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Part 2 - The Partial Zamack Solution

Many users say they will never buy a zinc alloy (zamack) razor because it won't last until the second or first coming of their favorite deity although I've already shown that non zamack razors have their own shortcomings. Posting space didn't allow me to completely finish my previous post on zamack and non-zamack razors.
The main 2 weaknesses with zinc alloy are with the screws. First they are i think soldered on and can break off easier. And of course the second one is corrosion. With this I can easily help you. Some people say they will coat the threads with oil or cocoa butter etc. Well what i have always done is pick a color of auto touch up paint. I have rustoleum universal grey that I picked because not only did I use it to cover the screws AND just above the screws but also touch up some scraped areas on my skim with the pen portion not brush portion of the paint container. Not bad for 5 bucks. You can also buy metallic silver matching your razor head very well. Just bring your razor into an auto parts store and they will match it for you. When you apply the paint to the screw and above the screw to the underside of the make sure to allow it to dry overnight. Most touch up paint comes as a primer an paint nowadays.
 
I have both types and love them both, love my Gillette, GEM, Valet because they teached me about designs, materials and razors history, but I also love my Merkurs because of the shaves and looks. About the Zamak ones, really doesn't worry me if the razor lasts 5-10 years because even worst case scenario, $30 divided in 5 years, that's an expense I can live with. Also I try to buy 2 piece Zamak razors like the 34G or the 39C, because they have less stress on the screw.

And probably the heirloom ones are going to finish on a charity bin or in the trash...
 
Also I try to buy 2 piece Zamak razors like the 34G or the 39C, because they have less stress on the screw.

Many zamak razors actually have brass screws and threads. The last I heard, Progress was like this (mine definitely is), as are many of Muhle’s razors.
 

ajkel64

Check Out Chick
Staff member
If people don’t like zamack razors that is fine. More for me to buy. They will outlive me and if I like a razor I will buy it what ever it is made out of.
 
My point helps exactly those who want to purchase - stay away from zamack!

Zamak bottom plates are fine for me - no thread there. But painting a zamak thread? No way. And what about the thread in the handle - that's where the thread disintegrated on my Rockwell 6C. I can see the OP is trying to be helpful here, and that's fine and good. But a lot of guys are just going to pass on the whole idea.

I love metals and objects made of metal. I don't love chrome very much because it hides the raw metal. Chrome is for car bumpers. Anodising can look nice, though.
 
Many users say they will never buy a zinc alloy (zamack) razor because it won't last until the second or first coming of their favorite deity although I've already shown that non zamack razors have their own shortcomings.

Brass and stainless do not fail like pot metal. How can you suggest you've "shown" something?

As @tonich writes, a vintage razor can be had for less than $10. I paid $7 for a '47 Super Speed with obvious use with the brass showing through the cap. Can a pot metal razor survive 70 years? Would you think, based knowledge of materials, a pot metal razor is more of less likely to last this long?
 
Zamak bottom plates are fine for me - no thread there. But painting a zamak thread? No way. And what about the thread in the handle - that's where the thread disintegrated on my Rockwell 6C. I can see the OP is trying to be helpful here, and that's fine and good. But a lot of guys are just going to pass on the whole idea.

I love metals and objects made of metal. I don't love chrome very much because it hides the raw metal. Chrome is for car bumpers. Anodising can look nice, though.
If you know the screw is zamack it will completely protect it from corrosion. I've been doing it for several years and it does NOT come off. The layer is infinitesimal..You can choose the color you want. I said I used universal grey for my screw. If you have a scratch or scrape on you razor head you can go to an auto parts store and match the color and shine quite nicely or let your zamack head start to rot. Sheesh. Why did your thread disintegrate in the 6c? Was it moisture corrosion? If that is the case then coating the screw will prevent that.
As to your point that many will pass on doing this; of course they will. A few may do it.
I think you have never used auto touch up paint. It is very tough and stays on the metal practically forever. That's why it is for AUTO BODIES. It won't come off the screw or the razor head.
 
Does the chrome on pot metal razors serve as a protection for the base material?
Yes. And if the chrome scratches or peels off then it needs to be covered right away or the moisture will corrode away the underlying zinc alloy. That is why I recommend using auto body scratch repair paint. Ignore the "paint" word. It is highly durable and very resistant to wear, which is why it is used on vehicles.
 
If I may suggest, perhaps a thread, "Care and Use of the Zamak Razor," might draw less criticism and be more beneficial, rather than comparing them.:001_cool:

Twelvefret, yes, the chrome serves as a protectant for Zamak. It's most basic difficulty is that Zamak is veeerrry soft, and deforms much more easily than brass. The surface chrome is actually harder than the Zamak, and so, if dented, the chrome flakes off because it has pulled away from the base metal. This is the same reason that firearm finishers won't apply Hard Chrome (harder and different than Show Chrome) to aluminum frames.
 
Thanks for the info about the toughness of auto paint. I'll bear that in mind. Very helpful.

No idea why the thread disintegrated in my 6C handle. I'm guessing that it would be harder to paint the interior thread of a handle with auto paint than an easily accessible top cap thread.
 
Brass and stainless do not fail like pot metal. How can you suggest you've "shown" something?

As @tonich writes, a vintage razor can be had for less than $10. I paid $7 for a '47 Super Speed with obvious use with the brass showing through the cap. Can a pot metal razor survive 70 years? Would you think, based knowledge of materials, a pot metal razor is more of less likely to last this long?
Can I expect to survive for 70 more years?
 
If you know the screw is zamack it will completely protect it from corrosion. I've been doing it for several years and it does NOT come off. The layer is infinitesimal..
The chrome finish wears on the cap thread interface with the handle so no amount of paint can give it that long term protection. I regularly use machine oil to limit that friction wear and it seems to be effective in also keeping the water from the friction area.
I would happy to get a 5 year lifespan from a zinc alloy razor in daily use and a 5 year life cycle costing against cartridges keeps the DE razor well ahead; I recently noted a 10 month supply of 10 Fusion cartridges costing £24 (1 cartridge a month was Gillette's expectation). For instance, a Merkur 34C costs £34 including delivery so even with the DE blades added it is the better option. I expect the zinc alloy razors, with reasonable care, would last well beyond 5 years.
There seems to be some growth in stainless steel and brass razors but there is still a very large market for zinc alloy razors.
 
Thanks for the info about the toughness of auto paint. I'll bear that in mind. Very helpful.

No idea why the thread disintegrated in my 6C handle. I'm guessing that it would be harder to paint the interior thread of a handle with auto paint than an easily accessible top cap thread.
Not at all. Very easy. The tube comes with a small brush. Perhaps a good idea to also lubricate the inside with vaseline afterwards if you so desire.
 
Brass and stainless do not fail like pot metal. How can you suggest you've "shown" something?

As @tonich writes, a vintage razor can be had for less than $10. I paid $7 for a '47 Super Speed with obvious use with the brass showing through the cap. Can a pot metal razor survive 70 years? Would you think, based knowledge of materials, a pot metal razor is more of less likely to last this long?
Thank you for your perspective.
 

AimlessWanderer

Remember to forget me!
My zamac razor has served me well. It's over five years old, and I haven't had to replace anything yet. It is showing signs of use, as I don't rotate through three dozen razors before using it again. It gets used for the vast majority of my shaves, and it's still performing like it should.

Lets say for sake of arguement, that my zamac razor costs me an average of £10 every five years in maintenance (replacement caps etc), which as I've just said, is more than it has actually cost me. On that basis, I would need to live, and continue go get parts for my razor, for 30+ more years before I'm even approaching what a low end stainless razor would cost me. I would consider me living to that age unlikely.

There is nobody in my family who would be remotely interested in inheriting something I shaved with, so spending big money for a razor to last longer than me, is a complete waste of money. It makes far more sense economically, to keep maintaining my razor that gives me fantastic shaves, than it does to go on a mission of finding something that isn't zamac, but shaves me just as well as my Jagger does. (Before anyone suggests it, I already tried a Fatip, and it was dreadful).
 
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