If I could it would be a Shapton Pro 1.5K, 9u, 3u, and 1u films, a Coticule Bout, and a JNAT.
New to honing. If you could start over which stones would you buy?
- Thread starter Badkarma
- Start date
I went and bought a Shapton pro 1.5k, and found a 5k, 8k, and a 12k and a dark blue escher on craigslist. It just so happened that my progression matched. My problem is that I'm curious. I want new finishing stones. I want new bevel setters...I want to compare! not because i think the new stones will be better, but because i want to know.
For me, I made the correct decision from the start. I had a packet of films so I decided first on a Thuringian and later a Coticule.
Meets are great for this kind of experimenting and knowledge.
i'm sure they would be, but i assume there's not a lot of them in oregon
haven't heard of any yet at leastThere is the Seattle meet. Not sure how much honing goes on there, but it could.i'm sure they would be, but i assume there's not a lot of them in oregon
+1
Every one of us has a personal preference for the specific type of edge you like for shaving. The only way to find out your preference is to try a lot of different edges.
I have a full set of Naniwa Sharpening Stones, a Shapton 16K glass backed ceramic and today I just received my new Suihiro G20K. However, in addition to these synthetics, I also have quite a few natural stones, which I also enjoy using. Sometimes different razors require a different combination of hones and techniques to achieve an optimal combination of sharp and smooth for my beard and skin. I am always trying to find the combination that will produce the perfect edge for me. Unfortunately, the only way you can do that is through experimentation. Comments from others are helpful, but may not get you where you want to be.
oh, maybe i just don't look around in the right part of the forum! where do they discuss these things?
finding the specific progression that works for your face is difficult sometimes, but i've noticed that the biggest difference is how you finish. I can progress through my stones, and go back to a Thuri and get a different edge than if i skip the 12k and go to the Thuri. Or when i went through my progression and tried the Jnat it was different even.
kelbro
Alfred Spatchcock
No sir. Sold it to a Dr. that lives in Oz.
Best stone, is the next one!
There are so many stones to be found for so cheap, that is dificult to limit itself to a single rotation. This is like food, variety is enjoyable.
There are so many stones to be found for so cheap, that is dificult to limit itself to a single rotation. This is like food, variety is enjoyable.
There's what works right out the gate, and there's the path of learning and fun and occasional frustration.
For me, they both start with sandpaper on acrylic. 400 grit sandpaper on a 9x11 acrylic plate for lapping, 1200 sandpaper on a 3x12 acrylic plate for setting the bevel.
After the above, what I call grinding, then it goes to polishing and that's where it diverges.
What works right out the gate are synthetics like naniwa super stones, 3k, 8k, 12k. Buy the thick ones. Put them on acrylic plate, hold them up in the air and keep them lapped flat.
The path of learning and fun and occasional frustration, also starts with sandpaper on acrylic for lapping and bevel setting but then moves on to natural stones with naguras or diamond plates to create slurries. Like the world of jnats or the world of coticules. But then it's more than just getting a good feel for honing, it's also about learning slurries and looking for the tells.
For me, they both start with sandpaper on acrylic. 400 grit sandpaper on a 9x11 acrylic plate for lapping, 1200 sandpaper on a 3x12 acrylic plate for setting the bevel.
After the above, what I call grinding, then it goes to polishing and that's where it diverges.
What works right out the gate are synthetics like naniwa super stones, 3k, 8k, 12k. Buy the thick ones. Put them on acrylic plate, hold them up in the air and keep them lapped flat.
The path of learning and fun and occasional frustration, also starts with sandpaper on acrylic for lapping and bevel setting but then moves on to natural stones with naguras or diamond plates to create slurries. Like the world of jnats or the world of coticules. But then it's more than just getting a good feel for honing, it's also about learning slurries and looking for the tells.
I’ve used and kept my this setup, that was relatively budget friendly:
- 400 / 1000 grit CKTG combo diamond plate for lapping stones and some heavy grinding. CKTG Combination Diamond Plate 400/1,000
- Naniwa 1000 Traditional Stone (cheaper version)
- Norton 4000/8000 Combo Stone
- Naniwa 12000 Super Stone (thinner one)
- One rubber/metal stone holder.
- Thread starter
- #35
Thank you sir. I enjoy hearing from everybody.
My needs are fairly minimal, keeping a few razors and knives sharp.
I've had the Shapton 1.5K & 5K for years no and feel no need to upgrade.
For razor finishing I use a Japanese natural from Alex.
For lapping and heavier work I have a DMT which is pretty well worn now, the Atoma plates are on my list but wet/dry paper does lapping work just fine.
I've had the Shapton 1.5K & 5K for years no and feel no need to upgrade.
For razor finishing I use a Japanese natural from Alex.
For lapping and heavier work I have a DMT which is pretty well worn now, the Atoma plates are on my list but wet/dry paper does lapping work just fine.
I would keep my atoma 400 for lapping and heavy work. They dont wear easaly.
Bevel setting stone, i have the shapton glass 500 and 2000 for that, but if starting again i would probably just go for a 1k.
A Japanese natural (awasedo) so i can straight progress to a finish.
But i love my coticule too much, so a coticule aswell!
Bevel setting stone, i have the shapton glass 500 and 2000 for that, but if starting again i would probably just go for a 1k.
A Japanese natural (awasedo) so i can straight progress to a finish.
But i love my coticule too much, so a coticule aswell!
Easiest route IMO is using lapping film, they are more available than the stones you will really want and very fine. If you like stones and sharpen kitchen/hunting knifes get a couple of stones 600, 1200 and 8000, use the lapping film to finish. Pasted balsa, strops with diamond sprays/crox is all used with success and anything in between.
I dont think there is something like doing it right the first time. Your honing routine will most likely evolve over time. Experimentation is required to find a repeatable result that gives smooth clean shave.
I dont think there is something like doing it right the first time. Your honing routine will most likely evolve over time. Experimentation is required to find a repeatable result that gives smooth clean shave.
Everything is depending on what you do and what you like.
I got a diverse setup of stones just because i don't only hone razors, i also sharpen my kitchen knifes.
My setup started for the knifes and progressed to razors.
My lineup to choose from is:
Synthetics:
Atoma diamond plate 140 grit
Shapton Pro 240 grit moss, Naniwa Pro/Chosera 600, Naniwa Pro/Chosera 1K, Ohishi 3K, Shapton Pro 5K, 8K, 12K
A Franz Swaty hone
Naturals:
1 Swedish Gotlandsbryne aprox 400 grit
1 Swedish Orsabryne aprox 600 grit
1 homemade Brazilian floor slate hone 3-4000 grit somewhere
1 Cretan boulder 4,5kg hybrid hone i think it covers 2K-6K depending on side used.
1 Hard Arkansas
3 possibly Thuringian Schwedensteins (Mottled hones)
1 Vermio Greek hone
1 Thuringian
1 Jnat of disputed origin and a mikawa progression from Tenjyu, Mejiro, Koma. To the jnat i also got a matching Tomo that is super nice.
Of all hones i would say that the only one i could be without is the Ohishi, all others i use in one way or another on a weekly basis, i think i'm like Keith here, i like to try things out.
The Jnat and the mikawas is what i try to learn for the moment.
There is not one type of stone for everything, some stones is better suited for carbon steel others for stainless steel and yet again different hrc grades within same steeltype makes the stone react differently.
For the rough work i rely on synthetics, for fine work i rely mostly on naturals. For knifes its all synthetics.
Best regards
Mackis
I got a diverse setup of stones just because i don't only hone razors, i also sharpen my kitchen knifes.
My setup started for the knifes and progressed to razors.
My lineup to choose from is:
Synthetics:
Atoma diamond plate 140 grit
Shapton Pro 240 grit moss, Naniwa Pro/Chosera 600, Naniwa Pro/Chosera 1K, Ohishi 3K, Shapton Pro 5K, 8K, 12K
A Franz Swaty hone
Naturals:
1 Swedish Gotlandsbryne aprox 400 grit
1 Swedish Orsabryne aprox 600 grit
1 homemade Brazilian floor slate hone 3-4000 grit somewhere
1 Cretan boulder 4,5kg hybrid hone i think it covers 2K-6K depending on side used.
1 Hard Arkansas
3 possibly Thuringian Schwedensteins (Mottled hones)
1 Vermio Greek hone
1 Thuringian
1 Jnat of disputed origin and a mikawa progression from Tenjyu, Mejiro, Koma. To the jnat i also got a matching Tomo that is super nice.
Of all hones i would say that the only one i could be without is the Ohishi, all others i use in one way or another on a weekly basis, i think i'm like Keith here, i like to try things out.
The Jnat and the mikawas is what i try to learn for the moment.
There is not one type of stone for everything, some stones is better suited for carbon steel others for stainless steel and yet again different hrc grades within same steeltype makes the stone react differently.
For the rough work i rely on synthetics, for fine work i rely mostly on naturals. For knifes its all synthetics.
Best regards
Mackis
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