GC.68OC, GOLD GRANDE, YAQI CHROME MELLON - A JOURNEY

[JoWolf]

Graduation
Four strangers are starting to become familiar friends. Even shaky times with handle failure, vendor dispute, animal funk, belligerent stiff hair, animal funk, belligerent stiff hair, a serious amount of fun. I am far from being a brush connoisseur or expert. I do have a better understanding of brush parts and how to knot a brush if I had to. Half my goal. End game is the other half. A six brush rotation, a Zenith Chubby boar and Horse will complete the group. My present shave schedule will use two brushes per month. The variation and performance parameters of the brushes will keep me interested and challenged. The initial breaking in, conditioning with numerous hand lathers delivered positive spin offs. There is an achievable zen with hand lathering. Looking at or picking up any of the four brushes there is a comfortable familiarity. I have already auditioned their strengths and weaknesses before first use. Early days transitioning to DE shaving brutally taught me, comfort above all else. I believe all my brushes are at an excellent starting point to deliver increasing comfort. Did I mention I love had lathering but only for brush conditioning.

I shave every fifth day. Six shaves a month. Three shaves on a brush and soap before rotating both. I’m on the Zenith horse right now. My first shave with a new brush will be mid May. The steady attention on the brushes has helped me improve my overall maintenance and care for all brushes. Using the same brush and soap for three shaves gives me a better opportunity to learn and explore their performance. Shaving each of the three open comb razors with the same brush and soap, will help me improve my technique.
I do not feel I have too many balls in the air. Compared to where I was random everything on every shave, except for razor. I’m thinking now coincidentally when consistencies improved BBS shaves fell into place. Go figure. Everything is in place for me to put full concentration into technique improvement. This is the first time since I started DE shaving that I feel relaxed and riding a comfortable wave. I guess a fixed four is the next level. I need to sort out razors and soaps. Every shave with an open comb draws me closer to them. Open combs like lather and so does my skin.

 

[JoWolf]

SHAVE #5
Gold Grande
Voskhod (3)
Zenith Horse Hair 28mm x51mm
Holy Kaw King of Oud
Grooming Department Moisturizing Eucalyptus and Spearmint Preshave
Alum Block
Hyaluranoic Acid
Witch Hazel
Lucky Tiger After Shave & Face Tonic
Pinaud Clubman After Shave

Starting to tune into the shave. I have shaved for over fifty years. Never trying to analyze what I was doing. Now I’m analyzing, adjusting and critiquing all parts of everything. I was not overly enthralled with the Zenith Horse Hair on shave #4. I did some towelling on the brush after shave #4, and when it had dried out, I combed it. There were not any tangles but with towelling the previous day, the bloom and softness did improve. I was still dreading this brush a little for shave#5. Starting to think maybe it doesn’t belong. Recently I read that horse hair more so than other hairs works best with tips. I usually lean in a little. I am a flagrant scrubber because it feels so good. I load a damp brush as heavy as I can and than spread it on scrubbing just short of mashing. I dip and wet tips working to my desired lather. This time I lightened up and now concentrating on using just the tips to build the lather. The transformation was dazzling. I have always used the tips quite a bit on my Plisson Silvertip. I do not know why I haven’t with the horse. I will now. I am also planning to lighten up on the boars. Especially for lather building which was noticeably quicker. The brush also got past the second and third pass with initial load. Excellent lathering all six passes. So it wasn’t the brush. Operator error. I’m looking forward to using this beautiful horse hair brush for shave six.
The Grande is starting to feel like it’s attached to my hand. I love this razor. Shallow angle strokes on first pass was the plan. I did not like the way the GC.68OC squeegeed and stacked the lather on shave #4. I’m putting that down to my first effort Shallow angle shave attempt. The Grande didn’t seem to squeegee or stack the lather as much. I use short strokes. The shallow angle leans and feels more towards longer strokes. It was quite easy to start shallow and finish the stroke steep. Wtg & xtg I shaved mostly shallow. Atg was steep angle. I guess I will start to use longer strokes now for shallow. The three passes hardly needed any extra clean ups or buffing. Each shave I’m dialling in more efficiency. The head shave more of the same. Very nice BBS.
I like the Holy Kaw but not enough to try another. Read a thread earlier with some guys disenchanted with artisan soaps. Even before reading that thread I’m starting to lean that way. With most soaps I get the fragrance through my strong scented pre shave. Not the case with this soap I could hardly smell my strong preshave. The King of Oud scent is way too strong for me. I don’t dislike it but I‘m on the line. The Holy Kaw is thirsty which is fine. Lube and glide is ok but nothing special. Post shave which to me is how dry or lubricated your skin feels. Maybe a tick over average, but again nothing special. The commonality with the artisan soaps to me is the strong scents and they aren’t doing it for me. I’m preferring weak scented soaps. I like scents put on after the shave. Tried Pinaud Clubman after shave today. I like it. I sniffed it when I first got it and than ordered the controversial Vegetal and Special Reserve. To nights shave was very enjoyable. My confidence and relaxation during each shave is improving.

 

[JoWolf]

Last July I started DE shaving. I had only been using one brush up to that point. A Plisson Silvertip. Although I was aware of other brushes and even had a couple of two band badgers, seldom used, I gave one away. Using the Plisson for over three decades was so automatic I rarely gave it a thought. Now being a brush baron with more than ten brushes. Using boar and horse hair for the first time as well as breaking them in was a completely new experience. In my attempt to make up for lost years of scrubbing I developed poor lathering habits. Upon spreading lather and continuing my scrub routine I would not slow down and use the brush tips to develop the last little bit of performance the lather may offer. I was still getting good lather. Given a choice good, better, best. I am going to curtail my insatiable scrubbing when it is time to dial in and squeak that little extra performance from the lather. I’m glad the journaling and critiquing are keeping me in check. No telling what what kind of trouble a monster scrubber might get your lather into.

 

[JoWolf]

Thursday May 7
SHAVE #6
Yaqi Chrome Mellon
Voskhod (3)
Zenith Horse Hair 28mm x51mm
Holy Kaw King of Oud
Grooming Department Moisturizing Eucalyptus and Spearmint Preshave
Alum Block
Hyaluranoic Acid
Witch Hazel
Lucky Tiger After Shave & Face Tonic
Pinaud Clubman Special Reserve After Shave

My brush math. Six brush rotation. Three shaves on a brush, rotate. Six shaves a month. I will shave with this horse hair again in three months. All the brushes I have in rotation are less than a year old. The best and most useful way for me to familiarize myself with the four new yet to be used brushes was multiple hand lathering sessions. The biggest improvement with my DE shaving technique to date was to lighten up. Use less pressure. I’ve always used less pressure with my Plisson Silvertip, but did not with the horse or boars. I made that adjustment with the horse hair today and I’m glad I didn’t take a year to realize. Jumping into the car and motoring a half block before releasing the parking brake, that’s what it felt like. Wow. A small adjustment with great returns. From dubious feelings about this brush to a firm respect for the performance it delivered. One of my more satisfying and fun times lathering. A happy shave is a relaxing shave.

Every shave I switch razors and swear I think this is the one. I love all three. The Yaqi head with its extra set of lathering channels feels so comfortable riding the cap. I was thinking first wtg shallow angle and next two Passes steep angle. No, it was just too comfortable riding the cap and that was it, all three face passes. I had a few extra neck and chin clean up passes to get my BBS. I am leaning towards this being the third in line under efficiency but more shaves required for a verdict. With the extra lathering channels the Yaqi is probably the best lather handler, more shaves required for a verdict. The Clubman Special Reserve After Shave first time use today. My wife said it reminded her of her fathers after shave. Yes sometimes everything goes right.

The head shave I carried on with the shallow angle all three passes. Lathering was above average with brush performance feeling so good and natural. The scrub being different than badger or boar but so very pleasant. I do not like any kind of scritch in a brush. I removed the scritch from this horse hair brush with extra hand lathering and towelling sessions. This also improved the softness of the brush. I do not know what a fully broken in horse hair is like. I suspect this brush has begun that last stage.

Shave seven will introduce the first of my hand knotted brushes. It will be the chubby silvertip. To me this is my most dynamic and exciting brush in the rotation. If there is such a thing as a Brush Rush, this little scooter would be that brush. I have four MdC samples I’ve been sitting on, waiting for this brush. I think I will try the Rose first. I’ve never tried a Rose lather, I do have some Thatchers Rose Witch Hazel. I will also try out the silicone collapsible slow feed dog bowl, which was waiting for the MdC samples. The preshave honours will go to the charcoal cube. It can take months to put a shave together. This one has been rattling around my head for awhile.

 

[Esox]

Every shave I switch razors and swear I think this is the one.

Thats a good place to be...

 

[JoWolf]

Thats a good place to be...

Thank You for your early encouragement to journal. The process is really dialling all aspects of my shave into clearer focus.

 

[Esox]

Thank You for your early encouragement to journal. The process is really dialling all aspects of my shave into clearer focus.

You're welcome!

I've found my journal thread a good resource to have over time. I still go back and read what I thought of things a year or longer ago.

It took me much longer to find my top picks of razors though. I'm down to four on my shelf now, from 15, and use them all regularly. Each is a favorite when I use it.

 

[JoWolf]

It took me much longer to find my top picks of razors though. I'm down to four on my shelf now, from 15, and use them all regularly. Each is a favorite when I use it.

I always felt OC’s looked too nasty and aggressive. I was kinda even holding my breath when I bought the GC.68OC. During the first shave my knees started knocking and I figured try a few more. There was no plan. I didn’t know there were trap doors in the rabbit hole. Now I look at a razor and if it ain’t got no teeth. It just doesn’t look good to me.

 

[Esox]

I always felt OC’s looked too nasty and aggressive. I was kinda even holding my breath when I bought the GC.68OC. During the first shave my knees started knocking and I figured try a few more. There was no plan. I didn’t know there were trap doors in the rabbit hole. Now I look at a razor and if it ain’t got no teeth. It just doesn’t look good to me.

You're not alone. Theres only one SB razor left on my shelf, my GEM Bullet Tip. With a fresh PTFE blade I dont need to buff much, but thats my main reason for preferring OC razors. The ability to drag the lather on the back stroke.

 

[JoWolf]

The ability to drag the lather on the back stroke.

Speaking of strokes. My next shave GC.68OC does not perform shallow as well as the other two OC’s. To me it seems more of a lather squeegee effect getting in the way, but I’m not sure. Here is the question. Are some DE razors just not suited to shallow angle strokes? Do you consider yourself a shallow angle dude or steep? Does the razor design designate best stroke? Sorry three questions.

 

[Esox]

Are some DE razors just not suited to shallow angle strokes? Do you consider yourself a shallow angle dude or steep? Does the razor design designate best stroke? Sorry three questions.

I think some do yes. For me its a blade exposure issue. The more blade exposure a razor offers, the easier it is to achieve a shallower angle while applying less pressure on the cap.

Using my Gillette NEW SC, which has similar blade exposure to the GC, resulted in a very smooth and comfortable shave but it was a patchy shave. I didnt have an even shave over all areas because it didnt offer enough blade exposure and on some areas, along my jawline and chin, I couldnt use enough pressure to reach the same angle of blade to skin, so as my whiskers grew back, they grew at different lengths. Some areas were shaved closer than others.

In comparison to my Fatip Grande, which offers generous positive blade exposure, its much easier to achieve the optimum angle and maintain that angle throughout a shave.

Blade exposures. NEW SC left, Fatip right.



The NEW SC is basically a Gillette Old Type with blade gap. Because it has an added .023" blade gap, its far easier to use shallowly than it is to use an Old Type at the same shallow angle because positive blade exposure is increased over the Old Type.

My made in Canada Gillette Old Type blade exposure.



I have a swirl growth pattern on each side of my Adam's apple. Because thats such a difficult area to shave and DE blades are so thin and flexible, I need to shave them at such an angle to limit blade flex as much as possible or its uncomfortable, at best. Given my correct angle of blade edge to skin using my Grande I get no flex at all because the edge is forced directly into the hair at an angle that doesnt impart any flex to the blade. I can only achieve that angle by pushing the cap into my skin. All pressure applied is on the cap between the green lines, not on the blades edge. Used at the angle below, the blade just skims over my skin on a thin layer of lather like an air hockey puck on a layer of air.

Trying to achieve the same angle of edge to skin with a razor that offers less blade exposure, for me is an exercise in frustration. If I drop my ideal angle with my Grande, even just slightly, I'll have irritation over my swirls at best or weepers at worst. If I shave over them with a steep angle and I shave slowly enough, I can even hear a tiny ping as the blade springs back into shape after cutting a single whisker. The result of that is a weeper.

That said, I tend to shave steep everywhere except over my swirls. However, when using my GEM SE's, I can shave the same areas, comfortably, with a steep and even very steep angle because the GEM blades are .009" thick instead of ~.004" thick like DE blades. That inherent blade rigidity really pays off for me in smoothness and comfort, which is why I mainly use SE's now even though they are, by design, meant to be used very shallow. The angle of blade edge to skin using my Grande and the design angle of my GEM's is very much the same. The inherent rigidity of the blades, is what makes the difference.

The design of the razor makes a great difference to me. All of my DE's but one are rigid designs. My R41 is the only one that isnt and I also use it shallow to very shallow and do so for the entire shave to limit blade flex because the baseplate lacks blade support.

My Old Types on the other hand, I use pretty much the same as I do my Grande. Steep, but shallow over my swirls.

The single aspect of razor design I dont like is blade gap. The less gap the better for me. As blade gap increases, my skin irritation increases and it accumulates with the number of passes. Using my NEW SC and its modest gap, if I need more than 2 full passes and an ATG clean up I'll have irritation. Using my Gillette Slims, to make them effective enough, I need to use them set at 7 or 9. If I need three full passes or more, on setting 7, my neck will be almost fire engine red by the time I'm finished, yet, using my Grande I can and have done 4+ full passes, all done ATG, and had no irritation whatsoever.

This is why I say I have sensitive skin. As my skin passes through the gap in a razors design, its essentially being forced against the blades edge at a steep angle. As gap increases, assuming the razor is being used at a neutral angle, the steeper that angle of edge to skin becomes and the quicker my irritation accumulates.

Give me a razor with little blade gap and generous blade exposure of a rigidly supported edge so that I can find my own ideal angle.

Blade gap works like a mechanical advantage by manipulating the skin as it travels through it. For those that have skin that can withstand that, it does make a razor more effective. For me, its a price I wont pay.

 

[JoWolf]

I think some do yes. For me its a blade exposure issue. The more blade exposure a razor offers, the easier it is to achieve a shallower angle while applying less pressure on the cap.

Using my Gillette NEW SC, which has similar blade exposure to the GC, resulted in a very smooth and comfortable shave but it was a patchy shave. I didnt have an even shave over all areas because it didnt offer enough blade exposure and on some areas, along my jawline and chin, I couldnt use enough pressure to reach the same angle of blade to skin, so as my whiskers grew back, they grew at different lengths. Some areas were shaved closer than others.

In comparison to my Fatip Grande, which offers generous positive blade exposure, its much easier to achieve the optimum angle and maintain that angle throughout a shave.

Blade exposures. NEW SC left, Fatip right.

View attachment 1098288 View attachment 1098287

The NEW SC is basically a Gillette Old Type with blade gap. Because it has an added .023" blade gap, its far easier to use shallowly than it is to use an Old Type at the same shallow angle because positive blade exposure is increased over the Old Type.

My made in Canada Gillette Old Type blade exposure.

View attachment 1098289

I have a swirl growth pattern on each side of my Adam's apple. Because thats such a difficult area to shave and DE blades are so thin and flexible, I need to shave them at such an angle to limit blade flex as much as possible or its uncomfortable, at best. Given my correct angle of blade edge to skin using my Grande I get no flex at all because the edge is forced directly into the hair at an angle that doesnt impart any flex to the blade. I can only achieve that angle by pushing the cap into my skin. All pressure applied is on the cap between the green lines, not on the blades edge. Used at the angle below, the blade just skims over my skin on a thin layer of lather like an air hockey puck on a layer of air.

View attachment 1098305

Trying to achieve the same angle of edge to skin with a razor that offers less blade exposure, for me is an exercise in frustration. If I drop my ideal angle with my Grande, even just slightly, I'll have irritation over my swirls at best or weepers at worst. If I shave over them with a steep angle and I shave slowly enough, I can even hear a tiny ping as the blade springs back into shape after cutting a single whisker. The result of that is a weeper.

That said, I tend to shave steep everywhere except over my swirls. However, when using my GEM SE's, I can shave the same areas, comfortably, with a steep and even very steep angle because the GEM blades are .009" thick instead of ~.004" thick like DE blades. That inherent blade rigidity really pays off for me in smoothness and comfort, which is why I mainly use SE's now even though they are, by design, meant to be used very shallow. The angle of blade edge to skin using my Grande and the design angle of my GEM's is very much the same. The inherent rigidity of the blades, is what makes the difference.

The design of the razor makes a great difference to me. All of my DE's but one are rigid designs. My R41 is the only one that isnt and I also use it shallow to very shallow and do so for the entire shave to limit blade flex because the baseplate lacks blade support.

My Old Types on the other hand, I use pretty much the same as I do my Grande. Steep, but shallow over my swirls.

The single aspect of razor design I dont like is blade gap. The less gap the better for me. As blade gap increases, my skin irritation increases and it accumulates with the number of passes. Using my NEW SC and its modest gap, if I need more than 2 full passes and an ATG clean up I'll have irritation. Using my Gillette Slims, to make them effective enough, I need to use them set at 7 or 9. If I need three full passes or more, on setting 7, my neck will be almost fire engine red by the time I'm finished, yet, using my Grande I can and have done 4+ full passes, all done ATG, and had no irritation whatsoever.

This is why I say I have sensitive skin. As my skin passes through the gap in a razors design, its essentially being forced against the blades edge at a steep angle. As gap increases, assuming the razor is being used at a neutral angle, the steeper that angle of edge to skin becomes and the quicker my irritation accumulates.

Give me a razor with little blade gap and generous blade exposure of a rigidly supported edge so that I can find my own ideal angle.

Blade gap works like a mechanical advantage by manipulating the skin as it travels through it. For those that have skin that can withstand that, it does make a razor more effective. For me, its a price I wont pay.

I think some do yes. For me its a blade exposure issue. The more blade exposure a razor offers, the easier it is to achieve a shallower angle while applying less pressure on the cap.

The added blade exposure provides increase blade feedback for maintaining the angle. Even though your blade is above the skin, you are still getting blade feedback, which adjusts cap pressure to the skin. That is the way I am understanding it. Is that correct?

Give me a razor with little blade gap and generous blade exposure of a rigidly supported edge so that I can find my own ideal angle.
Which De razors do you like that fall into the category?

The only single edge experience I’ve had Shick Injectors a long time ago. I’m surprised that there would still be blade vibration from the Grande. This made me think that the audio from all three razors being so different is probably the vibration of the blade as much as razor design. What is your opinion?

Thank you for helping me understand some of the dynamics, I used to think it was just shaving.

 

[Esox]

The added blade exposure provides increase blade feedback for maintaining the angle. Even though your blade is above the skin, you are still getting blade feedback, which adjusts cap pressure to the skin. That is the way I am understanding it. Is that correct?

Not increased feedback, although that could be a side effect. Using my Grande at my preferred angle with a Gillette Yellow blade, I get virtually no feedback at all. I feel nothing, absolutely nothing and hear very little, yet I finish with a 12 hour BBS. Shaving like that comes with its own drawbacks. When you can feel nothing and hear very little, the natural tendency is to try to feel the blade by adjusting the angle or pressure applied so that you can feel something. Thats a mistake. Once your technique is good enough, accept that it is and assume you're doing it right, because you most likely are. Then the dividends start to roll in.

Increasing blade exposure makes more of the blade available to use at more extreme angles. Therefore its easier to have a closer shave at an extremely shallow angle because theres just more of the edge exposed to use.

The Gillette NEW SC has a very modest blade gap (green lines) along with a fairly large guard span (red lines).

The Fatip on the other hand has much less blade gap along with a shorter guard span.

The fact that the blade edge flexes in my Grande isnt a fault of design in any way, that only shows that my whiskers are difficult to cut.

A side effect of an extremely rigid design, such as the Fatip, is that because the blade cant flex as much, something else has to give if the blade isnt an optimal match for the users hair type and composition. That can be a reason why a blade may tug. The blade itself isnt giving way so the skin is and as the hair is cut, its pulled away from the skin resulting in a tugging feeling.

In a less rigid design, the same blade may tug less. Thats because the blade can flex, give, more than the skin needs to. Shaving too quickly, or ATG, with such a design can lead to weepers from blade flex. Chris Kirchen, the designer and maker of the Karve razor explained that as;

"The geometry came from a bunch of research to familiarize myself with how razors are configured and then creating analogies between how a blade is configured and real world applications. The one I'm most proud of (because I saw an immediate improvement), was to support the blade as much as possible as a way of eliminating chatter). All razors support the blade on the top side with the top cap, but chatter comes from cyclical loading...force, no force, force, no force, etc. The unloading comes from loading the blade during cutting, but then something gives (such as the whisker that is being cut) and the blade unloads for a split second. The top cap can only help with the loading, so the baseplate has to work together with it."

Some razors, especially the early Gillette TTO razors, such as my 1940's Gillette Regent Tech, are very audible designs. That is directly related to blade support, or lack there of, and the blade vibrating as its used. I tested that theory a while ago using my Regent, which by the way, has slightly more blade exposure than either my Grande or R41 and offers blade support squarely between the two. You can read about that, including my previous quotes to that post, below.

https://www.badgerandblade.com/foru...f-shaving-crazies.528278/page-67#post-9708536

The advantage to learning and understanding all of the various aspects of razor design gives one the opportunity to find the razor design that gives one the best, most comfortable and closest shave one can have. The drawback of it is trying so many different types. With a bit of thought however, the road to the best razor for someone, can be pretty short.

It is just shaving, but then BOSC came along. In the end however, all razors do the same thing in the same way with the same blades. I like a razor that suits me and my technique. I want the razor to match me and how I want to shave. I dont want to match the razor, although I can if need be.

 

[JoWolf]

I think some do yes. For me its a blade exposure issue. The more blade exposure a razor offers, the easier it is to achieve a shallower angle while applying less pressure on the cap.

Using my Gillette NEW SC, which has similar blade exposure to the GC, resulted in a very smooth and comfortable shave but it was a patchy shave. I didnt have an even shave over all areas because it didnt offer enough blade exposure and on some areas, along my jawline and chin, I couldnt use enough pressure to reach the same angle of blade to skin, so as my whiskers grew back, they grew at different lengths. Some areas were shaved closer than others.

In comparison to my Fatip Grande, which offers generous positive blade exposure, its much easier to achieve the optimum angle and maintain that angle throughout a shave.

Blade exposures. NEW SC left, Fatip right.

View attachment 1098288 View attachment 1098287

The NEW SC is basically a Gillette Old Type with blade gap. Because it has an added .023" blade gap, its far easier to use shallowly than it is to use an Old Type at the same shallow angle because positive blade exposure is increased over the Old Type.

My made in Canada Gillette Old Type blade exposure.

View attachment 1098289

I have a swirl growth pattern on each side of my Adam's apple. Because thats such a difficult area to shave and DE blades are so thin and flexible, I need to shave them at such an angle to limit blade flex as much as possible or its uncomfortable, at best. Given my correct angle of blade edge to skin using my Grande I get no flex at all because the edge is forced directly into the hair at an angle that doesnt impart any flex to the blade. I can only achieve that angle by pushing the cap into my skin. All pressure applied is on the cap between the green lines, not on the blades edge. Used at the angle below, the blade just skims over my skin on a thin layer of lather like an air hockey puck on a layer of air.

View attachment 1098305

Trying to achieve the same angle of edge to skin with a razor that offers less blade exposure, for me is an exercise in frustration. If I drop my ideal angle with my Grande, even just slightly, I'll have irritation over my swirls at best or weepers at worst. If I shave over them with a steep angle and I shave slowly enough, I can even hear a tiny ping as the blade springs back into shape after cutting a single whisker. The result of that is a weeper.

That said, I tend to shave steep everywhere except over my swirls. However, when using my GEM SE's, I can shave the same areas, comfortably, with a steep and even very steep angle because the GEM blades are .009" thick instead of ~.004" thick like DE blades. That inherent blade rigidity really pays off for me in smoothness and comfort, which is why I mainly use SE's now even though they are, by design, meant to be used very shallow. The angle of blade edge to skin using my Grande and the design angle of my GEM's is very much the same. The inherent rigidity of the blades, is what makes the difference.

The design of the razor makes a great difference to me. All of my DE's but one are rigid designs. My R41 is the only one that isnt and I also use it shallow to very shallow and do so for the entire shave to limit blade flex because the baseplate lacks blade support.

My Old Types on the other hand, I use pretty much the same as I do my Grande. Steep, but shallow over my swirls.

The single aspect of razor design I dont like is blade gap. The less gap the better for me. As blade gap increases, my skin irritation increases and it accumulates with the number of passes. Using my NEW SC and its modest gap, if I need more than 2 full passes and an ATG clean up I'll have irritation. Using my Gillette Slims, to make them effective enough, I need to use them set at 7 or 9. If I need three full passes or more, on setting 7, my neck will be almost fire engine red by the time I'm finished, yet, using my Grande I can and have done 4+ full passes, all done ATG, and had no irritation whatsoever.

This is why I say I have sensitive skin. As my skin passes through the gap in a razors design, its essentially being forced against the blades edge at a steep angle. As gap increases, assuming the razor is being used at a neutral angle, the steeper that angle of edge to skin becomes and the quicker my irritation accumulates.

Give me a razor with little blade gap and generous blade exposure of a rigidly supported edge so that I can find my own ideal angle.

Blade gap works like a mechanical advantage by manipulating the skin as it travels through it. For those that have skin that can withstand that, it does make a razor more effective. For me, its a price I wont pay.

The single aspect of razor design I dont like is blade gap. The less gap the better for me. As blade gap increases, my skin irritation increases and it accumulates with the number of passes.

The two biggest improvements for my skin sensitivity was switching to cold water and open combs. The cold water from the first to latest shave feels like the razor is moving over a harder surface. I suspect less skin is made available for the gap. Open combs more lubrication. Technique has added the most improvement. The blade exposure, gap, shallow, steep are starting to come out of the fog for me. Going forward with the three razors I am already starting to use them differently. I find the added concentration on the shave more relaxing, it’s always more fun if you think you know what you are doing.

 

[Esox]

The two biggest improvements for my skin sensitivity was switching to cold water and open combs. The cold water from the first to latest shave feels like the razor is moving over a harder surface. I suspect less skin is made available for the gap. Open combs more lubrication. Technique has added the most improvement. The blade exposure, gap, shallow, steep are starting to come out of the fog for me. Going forward with the three razors I am already starting to use them differently. I find the added concentration on the shave more relaxing, it’s always more fun if you think you know what you are doing.

I found cold water tightened my skin noticeably which also caused irritation. I prefer warm to hot water that makes my skin more supple and forgiving.

 

[JoWolf]

Not increased feedback, although that could be a side effect. Using my Grande at my preferred angle with a Gillette Yellow blade, I get virtually no feedback at all. I feel nothing, absolutely nothing and hear very little, yet I finish with a 12 hour BBS. Shaving like that comes with its own drawbacks. When you can feel nothing and hear very little, the natural tendency is to try to feel the blade by adjusting the angle or pressure applied so that you can feel something. Thats a mistake. Once your technique is good enough, accept that it is and assume you're doing it right, because you most likely are. Then the dividends start to roll in.

Increasing blade exposure makes more of the blade available to use at more extreme angles. Therefore its easier to have a closer shave at an extremely shallow angle because theres just more of the edge exposed to use.

The Gillette NEW SC has a very modest blade gap (green lines) along with a fairly large guard span (red lines).

View attachment 1098326

The Fatip on the other hand has much less blade gap along with a shorter guard span.

View attachment 1098325

The fact that the blade edge flexes in my Grande isnt a fault of design in any way, that only shows that my whiskers are difficult to cut.

A side effect of an extremely rigid design, such as the Fatip, is that because the blade cant flex as much, something else has to give if the blade isnt an optimal match for the users hair type and composition. That can be a reason why a blade may tug. The blade itself isnt giving way so the skin is and as the hair is cut, its pulled away from the skin resulting in a tugging feeling.

In a less rigid design, the same blade may tug less. Thats because the blade can flex, give, more than the skin needs to. Shaving too quickly, or ATG, with such a design can lead to weepers from blade flex. Chris Kirchen, the designer and maker of the Karve razor explained that as;



Some razors, especially the early Gillette TTO razors, such as my 1940's Gillette Regent Tech, are very audible designs. That is directly related to blade support, or lack there of, and the blade vibrating as its used. I tested that theory a while ago using my Regent, which by the way, has slightly more blade exposure than either my Grande or R41 and offers blade support squarely between the two. You can read about that, including my previous quotes to that post, below.

https://www.badgerandblade.com/foru...f-shaving-crazies.528278/page-67#post-9708536

The advantage to learning and understanding all of the various aspects of razor design gives one the opportunity to find the razor design that gives one the best, most comfortable and closest shave one can have. The drawback of it is trying so many different types. With a bit of thought however, the road to the best razor for someone, can be pretty short.

It is just shaving, but then BOSC came along. In the end however, all razors do the same thing in the same way with the same blades. I like a razor that suits me and my technique. I want the razor to match me and how I want to shave. I dont want to match the razor, although I can if need be.

Using my Grande at my preferred angle with a Gillette Yellow blade, I get virtually no feedback at all. I feel nothing, absolutely nothing and hear very little,

The Yaqi is the noisiest of my three OC razors. Last shave all six passes were shallow and considerably quieter. I always have feedback, no pull or tug, like I feel the blade cutting the whiskers. I consider that blade feedback. Is that correct? Do all your razors shaving shallow perform like your Grande? No feedback very little noise. The noise you are noticing is it the cutting sound of the whiskers?

 

[Esox]

The Yaqi is the noisiest of my three OC razors. Last shave all six passes were shallow and considerably quieter. I always have feedback, no pull or tug, like I feel the blade cutting the whiskers. I consider that blade feedback. Is that correct? Do all your razors shaving shallow perform like your Grande? No feedback very little noise. The noise you are noticing is it the cutting sound of the whiskers?

If you think you're getting feedback, you must be. We all would interpret that our own way.

My Grande outperforms every other DE razor I've used because of the generous blade exposure, the rigid design and the short guard span distance. There is no other razor I'm aware of, modern or vintage, that combines those three design elements. The next closest would be the Gillette Old Type but because they have less blade exposure they arent as efficient. My Grande is, easily, twice as efficient as my Old Types and NEW SC. My R41 cant even compete because it lacks so much baseplate support I cant even shave ATG without doing two full passes first, one WTG and one directly XTG. The lack of blade support kills the efficiency. Shaving first pass WTG, with a Derby Extra blade in my Grande and a fresh Feather in my R41, they both shave equally close. My Grande however, is a far more secure feeling shave.

The more rigid the design, the less the blade can vibrate, the less audible feedback you'll get. When I use a Gillette Yellow to shave #6, I feel nothing and hear very little. What little I do hear are the hairs being cut, yes. On shave #7 they start to tug but I've used one to 9 shaves. They're done on shave 7 for me though.

All of my top blades in my Grande are very quiet and what I normally hear is more like a low deep hum from the entire razor. It sounds more like a sharp fine toothed file being dragged across a well secured piece of dense steel. Thinking about that now, that might be caused by the hollow handle resonating. I only hear that when shaving ATG and mostly under my chin and the sides of my mouth where my growth is the most dense.

 

[JoWolf]

If you think you're getting feedback, you must be. We all would interpret that our own way.

My Grande outperforms every other DE razor I've used because of the generous blade exposure, the rigid design and the short guard span distance. There is no other razor I'm aware of, modern or vintage, that combines those three design elements. The next closest would be the Gillette Old Type but because they have less blade exposure they arent as efficient. My Grande is, easily, twice as efficient as my Old Types and NEW SC. My R41 cant even compete because it lacks so much baseplate support I cant even shave ATG without doing two full passes first, one WTG and one directly XTG. The lack of blade support kills the efficiency. Shaving first pass WTG, with a Derby Extra blade in my Grande and a fresh Feather in my R41, they both shave equally close. My Grande however, is a far more secure feeling shave.

The more rigid the design, the less the blade can vibrate, the less audible feedback you'll get. When I use a Gillette Yellow to shave #6, I feel nothing and hear very little. What little I do hear are the hairs being cut, yes. On shave #7 they start to tug but I've used one to 9 shaves. They're done on shave 7 for me though.

All of my top blades in my Grande are very quiet and what I normally hear is more like a low deep hum from the entire razor. It sounds more like a sharp fine toothed file being dragged across a well secured piece of dense steel. Thinking about that now, that might be caused by the hollow handle resonating. I only hear that when shaving ATG and mostly under my chin and the sides of my mouth where my growth is the most dense.

My Grande outperforms every other DE razor I've used because of the generous blade exposure, the rigid design and the short guard span distance. There is no other razor I'm aware of, modern or vintage, that combines those three design elements.

My respect grows for the Grande with every use. Are you going to try their slant out?

The more rigid the design, the less the blade can vibrate, the less audible feedback you'll get

With the Yaqi being the noisiest the extra channels in the head are probably part of the reason. I’ll try not to overthink it too much. The better understanding of the razors does raise my enjoyment using them.

 

[Esox]

My respect grows for the Grande with every use. Are you going to try their slant out?

I havent decided yet. I really like the handle on the slant but since I use SE's 90% of the time I dont know if I'll bother.

With the Yaqi being the noisiest the extra channels in the head are probably part of the reason. I’ll try not to overthink it too much. The better understanding of the razors does raise my enjoyment using them.

'Dont think, just shave' is pretty good advice. The time to think is when you're having problems and then trying to understand why while correcting them.

 

[JoWolf]

Wednesday May 13
SHAVE #7
GC.68OC (New Handle 1st.Use)
Voskhod (1)
OUMOBRUSH-SHD SILK HMW Slivertip Knot gel tip - OUMOBRUSH Acrylic & Wood handle 26mm, 60mm loft Measured 46mm loft from glue bump (1st. Use)
RazoRock Pre - Shave Soap - Charcoal Lime
Martin de Candre Rose Shaving Soap (1st. Use)
Alum Block
Hyaluranoic Acid
Thayers Rose Petal Witch Hazel
Lucky Tiger After Shave & Face Tonic
Pinaud Lilac Vegetal (1st. Use)

Racing towards a dozen shaves. Brush and razor rotations in order. I can match my soaps to brushes. Artisan soaps to the horse and boars. I want to use them up. I do not dislike them. I find they all have fragrances that are just a bit to bright for me. I prefer stronger fragrances after the shave. Performance wise, post shave, their similarities are fairly equal, not enough for me to consider replacing any of them.

I have four MdC samples, Rose for three shaves. I’m comparing it to my only SV, Felec Aromatica. The Rose may not be a croap because it is stiffer, but it is not a hard soap either. I used my silicone collapsible slow feed dog bowl to hold the sample. If you are into samples. You need this bowl. I exclusively face lather. Loading the brush off the wedged in sample, was a breeze. Upon completing three face and head shaves it will be easy to plunk the sample back into it’s container. This is the first rose scent I’ve tried. I found it similar to the Felce. Rose not too strong, the scent has a pleasant refinement about it. I guess Im saying I prefer the SV and MdC fragrances. It does not lather as readily as SV. I judge glide and residual slickness on second and third passes because of pre shave use. The rose has a nice slick under coat beneath the top lather and better residual glide than the SV. Rose’s glide and residual glide isn’t any better than MWF. Post shave feel better than SV but no better than MWF. Two more uses may bring more attributes to light.

SHD SILK HMW Silvertip knot 26mm, loft 60mm. Oumo considers a chubby knot to be 60 - 62 mm. It looks and feels like a chubby. Silk being the key word and it has the softness and certainly paints and glides with a very silky feel. After using one 24mm silvertip for over three decades. All the reflexes of a silvertip I am used to feeling come through in this brush. Comparatively dynamic in feel with a tight precision and sublime comfort. All brushes I soak minimum ten minutes. Squeeze as much water out with a firm grip. Load damp brush to capacity. All performance aspects of this brush start and end with a large amount of comfort. Loads, paints lather on very well. The nicest medium scrub with that silky softness. The measured 46mm workable loft from glue bump finished paint strokes very smoothly. Of my six brushes in rotation this brush requires the least amount of care. Every time I combed it the hairs were always in place and didn’t require any combing. It is considerably softer than my Plisson Silvertip. Although this wish first use I have hand lathered the brush enough to establish a familiarity with it. I couldn’t be happier to have this very fine badger brush in my rotation. The knots I fitted feel a little extra special and I am very happy with the results.

The last shave with the GC.68OC felt as though I was fighting the handle weight too much. No problem lighter Chinese handle. The 35.1gram weight reduction is appreciated for that blind third pass on the back of my head. I liked the heavier handle until I started using the Grande and Yaqi. The Grande is 68.6. The 71.4 is now closer to the Grande. First two fingers and thumb choked as close to the head as balance permits is the same hold I use on all razors. The Grande of the three razors for balance and maneuverability is in its own class. The GC.68OC and the Yaqi cannot get there and have to fight it out for second and third.

The handle length is longer than I like but the weight reduction was a lot more comfortable. I really didn’t get used to the weight difference or balance until my fifth or second head pass. Extremely rare for me three micro weepers which immediately sealed because of the cold water. All passes were extremely smooth and comfortable but the weepers said too close. All face passes I shaved steep looking for the angle while trying to get used to the new weight and balance. Neck was predominantly shallow angle. With my error in not keeping the blade off the skin easily scored BBS. The head shave is when the balance and weight found the happy spot. A comfortable BBS. The alum lit up most of my sensitive neck spots. Good lather performance and post shave soothed the warm spots.