Preventing insertion-point weepers?

[GoodShave]

Hey everyone, I was following the 'A Basic Straight Razor Shave' guide in the wiki pages and ran into an issue with the XTG pass:

3.2 Shaving across the grain (XTG)

The text says:
"the only area left on this side of your face that should have lather on it, is ½ of your chin. To shave this area across the grain, change which hand you are holding the razor (to the left hand) and with your right hand, pull the skin in that area taut. Then, simply shave across the grain and across your chin."

So I am right hand dominant and shaving with my left hand at that point (something I have not tried before), shaving the right cheek near the chin, towards the chin.

I am running into insertion point weepers when I start my first stroke with my left hand, I have the wrong angle and/or wrong motion that immediately makes an incision instead of cutting whiskers.

I don't know what I am doing wrong. Should I be leading more with the tip or the toe of the blade? Should I be shaving in more of a diagonal stroke? Should I be laying the razor flatter to my face and gradually raising the razor to discover the correct angle? Maybe I didn't keep the skin tight for the stroke?

I am using a Kai Captain Standard R-Type folding shavette-style razor with a Kai Captain Titan Mild blade.

Thanks in advance for the input!

 

[steveclarkus]

Hey everyone, I was following the 'A Basic Straight Razor Shave' guide in the wiki pages and ran into an issue with the XTG pass:

3.2 Shaving across the grain (XTG)

The text says:
"the only area left on this side of your face that should have lather on it, is ½ of your chin. To shave this area across the grain, change which hand you are holding the razor (to the left hand) and with your right hand, pull the skin in that area taut. Then, simply shave across the grain and across your chin."

So I am right hand dominant and shaving with my left hand at that point (something I have not tried before), shaving the right cheek near the chin, towards the chin.

I am running into insertion point weepers when I start my first stroke with my left hand, I have the wrong angle and/or wrong motion that immediately makes an incision instead of cutting whiskers.

I don't know what I am doing wrong. Should I be leading more with the tip or the toe of the blade? Should I be shaving in more of a diagonal stroke? Should I be laying the razor flatter to my face and gradually raising the razor to discover the correct angle? Maybe I didn't keep the skin tight for the stroke?

I am using a Kai Captain Standard R-Type folding shavette-style razor with a Kai Captain Titan Mild blade.

Thanks in advance for the input!

I am very left handed and I shave one side of my face better than the other but it seems to work out on the second pass because I’ve changed hands. It sounds like you are new at this. You need to understand it is a much self learned thing that you figure out as you go along. Just keep shaving and the way YOU shave will just happen. It just takes time and a lot of repetition but it is well worth the trip.

 

[Frank Shaves]

I am running into insertion point weepers when I start my first stroke with my left hand, I have the wrong angle and/or wrong motion that immediately makes an incision instead of cutting whiskers.

I know what you mean. Thinking of my face and the blade as forming a single plane and then raising the blade helped me.

 

[GoodShave]

After reviewing a few threads and a few videos, I think that I will try starting with the blade about flat and slightly raise it until I find the correct angle. I think it will take time to get as much control with the left hand as I do my right hand. I have read that some people don't bother switching hands but those that do find it easy to get the angles they want. I also read a tip of practicing without a blade to train yourself. So much fun! Thanks!

 

[Darth Scandalous]

I always used to slice the right side of my chin (although with my right hand), one thing that I find helps is starting your stroke a little farther back on your cheek. That way you're already moving and can adjust to the contours of the chin on the fly rather than from a dead stop.

If that's an AC style shavette you could probably load the blade backwards to do a practice run.

 

[APBinNCA]

If that's an AC style shavette you could probably load the blade backwards to do a practice run.

Everybody says the AC is more aggressive than a real straight, but when I started I could run the thing all across my face WITH a blade loaded and not cutting(stretching though). I don't know about a straight, but I find this magic.

 

[Frank Shaves]

You should also try coming in from different approaches, and try using your opposite hand.

 

[Manannan]

I am strongly left handed and have always used just my left hand for shaving with straights (and also kamisori). For me, the learning process has been an individual one (as it is for all who embark in training in this arcane art) as to what works (cuts hairs without nicks) and does does not (nicks without cutting hairs). I use some unusual holds which work for me, including blade and scales in a straight line, holding more like a long-handled kamisori. Every cut/nick is a part of your personal journey.

 

[SilverGeezer]

Don't set the blade on your skin then start moving it. Come in like you're landing a plane. Slow movement, but keep the blade moving and it won't sink in.

 

[GoodShave]

Don't set the blade on your skin then start moving it. Come in like you're landing a plane. Slow movement, but keep the blade moving and it won't sink in.

I will definitely give that a try. Thanks everyone for these great ideas!

 

[Dominic]

I will definitely give that a try. Thanks everyone for these great ideas!

Two people have said have the blade moving before you get to your chin. I will third that. I watched the Chimensch video (several times) and noticed the move to shave XTG on the top lip was to star out on the cheek and move in. It worked much better than trying to just start at the lip. When I shave the chin XTG, it’s part of my pass from ear toward chin.

 

[StillShaving]

Is the question more about a specific point on the face? Around the chin?

While I think a little momentum is important, I believe a light touch is the most important. Keeping the razor in contact with the skin but having practically no downward pressure and keeping the angle as flat as possible. I find my chin is most difficult area to shave closely, requiring that the skin be stretched up/down and then diagonally for different passes. It is the area I am mostly like to nick myself.