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Couldn’t Wait

I've gone back to flattening my blade more and doing three passes. Today I wanted to do a Daily Double, so I used a 1920's New type View attachment 987699 Gillette for a second pass on sides only. The rest and clean up was with the 136. Torrey referred to this razor as the 136, but etched Our 136 on the blade.

Generally I hold my blade very flat, but I find a 30° angle ATG on my neck an coming down around my chin does a much better job for whatever reason. My pressure is very light though.


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Used the Salamander again using three passes or two with a more detailed last pass. Again, using a flatter angle and getting less audibles. So, I am shaving rather than scraping as a member once said.
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
Been catching up.

I'm not sure there's an angle that's "right." I say that knowing that I tend to like the razor about as flat to my skin as I can get it to shave. However, the key words here don't revolve around flat. They revolve around "get it to shave" which varies some with what I'm doing and where.

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The angle varies a lot less if the razor is very sharp.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 
Been catching up.

I'm not sure there's an angle that's "right." I say that knowing that I tend to like the razor about as flat to my skin as I can get it to shave. However, the key words here don't revolve around flat. They revolve around "get it to shave" which varies some with what I'm doing and where.

View attachment 988027

The angle varies a lot less if the razor is very sharp.

Happy shaves,

Jim
I was using too steep an angle. By decreasing the shave was better and smoother using the same edge.
 
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Multiple face passes with the 15/16 F. Herder I got from JR plus a cleanup on corners and chin with the FFSS followed by lip, side burn, and nostril work from the OTE Schick.
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
Multiple face passes with the 15/16 F. Herder I got from JR plus a cleanup on corners and chin with the FFSS followed by lip, side burn, and nostril work from the OTE Schick.

here-jpg.988307


I identify the razors but what are these - FFSS & OTE - abbreviations? Maybe my computer isn't turned on yet this morning.

Interesting array of tools. I never use several razors except when testing one edge against another, but like how you do things differently from me.

I'm still looking for a Herder. I didn't win the Herder auction I participated in a few days ago. No rush.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 
here-jpg.988307


I identify the razors but what are these - FFSS & OTE - abbreviations? Maybe my computer isn't turned on yet this morning.

Interesting array of tools. I never use several razors except when testing one edge against another, but like how you do things differently from me.

I'm still looking for a Herder. I didn't win the Herder auction I participated in a few days ago. No rush.

Happy shaves,

Jim
Folding Feather SS is FFSS and Opening Type E is OTE.....LOL!!

Yeah, for me just getting to shave once a day, multiple tools is my only option. That said, the Schick is perfect for my side burns and nostril areas. Could I set the burns with the straight, I could if I wore them longer but my glasses get in the way as short as I wear them.

You won a beauty yesterday. :a14::a14::a14:
 
John and Wade.jpg

Ready for Saturday. We shall see if the Coticule followed by the Thuringian did something for the ancient Wade and Butcher.

Oh, almost forgot. My mentor @steveclarkus gifted me some Palmolive tube shave soap. I had to lather to see. Wow, looks like this could be my soap of the future. Nice fragrance, contains glycerin, and feels great.
 
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Used the ancient Wade and Butcher on the first and part of the clean up passes. The John Holler for the rest.

Of course the W&B was made in Sheffield while the Holler made in Germany.
 
Just as I have been thinking, the best way to judge an edge is with subsequent passes. The Wester Bros. is sharp, very sharp. I would expect nothing less than from a Steve Clark prepared edge. The first pass felt like some of my edges on two razors that come to mind, maybe others. However, the second pass with a feather light touch resulted in lots of hair cutting and a close, smooth shave.
 
I'm learning that some razors are just going to turn out to be sharper than others using the same progression. And, those sharp razors are not expensive. Barber supply razors imported from Germany are among the most sharp in my collection.
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
I'm learning that some razors are just going to turn out to be sharper than others using the same progression. And, those sharp razors are not expensive. Barber supply razors imported from Germany are among the most sharp in my collection.

I agree.

Also some razors need in order to get really sharp more than others. Razor X might be very sharp after progression A, whereas Razor Y might need progression A + another finishing stone. Etc.

Sometimes it just seems like magic, but I know it's really just a guy rubbing steel on rocks until it's sharp.

Mostly right now I'm using the Chosera 1k on chips and such and when I know the bevel really really needs to be set. Otherwise I'm using the Double Convex Ark 8x3 for everything, but some edges need more time, work, rounds, laps, effort, etc. on the DCA.

And so it goes.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 

steveclarkus

Goose Poop Connoisseur
I agree.

Also some razors need in order to get really sharp more than others. Razor X might be very sharp after progression A, whereas Razor Y might need progression A + another finishing stone. Etc.

Sometimes it just seems like magic, but I know it's really just a guy rubbing steel on rocks until it's sharp.

Mostly right now I'm using the Chosera 1k on chips and such and when I know the bevel really really needs to be set. Otherwise I'm using the Double Convex Ark 8x3 for everything, but some edges need more time, work, rounds, laps, effort, etc. on the DCA.

And so it goes.

Happy shaves,

Jim
I’m beginning to find some razors are simply more capable of ultra sharpness than others. For example, I have a vintage Dovo Special I cannot get the degree of sharpness I prefer no matter how or how much I hone it. It is an attractive razor so I will keep at it.
 
I’m beginning to find some razors are simply more capable of ultra sharpness than others. For example, I have a vintage Dovo Special I cannot get the degree of sharpness I prefer no matter how or how much I hone it. It is an attractive razor so I will keep at it.

I have a stainless Friodur that seems to take an edge better than my carbon Bismarck, Flowing, and Ralph Aust. Still trying to rationalize that.


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[QUOTE="Twelvefret, post: 10227927, member: 120881" The blade is just North of 4/8. It has my favorite full concave or shoulderless grind. To say this razor is sharp is an understatement.

My favorite and sharpest razors are 4/8 blades. It seems that they are woefully underappreciated on the forum.[/QUOTE]
I tend to agree with this, their agility is unrivaled!
 
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