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SOTD- sheng of the day

The main thermos of the week was this: The King's Seal Raw Pu-erh Tea - https://www.banateacompany.com/product334.html As I've had the gongfu, I'll discuss with the gongfu.

The shu of Friday was finishing off the YS '19 Bawang. I leafed it hard. It's an okay shu, but it was just not very interesting to me, and doesn't really generate a lot of feeling of comfort--yeah I know, BA-WaaAAAAAAaannggg! I did leaf this hard to finish off the sample. Doesn't really have much qi, and concentrated taste does punch hard. As can be inferred, there is not much complexity in taste or aroma, it's a by-the-numbers grade 2 shu that's professionally done. Most people would be better off finding a way to get a good Dayi Dragon Pole shu. It probably will settle down, and maybe get a touch more plummy with a few more years.

The first tea of the long weekend was the Yiwu Tea Mountain Yangjiazhai. I was expecting a better session than I got, so I put this sample off more towards the end in anticipation of a good session. It wasn't as luxuriantly floral as I expected, didn't have a strong and broad base, and has a serious problem with not the best bitterness. It wasn't awful or anything, but it wasn't what I really expected. Maybe that was why the sample was so cheap for the cost of the cake or something.

Aroma is pretty dynamic. It does have a bit of savory florals through much of the session where aroma was a factor. Many brews had a dark aspect in the aroma, like some barnyard, or wild honey-root herbal. Occasionally, wood or fruit is there. The taste isn't particularly mushroom, barnyard, or regular honey based like what the thermos suggested. Instead it's more of a wild honey core with a bitterness. Savory florals and barnyard are factors in the early going. Later on, brews on the weaker side gets a sort of sweet grains main taste and more stronger brews gets back a thin wild honey taste, both usually with an aggressive bitterness that reaches at the tongueroots and a bit of wood. Some brews have a bit of sensate sweetness. Some brews also reveal a fruity taste as soup cools, tho' that might be yiwu huigan. This tea does do a good job with mouthfeel, with the proviso that drying finish does rises for a time to pretty strong at a point. It's thick viscosity with an off and on velvet texture. The aftertaste game isn't strong, particularly as the bitterness doesn't really contribute much. There is usually a light mouthcoat and some light yiwu huigan, both to fruit. The thermos had some yiwu huigan to caramels that did not happen in the session... The qi is moderate to strong of no particular distinction.

The main issue is that the bitterness is pretty intrusive, and it doesn't really give a good aftertaste game as per its premium cost should suggest, so by later brews I was bored with it and hurting.

I felt like I wanted another tea Saturday, so I pulled out the XZH '10 Hungshan, identified as Manlin Manzhuan tea by Sanhetang. This was just very easily better than any YTM gushu. This session was a bit weird in the sense that it was very much like a broad-leaf version of northern small leaf teas that generates lots of powder aroma, like that '10 YS Xikong or the '16 XZH Return of the King.

Aroma is extremely durable, a factor in the brews at least past twelve brews, dominated by sweetness and powder floral. There are honey-grains, fruity, barnyard playing a role from time to time, depending on brew. Taste is your usual Manzhaun behavior but thinner tasting and more delicate with a good helping of powder florals. I had to manage a bitter-tart core so it doesn't become overwhelming, and it becomes a nice anchor for the whole taste experience, lending a sense of substance to the whole fairy food nature of this tea. Moderate-good viscosity with not much drying astringency, so can feel very smooth start to finish. Good cooling feel, some feeling at top of throat. Strong mouthcoat game, with occasional fruity yuns and yiwu huigan to caramel. The qi is moderate to strong, very calming, and quite noticeably durable. Where in most of these teas, the feeling of qi fades in late brews, the qi is still going the way that aroma is still going. This is just a very durable tea in important ways. I probably drank more than sixteen brews over two days.

To be fair about this tea's superiority to recent teas, it's a decade older than the other teas. Settled down to what it's good at.

Sunday's tea was the YTM '20 QCBZ Yiwu Gushu QCBZ - 2020 Spring Gushu (200g cake) | yiwumountaintea - https://www.yiwumountaintea.com/product-page/yiwu-gushu-7c8z-2020-spring-gushu-200g-cake . My general reaction is that there is some obvious similarities to the Bohetang huangpian, and of being blended with inferior and complementary yiwus, so I just envisioned it as Bohetang and the Step-Sisters. The primary difference from the BHT huangpian, besides the huangpian part, is that it's not very sweet nutmeat in general. I liked it, but as the stepsisters thing might hint, I was left with the small bht part trying to play all of the roles of the band, a little too soon. So this tea gets boring well earlier than it should, and never has the sort of aftertaste game it really should have. Also, while the qi starts off strong, it becomes weak and unremarkable late in the session, and rest doesn't revive it.

The aroma was softly green vegetal with sweet mushroom and floral aspects, fruit showing up here and there. The aroma does get vague very quickly--starts getting so around brew five and degenerating from after brew seven. Late brews brewed hard will get some indistinct honeyish aroma back. The taste is pretty consistently sweet mushroom. Early brews has some savory florals. Wild honey with bitter-tcm becomes a consistent partner of the mushroom most of the session, but not too deep tasting. In later brews, the bitter-tcm fades, and more fruit notes shows up and the taste is pretty consistent high wild honey, mushroom with something else like fruit. The mouthfeel is great and has something of the feeling of the BHT huangpian. It's thick with a seriously creamy feeling. There is some drying astringency that gets higher in a few brews. Viscosity does decline, especially without firm brewing. Can generate feeling at top of throat. While the aftertaste game isn't super-great (especially in the sense that it's not super-loud), it is pretty decent, especially early. There are good fruity mouthcoats, good yiwu huigans to both fruit and caramel, and some yuns. There are some shallow pungent huigans in a couple of brews, and one brew has a nice tonguecoat. Mouthcoats and the tonguecoat tends to be dynamic with complex flavors in sequence. The qi is strong early and fades to a light qi late. The mouthfeel goes on forever, only thinning some. However, most other positive qualities fail to stand out after maybe seven or eight brews. The nice qualities of this tea isn't really as durable as I'd like something this expensive to be.

So that's Yiwu Mountain Tea. I probably wouldn't pay for any more of their teas, tho' I'll have a couple more teas, including the '19 Tianmenshan that prompted my friend and I to take this outfit seriously later on. Their teas are usually about fifty bucks too expensive per cake. The overall best sample from them is the '12 Chawangshu, particularly in the long and late brews. I thought the '19 Yishanmo is pretty passably good for the money. I also think the '20 BHT huangpian is also good for the money, depending on how you tolerate huangpian. The '20 Laos is a bad deal, particularly for the novice.

It is just really hard for anyone to *get* high end gushu teas these days, and people who want good gushu needs to find older teas that refuse to appreciate in value before people start thinking that the latest overpriced Dayi is definitely overpriced.

So, we're on the topic of newer high end gushu? Never fear, I have a legit one here! Vesper Chan's 2020 The King's Seal LaoBanzhang. Of course, this tea is four dollars a gram, at least for the samples. The cakes (500g and 100g sampler for 600g total) were something like $2.2k in the nanosecond it took for both cakes that Linda Louie stock to be bought. Remember, this is LBZ, there's a LOT of this compared to most other places (and of course, tons of demand such that most people get crap). Realistically, all the legit good examples of gushu from good places are now probably around three dollars a gram, at least. That's why I'm favor of the general W2T ethos of being specific--allows for focus on quality rather than, say YS posting 2020 Baihuatang at $120/250g that's totally impossible.

The thermos was interesting, particularly with the Theasophie '16 kept in mind. The character was consistent over both pours of the thermos if I remember right. The main taste was mushroom and barnyard with a sweet pineapple nature lurking underneath and not green in the way of many fresh teas. I thought the taste was kind of small. Fairly Menghai aroma, on the deeper barnyard side, with some alkaline. I noted that this had a lot of astringency conversion to flavors, and it had yuns. Mouthcoats were dynamic. A minor bit of mouth aroma. Qi was strong. It was a bit aggressive to the stomach. At that time, I felt that this tea wasn't worthy of the high price tag, because I didn't feel blown away by this tea, like, say, the Yehgu.

I appreciated this tea more in a gongfu session. The tea didn't feel as small, and the aftertaste had more of a chance to sell me on the complexity of sensation. Strong and enveloping qi. Obvious caffeine boost. In trying to rank this tea by previous teas, this tea would indeed beat most teas (and shaming the very similar Theasophie). It wouldn't beat some of the best of the older XZH or YQH, and it wouldn't beat, say the '14 XZH Hongyin/a/b/iron, but come even with '14 Lanyin, and be better than the Luyin. Likewise with YQH Yehgu, 18 trees, Shengyun, 888, etc. But this would beat, for example the '19 XZH Hongyin Grade A that's $500/400g pretty easily. So, like while it's outrageously expensive at more than $2k/600g, it can justify the cost to some degree. I may well prefer the '07 CYH 200g for the same price, though, but tough thinking.

Aroma in early brews are barnyard, menghai mushroom, menghai honey, and some alkaline nature. This simplifies towards more savory nature and exclusively barnyard. A late brew after a rest yielded a nice fleshy floral aroma (but I was reminded to check for gardenia, so that might be suggestion, or might have missed earlier). The taste is consistently delivering a sense of sweetness through most of the session. Embedded in that underlying honey sensibility is deep barnyard, wood, tobacco, choco early. In later brews, it's more of a bitter-tcm, alkaline, and barnyard with the bitter-tcm fading more of an herbal taste (if not brewed firmly) as the brews go on. The viscosity starts off moderate, but then builds to a nice thickness with a juicy texture. There is not actually much drying astringency, so that aftertaste game from said astringency is very efficient. There is a degree of cooling and some feeling going down the throat a bit. The aftertaste game dominated by complex and dynamic yiwu huigan/mouthcoats to mostly fruits and some caramel. There are some fruity yuns and a pungent huigan early. The most impressive aftertastes are very early and weakens by the fourth brews so maybe not throw out that wash brew? The aftertaste does go on deep into the session, but as subtle complements to the main taste. Late aftertastes often includes some interesting floral mouth aroma, one of which is nicely spicy. The qi is strong and fairly enveloping of the body with an energizing feeling.

this pot's going to the fridge.

And that was my long weekend...
 
I'm on vacation these days, so probably more posts for a while...

The first tea of the day was the 2020 W2T Astro Red, the hongcha version of Astro Kittens and which is outrageously expensive at $169/200g. Do I wish I could afford it? Yeah, it's definitely worth having, but opportunity costs for me are very high. It is, though, a hongcha actually on the level of the XZH '09, '11 Jade Dew that I have, and it's sort of similar to the '11.

Aroma is generally a woody-plummy one, sometime a deep, almost choco plummy, and there are occasional nuances of florals, barnyard, etc. The taste is generally woody, deep plummy, and that hongcha note, particularly early with a relative strong sour plumminess. The stronger early sourness in the taste is the primary defect for me, but it fades out after some brews. There is also a bitterness. I don't really mind this bitterness as that it's flavorful, and makes the wood more substantial, and adds a floralness to it, maybe mouth aroma. This bitterness doesn't really bite all the way down that hard, so it's more of a taste rather than a pain. The mouthfeel is generally rather good, with moderate to good viscosity and a tender texture, and late brews have thicker viscosity. Not much drying astringency. This does some cooling in the mouth and throat. It can also do this black pepper feeling at the top of the throat. Primary aftertastes are yiwu huigan to caramel and floral mouth aromas. The qi is strong with no decisive character to it. Durability is very good compared to the average hongcha, and it maintains more complex brews on the early side and keeps a thick taste on the later side of the session. This isn't dynamic, but there is stuff going on in the cup in the broadly same framework.

I did a western brew yesterday, and that didn't seem to have done this tea much favor. Tastes like most other plummy slightly fruity hongcha, but has that pepper feel in the throat and strong qi. The mouthfeel also still is high quality.

I finished up the King's Seal LBZ. Very durable, enjoyable, and pretty much exactly is why LBZ is the premier Menghai county puerh. It has a bit of Bulang depth, Menghai honey, Mengsong floralness.

Did the 2003 W2T Nuoxiang shu. I have similar looking bricks that Paul Murray of W2T gave me long ago, that he said were companion to the 2002 White Whale, and I wondered if these were similar. Well, they sort of looked similar, but aren't similar teas. The tea I have had is something close to a 7581, and this Nuoxiang is a relatively thin tasting (with a marshmellow like sweetness) shu with a decent mouthfeel and some qi. Definitely not a bad tea and I will certainly drink this up, but the aroma and taste aren't to my preference. I like a number of thin tasting light fermentation shu, but this has a balance of sweet and funky herbalness that isn't that enticing to me.
 
Some day I'll be able to set my water boiler back up and start drinking all the bings I put away almost a decade ago.

I've got a small tea chest full of 2007-2012 raw's I haven't looked at since 2013.
 
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I've always fantasized about being too busy to drink good tea for a few years and coming back to my stash fresh and curious about how things have gone.

I forgot to mention that I did a thermos of W2T Biscuit on Wednesday. This is essentially a very sweet Menghai-ish tea, and feels very much like the good stuff in the 2019 Both Steals Both and Meet Each Other Halfway (yeah, I remember the full name, now that it's truncated at W2T). It had some qi and was generally enjoyable. I did feel that it verged on insipid and could use some bitter depth or some savory to balance. There is also a slight issue with problematic sourness. Be a while before before I get to the gongfu, lots of samples to go through and drink some of my own tea while I'm off...

The first tea today was the 2016 W2T The Treachery of Storytelling Pt 2. I'm going on an lbz bender for now. This isn't LBZ. The session was very much like the '07 XZH LongFeng, except higher and sweeter, and a little bit like the 2006 2nd Southeast Memorial cake that Houde used to sell. There is also some similarity to the XZH '06 Menghai Nu'ercha Brick. So my inclination is that it's a banzhang area blend, probably with a little bit of LBZ thrown in, but with mostly Pasha/Hekai (or Pasha-like, Hekai-like banzhang area teas) material in it.

The aroma most of the session is some variation of wood, floral, high barnyard, and with an underlying mushroom base. There can be mineral or herbal accents. The late brews can have a nice subtle woody aroma. The taste starts off high and sweet nutmeat focused with wood, herbalness, plumminess as complements. Then it dives deep with a couple bitter-tcm brews. Sweet tobacco becomes a regular feature of the taste. Barnyard, plumminess, and menghai honey while it's deep, and as it rises and loses bitterness, it's more of a consistent plummyness, tobacco and menghai honey. There is a bit of tartness associated with the deeper tobacco taste, and more evident as it cools. Late brews are generally tobacco, menghai honey, and a light underlying mushroom. The mouthfeel is pretty good, with moderate to good viscosity and a pudding texture to it. Drying astringency is light at the beginning, rises a bit, and fades, so not much of an issue, but there is little conversion to aftertastes. The biggest qualitative difference between this and the King's Seal is the lack of a strong yiwu huigan from astringency conversion. There is a little, but it only pops up here and there, probably only when I've accidentally brew a bit firmer. The more regular early aftertaste feature is a sort of light mouthcoat, and a bit of a yun or very shallow pungent huigan. There is some cooling and a bit of feeling at the top of the throat. The qi is strong in the beginning of the session, levels off and declines to a more moderate level by the end, and doesn't revive after a rest.

I thought alot about this tea's comparison to the King's Seal, and thought about the differences in gushu-ness. It also made me think of the YTM '20 top tea--it feels like the same blending philosophy, but Treachery's best material has more help from its complementary components than QCBZ does. It reinforces my impression that a high end aftertaste game cannot be cultivated for, in the way that thick viscosity or qi could, and the compromises are most evident by the comparative weakness of aftertaste for both Treachery and QCBZ compared to the legit stuff. One other thing that I'm feeling is that qi, and the quality of it, is also pretty steady--the 2010 XZH Hungshan had really great quality qi deep into the session and which maintained its strength. The King's Seal also did that, to a lesser extent, but aging may be a factor for this sort of thing, so might not be fair to judge younger teas for this. Treachery is still a rather good tea, overall, and it is still better than the Theasophie 2016 LBZ, which is legit, but very flat. That tea does have a consistent and evident yiwu huigan, the native LBZ taste, and a thicker soup. But it's not as complex, dynamic, or worthwhile durable in the way Treachery is. Treachery's qi is also better quality.

The second tea for the day was the 2020 W2T Horsegirl Clique honcha in a gongfu session. I enjoyed it alot. Relatively similar to Astro Red, but very much a poor man's version. Bitterness doesn't play a forefront role, of course, and it's much weaker in feeling, and in aftertastes. These Menghai hongchapus are much more to my taste than something like WCCCTV. I sort of had an unstated hope that this would be like the Mengsong teaclub hongcha I liked so much, but if Horsegirl is like it in some way, it's hidden.

One thing that really annoys me these days is that honchapu and shupu both needs about three years. For stuff that's supposed to be ready to drink, compared to sheng, it's a bit frustrating that one knows one has to wait a bit before a reasonable peak as the tea sets and cured like concrete.

hongcha malt, plummy, a bit fruity in aroma. There can be a choco-vegetal nature, where the vegetal is string-bean-ish in aroma and taste, and most evident from the wet leaf aroma. The taste is a deep plummy choco character with a slight bitterness that carries a wood-floral nature. There is a fruitiness that becomes more obvious in later brews as the taste rises. A bit of hongchapu tartness. Good viscosity, relatively smooth texture. A bit of feeling in throat early. There are hints of mouthcoat, yun early on, and a hint of yiwu huigan to sugars later on. The qi tends toward strong, thinking there is a caffeine boost. Reasonably durable.

This tea was what I was looking for when I bought it--have been asking Paul to put a darker hongchapu, when he's done herbacious florals, fruity hongchapu, with A&P being the only cake with any depth--so I'm pretty happy with this tea, and anticipate good western brews.
 
Yeah, I'm looking forward to it. I had a mini little tea chest filled with it that's made out of what feels like thick balsa wood... so I'm hoping there was sufficient aeration on the beengs. We will soon see.
 
A couple more banzhang area teas today.

The first tea was a disappointment, the 2010 ChenShenHao 200g LBZ brick. This is supposed to be one of CSH's best LBZ, along with the 2009 brick, but it's not really a very enjoyable tea, especially given how expensive this tea can get--kingteamall wants $1.6k for it, and I believe the brick is going for about $400 on FB auctions.

First part of the session has aroma that is mostly menghai mushroom, menghai honey, and walnuts. There can be a bit of herbal woodiness. Aroma isn't particularly strong. The latter part of the session is generally a pleasant light masculine herbal woodiness. The taste in the first couple of brews are pleasant, with the wash being high barnyard and plummy, and the second brew getting pleasantly deep barnyard, cola, with a nice aromatic wood fringe as well as characteristic bitterness. A pleasant walnut sweetness that might be yiwu huigan late in cup. Then we have a few brews in a row of deep, tart, tobacco almost like licorice that isn't sweet, with barnyard and a bit of an aromatic wood fringe. When the depth starts rising to a more mellow and very pleasant mushroom, herbal, woody taste with just a bit of bitter, tart tobacco depth, the taste is hollow rather than full. This has moderate to good viscosity through most of the session and gets thick late. There is a softness to the texture. However, this tea has strong astringency that isn't very productive. This astringency has little conversion to sweet flavors like sweet nutmeat for yiwu huigan, and is most evident late in the session. There is a bit of mouthcoat here and there. The qi is generally about moderate and is caffeine-punchy--not that high of a quality. I didn't push this tea too much in terms of durability, I had better things to drink than hollow soups.

This sort of session just reminds me of how much the Mainland market is simply geared to rip Chinese people off. Lao Banzhang is what it is because it represents the best of what Menghai tea has to offer. And part of that is a nicely balanced sweetness, refinement, and soberness. This tea doesn't have much sweet flavor, and while it does have a nice refined woodiness, everything is out of whack from an overbearing deep and tart tobacco (which is more characteristic of broader banzhang area tea). And nothing actually settles together so that the tobacco moderates some in later brews and be balanced by this tea's better traits. It just goes poof, almost, and become a note, rather than a core rod like the bitter tcms of other good teas. Heh, reminds me of bad sessions of the Black Wrapper or the '08 XZH lbz that doesn't really have enough core density of taste. Another pair of issues is that it's really astringent, and the aftertaste game sucks for a premium Menghai. This combination for a ten years old tea doesn't give me much hope for future improvement. It'll be like that '98 Menghai Wild in another decade, still with way too much astringency and not enough goodness to balance. And of course, the qi isn't as strong as more legit lbz teas are, and it's not particularly high quality.

At times like these, I think that the serious Mainland brands are all deliberately obscured from public view, as a secrecy cachet.

The second tea of the day was the '07 XZH LongFeng. I tend to have up and down feelings about this tea, fairly similar to the '07 YQH Qizhong--it can have a lot of deep taste without much sweetness or refinement in many session, but when this tea does have sweet flavors (strong plummy), it's really good. There wasn't much plumminess in this session, but with recent context, I still managed to enjoy a lot of this tea.

Part of the reason why I enjoyed it was that it had a really good, complex, if light aroma much of the way through the session. Retired smoke, honey usually, with tobacco often, and occassional barnyard, mushroom, sweet walnut. Some plummy and woody accents late. The taste has a similar deep tart tobacco as the CSH, with retired smoke, wood, plumminess. Starts off light and higher, goes deep, and gradually rises up, emphasizing more plummy and wood notes and less retired smoke late. The viscosity isn't great, can be on the thin side of moderate, with a smooth texture and very little astringency. A couple of brews have a feeling of energy in the mouth, cooling, and some good feeling at top of throat. The aftertastes are pretty decent--plenty of yiwu huigan from what astringency there is, to sweet walnut, a lot of shallow pungent huigan, and one brew had a very nice floral aroma rising from the throat. The qi was about moderate of really good quality. Think of those commercials for skin care products where you see dry cracked skin, and then you see ointment put on them and an illustration of how the ointment fills those jagged cracks and heals it up? That's how I felt on the inside of my awareness--qi seeping into the cracks of my being, and being lubricating/soothing and joining up to feel more whole and integral. This is definitely stuff where one might drink for the qi. I didn't really have enough time to drink past about thirteen brews, where it was still doing well, so I put it in the fridge, and maybe have a couple more before throwing it out tomorrow.
 
As the Lao Banzhang Turns...

Today was the 2018 ChenShenHao LBZ. How was it? It is more palatable than the 2010 CSH, being sweeter, less astringent. However, it's also generally less potent. It does have a stronger aroma, but that may be because of age and storage differences. Broadly speaking, ChenShenHao LBZ aren't really worth the money people ask for them. Okay-good teas, though.

Aroma in the very earliest brews are alkaline, menghai honey, and barnyard. As the session goes on, it becomes less sweet and more menghai mushroom, with a bit of yellow fruitiness. The taste is very consistently menghai honey throughout the session. A couple of brews in the early session gets deep with that tart tobacco depth with a bit of herbal (and a very little bit of woody) detail. There is a bit of bitterness. After that, there is a process of the depth rising with diminishing tobacco towards menghai honey and maybe a bit of mushroom/herbalness as well. The viscosity is generally good to thick, with a pudding texture. There is a bit of drying astringency, but not nearly as much as the 2010. The aftertastes are very weak, just a bit of mouthcoat, mostly. There is a little bit of cooling and feeling at the top of the throat. Qi is generally mild, but is of a bit better quality than the 2010 because it doesn't punch quite like that tea's qi. I suppose the durability is okay, but I probably only did about ten brews because the late brews were fairly boring teas drunk quickly.

I got to feeling a bit more impressed with Nada's early effort at Essence of Tea relative to what passes for high end LBZ with Chenshenghao. Thought a bit about his 2011 Douyizhai Nannuo. It's sort of boring, too, and the viscosity isn't as nice as the CSH, but it's richer and sweeter in it's depth.

The second new tea of the day was the 2012 Yibang Brick from Yiwu Tea Mountain. To put this short--this is okay material that has had some humidity, so there is a maturity in the taste beyond it's dry stored years. Or, in other words, no way no how is this tea worth $342/250g! If you want a nice Yibang, well, Essence of Tea will sell you one with way better Yibang material for less per gram, even if it's not as mature tasting. If you want one with aged feeling, just go to Taobao and getcherself a midnaughts Changtai Yibang/Gedeng, or perhaps a 2001 Dingxing that EoT used to sell. These options will probably be dirtier than what is a relatively cleanly stored 2012. And let's not forget the cheap options for Yibang/Gedeng/Xikong at TeaUrchin!

There is little dynamcism in this tea and not much complexity, so this can be described pretty quickly. Aroma and taste is a dark herbal woodiness with some funkyness that fades, rises, and thins to a sweeter taste with more honey notes. Second cup has nice coffee tones. Touch of sourness here and there in taste in early brews. Moderate to good viscosity with a little drying astringency early. Aftertastes aren't too bad, particularly early. Decent if subtle yiwu huigan to sugars, and a bit of fruity mouthcoat that can linger a bit after the cup is finished. A bit of a yun. Qi is moderate to strong and of qood quality early, and fades quickly as the session goes on. I only did about seven brews because the tea was fading pretty quickly.

And because I wanted to get back to more brews of XZH LongFeng. And I enjoyed a bunch more brews. Strong flavors, some aftertastes, and good qi for at least six more brews, so probably about twenty brews over two days.
 
Another day, another Banzhang...

I had the XZH '06 Black Taiji today, and this was one of the good days. Has the best aftertaste game of any LBZ that I know of. Not a first pick tea, and has key weaknesses relative to other lbz in thickness of taste and viscosity.

The aroma was relatively dynamic over the session, but it was a bit weaker than usual. Goes black walnut, honey, wood->wood, choco, black pepper->wood, choco->wood, walnut->and then a more consistent generic old pu herbal nature. The taste is a bit thin and high for an lbz. Early part of the session has choco, wood, and a bit of tart tobacco depth. Then it moves up to more of a wood and sweetness such as honey or black walnut. Late infusions are more of a honey base with herbal, wood, walnut, coffee, root herbal, sugarcane tangy aspects, again in the fashion of older puerh. The viscosity is thin to moderate and better as the session moves on. Early texture was grainy in an interesting way, before moving on to a more stiff and plump feeling. Drying astringency varies a bit, but it's also obvious and interesting in the way that it melts in the mouth. Feeling goes down throat nicely and consistently. As with the '14 XZH Lanyin, the aftertaste game is intense and tiring, with every type represented through about seven brews. The pungent huigans are always the most exciting, with feeling going down the throat, feeling coming up, and flavors out the top like throat's a volcano. Yuns were really great, and wine-like. There were floral mouth aroma, and lots and lots of drying astringency melting into a sweet huigan of black walnut ice cream. Mouthcoats did happen, but they were overshadowed by everything else going on, and they didn't last past the cup much. The qi was great. It was strong and it was very expansive feeling, to the point that I felt like a hot air ballon trying to float above my chair. it faded some by the time I stopped, to a mere moderate-strong that's relaxing. I only did about eleven or twelve brews before putting it back in the fridge. Tummy wasn't in a great mood, and I was tired from the early pyrotechnics, even as I enjoyed them.

I did do a second tea, rationalizing that it'd be quick, 'cause I just wanted a bit of a tutorial. This was on the 2019 Fall Yiwu Tea Mountain Gaoshan, with just seven brews before dumping. It's a pretty standard version of a familiar version of Gaoshan that I've encountered before in mid-naught BYH and Hengrunfeng yiwus. The price of about $100/200g isn't entirely unreasonable, but the flip side is that there's a ton of decent yiwu at that price point, most notable from TeaUrchin.

There's not a lot of dynamicism in the aroma--first couple of brews are high with mushroom, honey, and barnyard, and then it gets down low with the traditional Gaoshan dark herbal and fruity nature, and fades through the session while keep the same theme. The taste is also pretty consistent, and keeps strength better, being dark herbal, mushroom, a sweetness from honey that's not obvious, barnyard, and root herbal. Last brew was more barnyard. Viscosity was medium to good, of no particular nature in texture. There is a bit of drying astringency. A touch of yiwu huigan to honey, and I've caught a mouth coat that lingered past the empty cup. Mild qi that's a bit sneaky, and which fades as the session goes on. Durability wasn't tested, just wanted to see what it was like. I have like two spring Gaoshans to give more attention to when I get to them.
 
Today, I finished up the Taiji, about 7-8 more brews, so this tea didn't really make 20 brews. I could have brewed a few more, but it was very tired by the time I stopped. Some good qi until close to the end.

Before that, I tried out the 2020 Yiwu Tea Mountain Xiangchunlin. I was directly comparing this to my memory of the Yishanmo '19 as they're from the same region and are supposed to be similar teas, except that the Xiangchunlin is supposed to be more refined and delicate. Broadly I'd say that this is true, but I'd also say that I sort of enjoyed this less than the Yishanmo, mainly on account that the qi is not of such good quality. The tea isn't as gushu as I'd like and the tummy was a bit too grouchy for the youth.

The aroma was rather interesting in that it had a sweetly floral character rather similar to classical yiwu like LuoShuiDong. This didn't change much and only lasted the first five or so brews. The taste had a consistent pronounced tendency to change a bit as the soup cooled. High wild honey, mushroom in sweet taste, more fruity as soup cools->mushroom, high barnyard, when soup cools, wild honey, then standard honey taste->wild honey back, barnyard, cools to a more bitter taste->wild honey, mushroom, resin-florals, more choco as soup cools-> wild honey bitter tcm, and then the flavor starts thinning without serious firmness. I forgot a brew, and came back to it with serious green harshness and so went, eh, it's not *that* gushu...There was a lot of nice resin floral in that harness, tho'. The viscosity wavers between moderate and moderate-good, with some drying astringency. The aftertaste game is somewhat weak, but varied--the best bit is a nice, if light, floral mouth aroma. There are a few lightly flavored mouthcoat, some light yiwu huigan to fruitiness, fruity yun, and one cup had a subtle-shallow pungent huigan. The qi starts off strong, but it weakens pretty quickly, and at no point was there a distinct quality to it, and the quality is not as good as what one gets from the Yishanmo. The durability was not seriously tested, about thirteen, fourteen brews.

This tea, again, is a fairly delicate tea with not a ton of meat on the core bones--the wild honey or the mushroom, or the barnyard was never dominant and there was some bamboo flute refinement going on. So, eh, I think some people will like it. As usual with YTM, this is at least fifty bucks overpriced, and I have a serious problem with a tea like this being sold loose. Whatever might be the case with how gushu it is, this clearly needs some aging, and I'd rather it be in a cake form for that. That aroma ain't going to stick to the leaves all loose by itself, you know!

Another reminder--we're way beyond the age of "gushu", particularly for any $name place. it's all about cultivation practices for that thick viscosity and your basic qi, and gushu processing for the leaves. It takes a ton of money to buy any new thing that's real today. So grab the older legit stuff when you can!

The ages:
Hobby gushu productions--1994-1997 People are discovery puerh production in general, hooking up with local leaders, and putting to get club runs, like Dengshihai's Nannuo and Jingmai runs, and the Zhenchunyahao. Tony Chen did a couple like these in 1997 and 2001.

Special product lines with explicit good material, generally factory style--1999-2003. People are interested in organic tea, teas like those from historical times, and old traditions. You have your Bok Choy LBZ, the Big Green Trees, 1999 XG Discuss, 1999 Changtai yiwu pressings, HeShiHua Jingmai, JinDayi, etc.

Your first gushu brands--2003-2006. Wistaria, Sanhetang, Yangqinghao, Heshinghao, Chenyuanhao, 12 Gentlemen, so forth. Creativity in sourcing and blending, fairly random process overall. Many of the Yiwus during this time were overoxidized for quick palatability.

The puerh crash and nova era--2007-2009. Mainland gushu brands start up, like Chenshenghao, Taiwanese brands really start getting on a roll, processing becomes more steady and predictable. Bulk of great gushu most people are familiar with produced around this time.

The consolidation era-2010-2013. Puerh is a thing, but it was really steady during this time, with gradual entry of new players, and gushu teas becoming harder to get in good quality and quantity. Dayi teas are just expensive and the impact of Dayi investment attitude is only just beginning to modernize. "Gushu" puerh cultivation and processing skills take off.

Gushu blowout era-2014-2016. Taiwanese vendors start to bow out of trivially doing super high end stuff, and the truly good stuff gets enormously expensive, but still sold.

and this current era, post 2016 or so, most vendors can only do a few serious puerhs at a time. If someone like YS is doing all this other stuff, and doing some "baihuatang", well...Baihuatang is a microregion, and there isn't that much of it, and, well, pretty much close to all of it is reserved for rich people. What are the chances that it would be a good tea at $125/250? You probably drinking Lucky Huang's Shengtai BHT, or maybe something from a stand further away from BHT that's really not that good... Same with "Mansong", etc. And these teas are generally far more expensive than buying higher quality and more enjoyable Wuliang, even though there is a reason why Wuliang is cheaper most of the time. Legit good Wuliang is much better than whatever weak Mansa someone can come up with without having to get/fight in line.

One must have a sense of perspective.
 
It was my birthday so I treated myself to some YQH '12 Yehgu. It was really good and very intense. At this point, I am realizing that the Yehgu is rather erratic when it comes to flavor and aroma from session to session, but a bit like the XZH Youle, it's usually as good however it comes.

The aroma was not very plummy as it had been the previous couple of sessions, and there was very little of that nice savory florals as well. The aroma was generally wood and herbal, and it can have a sweet base of honey or sugars. The taste featured the return of the sweet herbals that I remember from sampling the tea. There was also a nice aromatic wood feature, and the ever present deep bitter and tart choco. Later brews that happen to not have been firmly brewed tended to have a sugars taste that's more like creme-brule rather than caramel or some other burnt/processed sugar. There were mineral and fruit tones late as well The viscosity was generally good to thick, and some later brews had a nice runny-honey texture to it. There is a moderate level of drying astringency. The feeling and aftertaste game is intense, complex, and tiring. Let's just say it does everything at high volume. I did like the very strong feeling it generated in my throat, and I did like the strong creme-brule sugars from the yiwu-huigan/mouthcoat. Unlike previous sessions, the aftertaste did not feature much fruity mouthcoats. The qi is basically as previous session, strong, active and a bit weird. I would up taking a very long time to drink eleven or so brews that I did not really push what it could have delivered and put the pot in the fridge.
 
2013 Biyun Hao Mahei. Need to try this one again, but wasn't overly impressed by the quality. The material had more twigs than I was expecting. There was some qi, but not deeply penetrating.

Thank you for your recent posts, shah8, and happy birthday.
 
Yesterday was a so-called 2017 Mansong young tree from Yiwu Tea Mountain. It's a pretty standard yibang experience with some dry florals in the aroma, a tarry-honey depth that's found in the taste of many aged yibangs. average mouthfeel, somewhat astringent in the early going. A bit of qi. As with the 2012 Yibang brick, a somewhat outrageously poor value. From these guys, one probably is best to stick with the broad-leaf Yiwus, it seems like.

I did a few more YehGu brews.

Today, I did the 2020 Yiwu Tea Mountain Tianmenshan. It's alright, but it's further below the EoT TMS than the $56 difference in cost would imply. This is a much more palatable TMS, though. Anyways, the aroma and taste is dominated by caramel with herbal or spicey vegetal fringes. Both are relatively strong in effect but flat. There is relatively little detail or nuance or dimensionality with the aroma or taste. The viscosity is moderate, but can feel a little thin when the soup is cool. Not too much drying astringency. The aftertastes have little potency, so not really worth mentioning. The qi is mild-moderate with that positive tilt. I've gotta wonder if Tianmenshan tea is a distinct c.s.a varietal.

The overall effect is like a pleasant Rougui that you buy loose from a sort of specialist shop, but not too high end. This is pleasant and very sweet, but like a 30cents/g Rougui--not really much of a yanyun or anything that truly makes a Rougui special.

I finished off the YehGu. I noted that Yehgu and XZH Fengshabao are cousins, Yehgu being more refined. I did another examination of the leaves. I still don't see but two materials. I wound up having three piles, one set of darker green leaves with a anthrocyanin tint that is twisted rolled. one set of lighter green leaves with lots of fur on the back with many smaller leaves and tips, the bigger leaves more folded rather than twisted. And one set of stemmy debris. I looked at Marco's picture again, and I don't really see a third set, just a mishmash of stems and unsorted leaves.

I needed a genuinely nice tea today, so I took out some 2009 XZH Yinzhen. It was pretty nice, taste was not too complex but there was a nuance and depth to the taste sensation that didn't exist in my first tea. What I really liked where all the wine aftertastes. Good qi. It did its job and I felt comforted by the time I stopped.
 
I had a second session with the 2014 Yiwu Tea Mountain Tongqinghe. This was 6.6g in about 100ml, so on the weaker end of my brewing preferences. I note this because it's rather different from my first try and far more analogous to my thermos. It was also just more enjoyable. So this is pretty legit gushu, if not, as with the YTM '12 Chawangshu, not as good as any of the major TW outfits good teas. Per gram, again, it's about $50-$100 too expensive--it costs about as much as what XZH and YQH teas that are decisively better, like the '14 XZH Lanyin, for example. Flip side is that getting the better TW teas is more trouble and inconvenient than buying from YTM... (Well, you can buy probably better CYH 2016 and later from Teapals and a couple from TeasWeLike)

This tea had an herbal aroma most of the way. Early brews had some mushroom and fruitiness with the herbal tone. Later brews had a vanilla ice cream like aroma for a bit. The taste was dark herbal and mineral most of the way, and as the session moves on, the taste rises such that the herbal becomes more pungent feeling, and more sugars notes comes in. In late brews, as with the aroma, a substantial vanilla ice cream character shows up, with a bit of herbalness. The viscosity is moderate, smooth with no real texture until late where a stiff feeling is present. Low astringency in the early session, and more of a presence in middle and later brews. There is often a cooling feeling at the top of the throat. The most consistent aftertaste feature is the yiwu huigan to sugars, pretty much through the session. Some early brews have a lingering and developing mouthcoat of herbal and other notes. Sometimes the mouthcoat feels sour when the tea is cold. There is yun as well that is also lengthy and developing. Late brews have a bit of mouthcoat along with the usual yiwu huigan, usually of ice cream. The qi is moderate to strong much of the way, but it does fade to a light qi at the end of the session. Durability is not that great for a reasonably elite tea, it was pretty tired and thin at about twelve brews. I could have kept going, but it was just going to be boring and pleasant thin and light herbal/vanilla ice cream notes.

I restarted the XZH '09 yinfeng pekoe and it's pretty clear that is the better tea than this TQH. Much richer quite a bit deeper into the session.
 
YQH 2006 Wushang Miaopin. Didn’t really get this one the first time around. Second try. Really enjoyed this energy - fairly powerful and more internally than externally centered. The taste is fairly typical YQH.

YQH 2004 Dingji. A great tea. Really a classic Yiwu with a great balance of complexity and refinement. The energy is very good, if not as transporting as the above tea. I would think the Miaopin trees are a little older. The taste is also more clean or less typically YQH in character so that’s an additional positive.

EoT 2016 Yiwu Guoyoulin Long Process. A very good and balanced tea. The energy is very pleasant. I couldn’t remember the details or the cost of the tea when I opened it. Upon drinking it was clear that it was a good tea. Round and clean Yiwu character. I think reflective of EoT’s skill in sourcing clean teas.
 
2017 EoT Secret Forest 2017. Sweet, mellow, airy energy, not deep energy. Lacks depth of body and any element of bitterness. Not a premium tea.

2004 YQH Zhencang Chawang. Round, embracing energy. Very good tea. Not as big as Dingji, like Dingji Jr. in terms of being lighter.
 
The tea yesterday was the 2011 Essence of Tea Douyizhai Nannuo. Being on the Menghai bender that I had been, I thought it was a fitting conclusion, and I enjoyed it. The aroma and taste were relatively strong and sweet. The taste had a decent balance of a firm bitterness and lots of sweetness. Okay viscosity, and it was a little more generous with aftertaste than it usually is, with a bit of a yun. Good qi. To me it was interesting to compare with the 2010 ChenShenHao LBZ. That tea is better overall, but it's a lot closer (that it should be for something that expensive). The EoT is long and far and away more palatable and sweet and enjoyable in taste, while the CSH has a stronger taste early and a nice refined (if hollow) taste later. EoT had the better aroma. The CSH had more qi and a bit more aftertaste. The CSH has decisively more thick viscosity. Depending on how well the deep tart tobacco taste matures, extends deep taste later into a session, and how much the astringency eases off, the CSH should age better, but probably more like 10-15 years down the road. I here that the EoT tea club is getting material from the same garden this year, or maybe they already got it. Heh, this was $60 for 400g of tea in 2011, and today, well, it's multiples of that to get the same amount of new tea today.

Today was the last day of my vacation so I went all out: 2014 XZH Hongyin Grade B. It seems to have went all out for me, as today's session was the most enjoyable session I've had with this tea (well, at most this would be my third session, so not too many tries). Honestly though, all four of the 2014 XZH Hongyins are among the best tea it's possible to buy. This crushes anything from Yiwu Tea Mountain, and it's better than the King's Seal LBZ, which is no slouch.

The aroma much of the way in was butter, honey, choco, moss before switching to a variety of aromas like choco and aromatic herbal, herbal and fruity, and savory floral very late. The taste started off as a complex one featuring high choco, butter, honey, moss/savory floral, and a bit of sweet nuttiness. Then it dives to a more dark choco with a touch of bitter and wood, fruity, herbal notes. Then it rises quickly back up to high choco, butter, herbal, then settles into more of a consistent melange of muted choco-plummy-herbal-honey character in the late session. Viscosity was more of a moderate-good most of the session, but there were some outright thick soups late. Texture was something like velvet or pudding or in-between. Oil texture late. Outside of a few random brews, astringency was pretty low and was never much of a factor. There was lots of cooling at top of the throat, pretty consistently through the session. Strong feeling down the throat early in the session. The aftertastes were really great. A bit of yiwu huigan to sweet nutmeat very early. Much of the session had strong, lovely yuns that was almost as active as a pungent huigan and had many flavors to savor. The mouthcoat was similarly complex and active. There was occasionally some floral mouth aroma. A good aftertaste game lasted pretty long, about through eight brews. The qi was strong early, and settled to moderate late. Good quality and enveloping feeling. Qi tended to last a long time past finishing the cup. The durability seems pretty good, I got about fifteen brews, and the late brews had a pretty solid light core taste still before I put it in the fridge.

Looking forward to a few more brews of this tea the rest of the week. Money spent on this was well worth it.
 
Inspired by shah8. 2014 XZH Hongyin Iron Cake.

First few steeps were shorter. Emphasized the floral, ethereal character. Then with longer steeps the liquor turned quite dark. A very high quality tea. A comparison with 2004 YQH Dingji came to mind in that the XZH is a much better tea in terms of its refinement. Like a BMW compared to an Acura. My sense, though I'm a novice compared to shah8 on this stuff, is that the quality of leaf, location, etc. was very particular and high level on the XZH. Whereas with the YQH being a blend with less known about the particulars of the origin, it's just not as high quality in material selection.

The two areas where the XZH was lacking was a) didn't last more than ten steeps b) the depth of the energy wasn't an immersive oneness, but still, was a nice present emptiness energy. The Dingji didn't necessarily have more energy, and I don't find it to be the most energetic of YQH, but I'm guessing the overall age of the trees was older.

Overall the XZH was a very refined tea and well in the direction that teas are ideally realizing.
 
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about Yiwu Mountain Tea being consistently 50$ too high per cake-
they have a permanent 10% discount code for their mail-list subscribers
(which they send twice a year..),
which accumulates with their frequent on site sales.. so you get 17%-19% off, which covers that 50$ premium..
btw for specific cakes they seem to be able to offer larger discounts with direct transfer

I totally agree with your assessment of them though- I use them for specific regions I like, but don't sample them widely anymore..
 
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Inspired by shah8. 2014 XZH Hongyin Iron Cake.

First few steeps were shorter. Emphasized the floral, ethereal character. Then with longer steeps the liquor turned quite dark. A very high quality tea. A comparison with 2004 YQH Dingji came to mind in that the XZH is a much better tea in terms of its refinement. Like a BMW compared to an Acura. My sense, though I'm a novice compared to shah8 on this stuff, is that the quality of leaf, location, etc. was very particular and high level on the XZH. Whereas with the YQH being a blend with less known about the particulars of the origin, it's just not as high quality in material selection.

The two areas where the XZH was lacking was a) didn't last more than ten steeps b) the depth of the energy wasn't an immersive oneness, but still, was a nice present emptiness energy. The Dingji didn't necessarily have more energy, and I don't find it to be the most energetic of YQH, but I'm guessing the overall age of the trees was older.

Overall the XZH was a very refined tea and well in the direction that teas are ideally realizing.

One of my favorites from XZH. I really need to buy a full cake of the Iron. The energy of that tea tends to have a strong effect on me.
 
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