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Lapping film is the way to go!

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I decided to use lapping film for the first time and had excellent results. It took a little time to get the right feel for the blade, but I have successfully honed 3 of the 5 blades that I have. I bought a 3” x 12” x 1/2” acrylic plate from tap plastics and the the lapping film from eBay. I will by individual sheets from another source as I need them. I remembered to take my time as speed dosent make a better edge here and when I got to the white sheet I did the paper trick as described in the instructions. I haven’t done my wade and butcher because it has a bit of a smile and my johan engstrom because it needs a new pin so I may seek a professional for the repair and honing on each. Here are some pics to enjoy!
 
Enjoy this trip. It's fun and very inexpensive. Fun we expect. Inexpensive and very, very, good is a rare combination. Sound's like you are using Slash's guide.
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
Ah. Another one has been assimilated. Soon, film shall rule the entire universe.

Film seriously rocks. Now, try the pasted balsa strop progression in the Newbie Honing Compendium, AKA "The Method". Makes your nice film edge look pretty sad.

I really like that French point shoulderless Torrey in the last pic. Nice.
 
Ah. Another one has been assimilated. Soon, film shall rule the entire universe.

Film seriously rocks. Now, try the pasted balsa strop progression in the Newbie Honing Compendium, AKA "The Method". Makes your nice film edge look pretty sad.

I really like that French point shoulderless Torrey in the last pic. Nice.


"Film seriously rocks" no pun intended I'm sure. :a29:
 
I will know more when I have time to use them on the weekends. I tried using the Clauss today, it shaved ok, but I could tell it need a few more passes on the film to be better. I did decide to try the wade and butcher today on the film, but it needs a masters touch to be perfect due to the smile blade but the feeling of a wedge vs a hollow ground shaving is a totally different feeling. Slash thanks for the compliment on the Torrey, I know Twelvefret like that same one as well. I have never seen another one like it or with the same scales either. I did notice today that as I did about 50 passes on each film there was a slight drag and saw even water dispacement toward the end oh each stroke. Im hoping to improve my technique as I get used to it all. The only downer of the day is that the origional plastic twisted tree scales on my Boker King Cutter bit the dust and need replacing. I dont want the cheapy see thru scales so I'm on the hunt for some replacements in white for it. I already have 2 blades in black celluloid and 1 in black bone so i want something a little different to set it apart from the rest like the Torrey is. I'm hoping Larry @ whipped dog has something for me in his used stock pile.
 
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I have once, with a stainless, gone back and started over beginning with the 30 micron sheet in order to make sure I a bevel has been set using the burr method or one sided honing as it's called. I go slow and make sure the razor is not running upon the shoulder. I might do 20 laps on each side and then do 20 more instead of 60 plus in order not to loose count. @steveclarkus gave me that pointer.

My technique is to place my fingers on the blade but no more pressure than necessary to guide. I use a spray bottle to keep the films wet.
 
Little did I know that when you buy lapping film they don't supply the 5 micron in the coffee color, it is the slate color instead. I will go back and go though them in order again this weekend and hopefully experimant and get the edge Im looking for on some of my razors.

Larry
 
Little did I know that when you buy lapping film they don't supply the 5 micron in the coffee color, it is the slate color instead. I will go back and go though them in order again this weekend and hopefully experimant and get the edge Im looking for on some of my razors.

Larry
My packet came with 30, 12, 9, 3, 1, .3, .5 mu. I've used this progression for several old eBay razor hones rendering them shave ready.
 
Ok, thats the same pack i bought. I wish there was a color chart that easily told you what progression to go with. I did find several online and figured most of them out on color and feel, but the shale color sheet is throwing me off and nobody has a listing for it. Twelvefret what was the color progression you used starting with course to fine grit? Im sure it would be helpful not only for me to know but others as well.

Thanks in advance,

Larry
 
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Ok, thats the same pack i bought. I wish there was a color chart that easily told you what progression to go with. I did find several online and figured most of them out on color and feel, but the shale color sheet is throwing me off and nobody has a listing for it. Twelvefret what was the color progression you used starting with course to fine grit? Im sure it would be helpful not only for me to know but others as well.

Thanks in advance,

Larry


Starting from left light green (30) light yellow, blue, pink, darker yellow, white, dark green (.5)

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Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
Are you quite sure? Usually dark gray is 5u, not .5u. White is usually .3u. Light green, 1u. Pink is 3u. There are variations, yeah. Sometimed 5u is dark brown. Blue can be 9u or 40u in 3M film. Yellow is usually 12u. If you are getting your grits mixed up, your results will be meh no matter how hard you work at it.
 
Well, I sure don't want to misinform or cause harm. :)

The color and micron size is listed below are from the seller's product description. I've used these films to successfully set the bevel and hone ten used vintage razors without exception. :a4:

Black = .5 micron = 100,000
IVORY = .3 micron = ~60,000 grit
Green = 1 micron = - 14000
PINK = 3 micron = ~7000 grit
BLUE = 9 micron = ~1800 grit
Yellow = 12 micron = ~1200 grit
Dark Green = 30 Micron 3000 grit
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
Well, I sure don't want to misinform or cause harm. :)

The color and micron size is listed below are from the seller's product description. I've used these films to successfully set the bevel and hone ten used vintage razors without exception. :a4:

Black = .5 micron = 100,000
IVORY = .3 micron = ~60,000 grit
Green = 1 micron = - 14000
PINK = 3 micron = ~7000 grit
BLUE = 9 micron = ~1800 grit
Yellow = 12 micron = ~1200 grit
Dark Green = 30 Micron 3000 grit

Something is very very wrong there. .3 micron is almost twice as fine as .5 micron. 100k grit is almost twice as fine as 60k grit. You got something backwards. Do yourself a favor and forget about the sub micron films, anyway. They are very finicky and tend to form a somewhat harsh and uncomfortable edge. Stop at 1u and switch to .5u, .25u, and .1u diamond on lapped balsa as per the Pasted Balsa Strop thread, for better results at the finish. I am particularly suspicious of the black film. Be very very certain that it is not actually 5u, rather than .5u, and if you persist in using the ivory and black, get it straight once and for all which is finer and which is coarser. Because by micron you have the ivory finer, and by grit size you have the black finer. Which is it? At the very least, drop the black altogether, and run the white only a half dozen laps, over picopaper. I would not be very amazed if this makes a huge difference in your edges. And if you drop the .3u as well, and run the full balsa progression properly, I would be amazed if you are NOT amazed at your new edges.

Sometimes sellers do not have a clue, just something to sell. Try nanolaptech.com or thorlabs.com. They are in the business, not just flipping stuff on fleabay.
 
Something is very very wrong there. .3 micron is almost twice as fine as .5 micron. 100k grit is almost twice as fine as 60k grit. You got something backwards. Do yourself a favor and forget about the sub micron films, anyway. They are very finicky and tend to form a somewhat harsh and uncomfortable edge. Stop at 1u and switch to .5u, .25u, and .1u diamond on lapped balsa as per the Pasted Balsa Strop thread, for better results at the finish. I am particularly suspicious of the black film. Be very very certain that it is not actually 5u, rather than .5u, and if you persist in using the ivory and black, get it straight once and for all which is finer and which is coarser. Because by micron you have the ivory finer, and by grit size you have the black finer. Which is it? At the very least, drop the black altogether, and run the white only a half dozen laps, over picopaper. I would not be very amazed if this makes a huge difference in your edges. And if you drop the .3u as well, and run the full balsa progression properly, I would be amazed if you are NOT amazed at your new edges.

Sometimes sellers do not have a clue, just something to sell. Try nanolaptech.com or thorlabs.com. They are in the business, not just flipping stuff on fleabay.

Lol! Okay. I’m not struggling or having any problems.
 

steveclarkus

Goose Poop Connoisseur
I have been using film since April and see no reason to change. My only exception is that I just ordered a 1k Shapton for bevel setting. The 30u film seems to lose its “bite” too quickly. If you follow the film progression from 1u to diamond pasted balsa, your edges will be beyond belief.
 
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