactly what I like.

Would you confirm this?

I know the thread you are refering to, but I personally CAN'T. I don't have an Old Type. But I suggest asking other Slim owners, they might be able to relate. It shaves very differently to the .95 head.

 

[sakaltras]

I prefer steep angle when shaving my neck and a shallow angle when shaving my face. The hair on my neck is more coarse. For that I generally prefer a more aggressive razor. ATTR1 Shaves my neck probably the best but you have to be very gingerly with it around the face. Lupo 95 also works well

I will try this tomorrow. Might also be a solution for me. Thanks.

 

[something better]

I will try this tomorrow. Might also be a solution for me. Thanks.

I think that’s where the appeal of adjustables comes in. using a higher setting when you’re shaving your neck the lower setting when shaving your face. Unfortunately with the rockwell you have to disassemble the razor. But a lot of people like the merkur progress for this reason

 

[gdawg55]

I also prefer using a steep angle....seems more natural to me. I've had razors that work best with shallow angles and I never seem to gell with them and end up getting rid of them. My best performers all work well with steeper angles. Unfortunately, it's hard to tell sometimes without using a razor to know what angle works best. Some you can tell by the design what the natural angle will be, others, not so much.

Some of the razors i have, or have had, that work well with steeper angles are: Blackbird, Windsor, Henson, Yates, Rocca, 3one6, R41GS, Tech, Super Speed, Aristocrat, Lupo 95, Timeless, H&S P076, and Tatara.

 

[sakaltras]

Some of the razors i have, or have had, that work well with steeper angles are: Blackbird, Windsor, Henson, Yates, Rocca, 3one6, R41GS, Tech, Super Speed, Aristocrat, Lupo 95, Timeless, H&S P076, and Tatara.

Tech? Did you use a shim or something. For me the Tech does not have enough blade exposure for steep shaving. At least that's what I thought so far.