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I have honestly never heard of this before. Where does one go about finding one?Llyn idwal is my smoothest/ most comfortable that is still very sharp.
I have honestly never heard of this before. Where does one go about finding one?Llyn idwal is my smoothest/ most comfortable that is still very sharp.
I have been a member of the forum on and off since 2012 and I must say that this part of the forum is absolutely amazing. Its a real treat to be welcomed amongst you. I appreciate all of the help so far from everyone.You might be surprised at the level of service you can get from members of the community. Ask, and ye shall (maybe) receive. Don't ask, and you won't.
Thank you for the thoroughness of your reply. Regarding reputable vendors - Are they testing out each stone? As in, if I asked them, "I am looking for a stone to give me an extra comfortable edge. What do you have?"
As I am writing this...I feel like that is a lot to ask - LOL.
Griffith's shaving goods carry some Thuris that come from Peter. Again you might have to wait for something you like but are at good price for the quality.I have to admit a certain fear of trying to buy a Thuringian. If there is a trusted source for buying unlabeled Thuringians, I would love to know.
I got mine completely covered in oil and swarf, box crumbling. I thought it was probably an ark. Had to come here to figure out what it is. I'm still not 100% that's actually what the stone is but whatever it is it's awesome for my ivory FWE special and it does weird stuff with knives and pressure.I have honestly never heard of this before. Where does one go about finding one?
In my opinion slurry does not benefit the edge if used on higher grit synthetic finisher. I have tried using slurry on my shaptons and even 0.44 micron slurry on my jnat. The latter was a little better, but the edge was not grate. One way to "tune" a synthetic edge is to find your benchmark for when you have a good edge. Max out the stone you use before you go to the finisher. That can be a 6k, 8k or maybe a coticule. The first time you might do a shave test to see where you are. Then you add what you need from your SG20k or what you chose. Start with 5-10 strokes and test shave. If that is not enough go back.This is reassuring. At this point, I am not necessarily looking for the best possible edge (although I will gladly welcome it). My biggest priority is trying to find something that keeps me in the straight razor game so my face is not in pain all of time.
With cotis and jnats - people rave about the ability to "tune" them with slurry. The stone has the ability to go a broad range. I was wondering if the SG20k has the ability to be "tuned" either by slurry, finish prep, etc.? It would make the cost a little more pallatable.
This is reassuring. At this point, I am not necessarily looking for the best possible edge (although I will gladly welcome it). My biggest priority is trying to find something that keeps me in the straight razor game so my face is not in pain all of time.
With cotis and jnats - people rave about the ability to "tune" them with slurry. The stone has the ability to go a broad range. I was wondering if the SG20k has the ability to be "tuned" either by slurry, finish prep, etc.? It would make the cost a little more pallatable.
It is nice to have a full size SG20K, but you can get a Edgpro version for a fraction of the price.
I have the shapton GS seven 0.44 and 0.85 m. For me the sweet spot is the 0.85. I like to try the SG20K, but i fear it will gather dust as my 0.44 GS does.
The GS Seven 0.85 is a real pleasure to use. It seems to polish better then the 0.44 micron. If i move from the 0.85 to the 0.44 there seems to be some random deeper scratches after the 0.44. It also seems to cut just as well, or better then the 0.85. It is a really nice stone, and should not be compared to the 16k shapton.I am surprised we have not heard more about the Shapton GS 0.85. I would love to try one of these, but I am not sure that I would appreciate its narrow width at 1 7/16 inches / 37 mm.
The GS Seven 0.85 is a real pleasure to use. It seems to polish better then the 0.44 micron. If i move from the 0.85 to the 0.44 there seems to be some random deeper scratches after the 0.44. It also seems to cut just as well, or better then the 0.85. It is a really nice stone, and should not be compared to the 16k shapton.
I prefer smaller stones, especially for the finishing phase. Most of my honing is done with hand held stones.
If i use them as a set i start (if needed) with 3k HR, 6k HR, 1.2 m gs seven followed by the 0.85 seven stone. Even the 6K would be a good starting point if it is just a touchup.
The 6k or the 1.2 gs seven also makes it easy to move to a natural finisher.
I have a couple of thuri's that I got from Peter and they both perform as well as my labeled Eschers, if you want to try one let me know.I have been a member of the forum on and off since 2012 and I must say that this part of the forum is absolutely amazing. Its a real treat to be welcomed amongst you. I appreciate all of the help so far from everyone.
You could get 2 to 4 good razor hones from each full size hone. That would cut the cost down. A full size hone is really not needed, but nice to have.the GS7 size for me is wonderful! i really think it hits the right dimensions for me.
i also feel like i noticed that .85 vs .44 scratch pattern visual recently (over the last 2 months) as I've been playing with them more and trying to sort out how i like them. i don't have the other grits in them, but i've though about cutting down my other stones to that size or so.
I've never bought one direct from Peter, but I've had two or three Thuri Bouts, One was sold to me as a Peter stone, the others were off eBay and I'm almost positive were from him originally (No clue where else one would get a Thuri bout and I'm positive they were Thuri's) and like Frank, they were absolutely escher quality. Either Thuringian just is very very very consistent or Peter is as good at binning it as Escher was.I have a couple of thuri's that I got from Peter and they both perform as well as my labeled Eschers, if you want to try one let me know.
Frank
Slice - This was really thorough. Thank you. With regards to the Arks - what do you mean "demanding during the shave itself"? I am not sure fully understand that.Thuringian.
Nothing exists that's easier & more consistent, and shaves are top notch or at least darn close.
PDSO's and the best Jnats I've used, I compare AGAINST a thuringian, because even if they are a teeny tiny bit better at this or that, the fact that Thuri's are widely known and almost universally consistent (David encountered one with defects that is the lone example I'm aware of) makes them the measuring stick I tend to use for everything else. That's high praise.
BUT, there are a ton of fakes out there and labeled examples cost an arm and a leg.
Stones that might beat one out? (in my opinion)
Arks: a LOT harder to master (and frankly, a little more technique demanding in the shave itself in my experience vs the others listed here)
Jnats: a LOT less consistently good (You basically need to buy a known excellent example, or gamble a LOT)
PDSO: a LOT harder to find
I've got some incredible coti's and while I love em, I think the top end is at best a split decision vs a Thuri.
Can't think of anything else I'd put up there with em.
Frankly I'd probably say the method edge (.1micron paste) would be what I'd recommend before anything after Thuri, Ark, PDSO, or hand-picked Coti/Jnat. There ARE good stones outside that class, but they're either not consistent or just not up to the standard of edge achievable by something as cheap and simple as the method. And that's from someone who doesn't use the method beyond a few shaves to test it.
Would an Atoma 400 work for this?There is no need to "tune" a Gokumyo. Slurry is not going to help a synthetic edge, it will make the edge less refined than using water alone.
Use it as is.
It comes with a rubbing stone - do NOT use it, it makes the stone too aggressive.
Do NOT use w/d sandpaper to dress it or you will have issues. If you need to flatten or dress it, a diamond plate is recommended.
You can remove swarf with a scotch bright pad and water. Alternatively you could use a fine nagura or other fine stone. You could even use the end or edge of the other fine stone to avoid suction.
Use with water only.