Alden Shoe Restoration v. B. Nelson Shoe Restoration

[paintflinger]

@johnniegold ,

thank you for all of the quality threads you've started over the years.

sincerely,
paintflinger

I've got a small crack in some C&J wingtips that I bought used. I need to figure out if I want to get them patched and stitched or just wear them out. I paid less than $200 for them.

 

[The Knize]

http://www.keikari.com/english/prince-charles-40-year-old-lobbs/

 

[johnniegold]

PART I - THE PACKAGING

 

[johnniegold]

PART II - THE RESTORATION

And there you have it. The restoration of the Alden Shell Cordovan Leisure Hand Sewn Loafer is now complete.

They retail these days for about $775. This pair falls somewhere in the range of 10-15 years old. The cost to replace them is out of the question but $175 to restore them, IMO, is a no-brainer.

Take care of your shoes and they will take care of you.

 

[johnniegold]

@johnniegold ,

thank you for all of the quality threads you've started over the years.

sincerely,
paintflinger

I've got a small crack in some C&J wingtips that I bought used. I need to figure out if I want to get them patched and stitched or just wear them out. I paid less than $200 for them.

Thank you for that. @paintflinger

As for the C&J’s, I guess the suggested repair might be a crapshoot but will it extend the life of the shoe I guess is a main factor. You can always send a picture of it to Nick at B. Nelson and he will give you an honest assessment.

Good luck and post some pics should you decide to make the repair.

johnnieg,

Great thread. Re the crack on the side, I have never had real shell shoes, but that is the type of thing that generally kills off my best calf and other steer-hide shoes. I do not recall it ever looking like it was caused by anything structural in the shoes. I have taken or sent shoe to various places--Corrective Shoe Repair in Washington, DC, used to be excellent, skilled, expensive--and have never seen anything that really did much to repair that kind of damage or even helped hold it off. I would love to know of a shop with some technique for effectively dealing with that.

Again, great thread. Skilled repair of that quality of shoe is always worthwhile in my opinion. Even a tear here and there is not really a flaw and should not prevent one from wearing that quality of shoe. For one thing, indicates one has been buying good shoes for a long time. I think there is--or used to be--a tradition among the "upper crust" in New England of wearing old, used-up but excellent dress shoes--the so-called "Boston cracked-shoe," associated with Adlai Stevenson and Tom Wolf's Bonfire of the Vanities, by legend bought immediately after graduation from one onf the major Ivies and never replaced--and I suspect the reason was just that. That is, to say: "we are old money" and if you do not understand, you are not. There are photos around suggesting Prince Charles may have a similar approach to dress shoes, for whatever reasons. Makes me like him more than I would otherwise.

That said, I can't quite get there myself. I guess I am not old money, or money at all. As one wag said, "Oh, and if you’re going to try this at home, bear in mind that down-at-heel shoes are patrician on Old Money types, but merely bohemian on the middle class." (Actually, if I thought it was actually "bohemian" I might for it. Bohemian is not the descriptor that comes to my mind.)

Thanks for that reference. @The Knize

When doing some research for that repair I did come across the “Boston Cracked Shoe” article (I think at Ask Andy) which had the famous picture of Adlai Stevenson with a huge hole in the sole of his shoe.

I am wearing the shoe in a regular rotation so it may be called into action once a week. I’ll be more mindful of the weather when I wear them but, as you say, this flaw won’t prevent me from wearing this shoe.

I must say that when I wear them, the tear is somewhat difficult to notice but I certainly know it’s there. Whether it be patrician or bohemian is of no consequence. I just want to get as much mileage as I can out of a quality pair of shoes.

 

[Champion of Capua]

PART II - THE RESTORATION

View attachment 955776

View attachment 955777

View attachment 955779

View attachment 955778

And there you have it. The restoration of the Alden Shell Cordovan Leisure Hand Sewn Loafer is now complete.

They retail these days for about $775. This pair falls somewhere in the range of 10-15 years old. The cost to replace them is out of the question but $175 to restore them, IMO, is a no-brainer.

Take care of your shoes and they will take care of you.

View attachment 955780

Great looking shoes! As you say, a no-brainer restoring those beauties. Sorry to see there was nothing to be done to fix the crack in the the other pair, but looks like the patch should get you through the life of that sole and new heels

 

[Doc4]

Looks good, JohnnieGold ... keep walking!

(Actually, if I thought it was actually "bohemian" I might for it. Bohemian is not the descriptor that comes to my mind.)

Now I have to listen to this in the background while reading this thread.

I heard similar things about old Boston money wearing clothes well into the end of their lifespan ... worn cuffs and such. Patches on the elbows of sport coats is probably the most well-known example, which has in some cases become a feature included on new garments rather than added on when finally needed.

Of course, one doesn't get to obtain ... let alone keep for generations ... that "old money" if one is foolish with one's money.

 

[Bhugo]

PART II - THE RESTORATION

View attachment 955776

View attachment 955777

View attachment 955779

View attachment 955778

And there you have it. The restoration of the Alden Shell Cordovan Leisure Hand Sewn Loafer is now complete.

They retail these days for about $775. This pair falls somewhere in the range of 10-15 years old. The cost to replace them is out of the question but $175 to restore them, IMO, is a no-brainer.

Take care of your shoes and they will take care of you.

View attachment 955780

Those look really good. Beautiful shoes!

 

[johnniegold]

NEXT:

2 PAIRS UP FOR RESTORATION:

1). Alden Black Shell Cordovan Medallion Captoe Blucher.

If I’m not mistaken, these just might be the first pair of Aldens I ever purchased. I dare say that they may be 20 years old (if not more). And they look it!

These are going to Alden for the refurb. Now, there is a small tear in the leather on the right shoe. Alden reserves the right to decline a repair request if they believe the shoe is not suitable for repair. I’m willing to go ahead with the repair but if they choose to decline, I will instead send them to B. Nelson to be restored.

If Alden moves ahead with the refurbishment, I should see these shoes sometime in August.

The cost of restoration: $175.00.

The cost to replace these shoes albeit with no tear/crack: $767.00. (and that’s just not happening).

*Here is the slight tear/crack mentioned above.

NEXT UP:

The next pair are going to B. Nelson for restoration. These are a pair of Johnston & Murphy, the Georgetown II model. The ones J&M claims that JFK wore (sure he did.)

I am ordering the Joh. Redenbach sole and heel re-crafting along with flush mounted metal toe plates. I was thinking about adding a leather mid-sole (for a double outsole) as well as convert the current wood heel base to a leather heel base but the cost of those two features would add an additional $80 to the $215.00 cost of the restoration for a shoe that retails for $399.00 (but their website always has them on-sale for $319.00.)

So the quandary I’m faced with is...

Is it worth it to spend $215 to repair a shoe that costs $319? That’s a close call, IMO. I opt to repair them because the uppers are still in very good shape plus you get the Joh. Redenbach sole which is generally accepted to be one of the toughest, best-made leather soles in the world (used mainly by Allen-Edmonds but more notably recommended by world-renowned shoemaker, Laszlo Vass). Therefore, IMO, this shoe is not only being restored but upgraded from its original design.

Frankly, that hole in the bottom of the left shoe appeared pretty quickly. I don’t think these shoes are more than 5 years old and are in a decent-sized rotation.

Upon receipt by B. Nelson, I should get these back by mid-July.

Cost of restoration: $215.00

Cost to replace these shoes: $319.00

For a savings of $696.00, I think I can live with a few blemishes after restoring both of these shoes rather than replacing them. After all, it's the blemishes that gives them their character. At least that’s what I keep telling myself.

You’ll see ‘em, when I see ‘em.

 

[johnniegold]

And away they go....

 

[Jut]

Is there anything you think you could have done differently that would have prevented that crack? I've bought one pair of Alden shell an one pair of AE shell in the last few years and am always looking for tips to make them last.

FWIW, I keep them in trees and brush them after use (which is about once a week for each pair) I also use Venetian shoe polish on them every couple months.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[johnniegold]

Is there anything you think you could have done differently that would have prevented that crack? I've bought one pair of Alden shell an one pair of AE shell in the last few years and am always looking for tips to make them last.

FWIW, I keep them in trees and brush them after use (which is about once a week for each pair) I also use Venetian shoe polish on them every couple months.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I don’t think so. These shoes have been through almost 20 years of northeastern weather. Maybe I should invest in some galoshes.

 

[Basil]

Really awesome thread. I have a pair of Alden Indy’s that I’m tempted to send in for a resole. I’ve had the boots maybe 5 years now worn them around the world and they’ve experience all kinds of weather. Only problem is I’m in Canada, I wonder if Alden will still take the cross border shoes.

 

[The Knize]

I will be interested in what they do with that tear/crack and/or whether they are willing to press ahead with the refurbishment leaving it alone. I would also love to know how to prevent that tearing/cracking. That is where my expensive shoes go bad and I take good care of my shoes--I think!--and live in the Washington, DC area and for the most part I really do not get them wet. I agree that to a point, it simply adds character to the shoes and is not something to abandon a pair of shoes over.

I do like the idea of better quality soles, too. In my experience they made a difference as to longevity. Will Nelson also replace rubber heels with heels of leather with a rubber insert? Pure vanity. I like that look!

 

[johnniegold]

I will be interested in what they do with that tear/crack and/or whether they are willing to press ahead with the refurbishment leaving it alone. I would also love to know how to prevent that tearing/cracking. That is where my expensive shoes go bad and I take good care of my shoes--I think!--and live in the Washington, DC area and for the most part I really do not get them wet. I agree that to a point, it simply adds character to the shoes and is not something to abandon a pair of shoes over.

I do like the idea of better quality soles, too. In my experience they made a difference as to longevity. Will Nelson also replace rubber heels with heels of leather with a rubber insert? Pure vanity. I like that look!

I’m not quite sure what the heel recraft will entail but we are going find out.

 

[Basil]

Another place that gets lots of praise is Brian the bookmaker. Has an Instagram where he show some of his work off. It’s very impressive but he’s been located in Cali.

 

[The Knize]

I’m not quite sure what the heel recraft will entail but we are going find out.

Corrective Shoe Repair in DC, which has a brick and mortar shop near Dupont Circle, has a ship-in shore repair service apparently like B Nelson, seems to give choices for what kind of heel one wants. From rubber, to combo, to all leather. They all seem to be the same price! I wonder if I can have relatively new Allen Edmonds rubber heels replaced with combo to no ill effect.

I have used the place on a walk in basis. They seemed very good, but not out of this world. They seemed to use very high quality soles. I had a crack or tear in one of the shoes like yours. They suggested filling in with a wax of some sort. I was pretty useless.

I would use this place again, but parking is absolutely horrendous over there. I guess I could scooter over!

 

[johnniegold]

To date, since this thread began in 2012, here are the shoes that I have had restored so far:


1) Alden Mahogany Shell Cordovan Straight Tip Blucher - This restoration still going strong over 6 years later.

2) Alden Black Shell Cordovan Norwegian Split Toe Blucher - This shoe has been “in and out of the shop” over the last 6 years and its issues have been chronicled herein but they are still going. Once these soles and heels are done, my guess is they will be retired which is still, barring any unforeseen circumstances, several years away.

3). Alden Black Shell Cordovan Straight Tip Blucher - This restoration was recently completed in December of 2018 and they still look brand new.

4) Alden Color 8 Shell Cordovan Leisure Handsewn Loafer - The most recent restoration from February of 2019. This pair frequently gets the call for casual days at the office or informal affairs on the weekends. This shoe is an indispensable part of my shoe collection as they can be worn with jeans, dress pants and even shorts (although Mrs. Gold does not approve of the last look).

That makes 4 pairs since 2012 (not too excessive) with two more currently out for upgrading for a total of 6 pairs in the last 7 years. Once I receive one of the pairs currently sent out, I will be sending one more pair to Alden which I believe will complete all the shoes I had earmarked for restoration.

Looking back at all of these resto jobs just confirms what I suspected all along...

Spending a little more (along with proper care & maintenance) for well-made shoes, in the long-run, is a sound investment.

 

[The Knize]

<even shorts (although Mrs. Gold does not approve of the last look).>

A time-honored preppy look, if there ever was one. No visible socks, I hope!

I agree completely re investment grade shoes. Although I am probably too old at this point to be buying really good shoes or age-worthy Bordeaux.

 

[johnniegold]

<even shorts (although Mrs. Gold does not approve of the last look).>

A time-honored preppy look, if there ever was one. No visible socks, I hope!

I agree completely re investment grade shoes. Although I am probably too old at this point to be buying really good shoes or age-worthy Bordeaux.

No socks!

As for our age, at this point, I only buy ripe bananas.