Skincare Clinic

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Thought it might be interesting to start a thread to dispel some common skin myths: Myth #1 SAUNAS AND PERSPIRATION THROUGH EXERCISE CLEAN THE SKIN - Dirt, impurities and clogged pores occur in the hair follicle. They are the result of a mixture produced by the oil and cells present in the hair follicle. Cleansing the skin means eliminating impurities from these pores. Perspiration is not a cleanser. At best, it may help clean the tiny opening of the SWEAT pores, but perspiration will not cleanse the pore made by the hair follicle, the pores through which oil is secreted.

[Austin]

Nicole, thanks for the tidbit. Please post more.

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Thanks, Austin. Stay tuned for "The Skin Breathes." :)

[rtaylor61]

Thanks, Austin. Stay tuned for "The Skin Breathes." :)

I think I saw that at the drive in back in the '70's! Nicole, thanks for posting. Nothing like good information!

Randy

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Put your hand over your mouth and your nose and see how long you can do this. We breathe air into our lungs w/c is then circulated about the body by the blood stream. The skin does respire - it uses some oxygen from the blood stream and does create some carbon dioxide, but only on the inside! The skin in fact uses very little oxygen compared to the other organs and prefers to do its metabolic thing w/o the help of oxygen (anaerobic metabolism.) Many clients have expressed their hesitancy about using a nite cream (if they tend to be dry for example,) because their skin has to breathe. Now that we have debunked this idea, go ahead and apply as the skin loses more moisture at nite. The supposed means of getting air into the skin is through the pores and we'll be addressing these mysterious little openings in the skin in the next post.

[SSLStudio]

nice good thread ill subscribe to this channel.

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Thanks and welcome!

[Kyle]

Put your hand over your mouth and your nose and see how long you can do this. We breathe air into our lungs w/c is then circulated about the body by the blood stream. The skin does respire - it uses some oxygen from the blood stream and does create some carbon dioxide, but only on the inside! The skin in fact uses very little oxygen compared to the other organs and prefers to do its metabolic thing w/o the help of oxygen (anaerobic metabolism.) Many clients have expressed their hesitancy about using a nite cream (if they tend to be dry for example,) because their skin has to breathe. Now that we have debunked this idea, go ahead and apply as the skin loses more moisture at nite. The supposed means of getting air into the skin is through the pores and we'll be addressing these mysterious little openings in the skin in the next post.
Slow down. I'm still holding my hand over my mouth and nose.:smile:

[letterk]

Slow down. I'm still holding my hand over my mouth and nose.:smile:

Keep holding it there, Kyle. Just a little more...

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Cute. I see you would be a very obedient member of my focus group :)

[mrob]

OK, Kyle. . .now, exhale. . .that's it. Just stay like that. . .that's good. . .hold it. . .I'll be right back. . .I'm just going to grab a quick drink. . .or 2. . .or 3:a54:

[roughrider]

Thanks for the tip.

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

You're most welcome. Stay tuned for "What in the world are these pores??"

[RWelch76]

Gents,

I had the pleasure of conversing with Nicole of Gents, LLC. She sent me the proverbial Mother Load of samples, which arrived today!

I think she sent me 1 (or 2) of just about her entire stock! I will post a review as soon as I use them, especially the shea butter cream.

Later!

[mark the shoeshine boy]

I think I saw that at the drive in back in the '70's! Nicole, thanks for posting. Nothing like good information!

Randy

you told me, that you missed most of that one....all you saw was the black naugahyde of a 70 chevelle....with fog on the windows....:w00t:

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

A question that certainly begs a diagram http://www.enchantedlearning.com/subjects/anatomy/skin/ - scroll down a bit on that page. Skin pores are actually openings in the top of the skin that hook onto just two structures inside the skin, sweat glands and sebaceous (oil) glands. THEY NEVER GO ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE SKIN, as some people believe. They are merely little pipes that let things out of the skin, not into the skin. (Though some materials applied to the skin may travel along the sides of these pipes down to the glands, air is not one of these materials.) We are also born with a pore size which is determined by genetics. If the pores become enlarged, they cannot be reduced to a size w/c is any smaller than the diameter of the genetic pore. If the pores become enlarged, they cannot be reduced to a size w/c is any smaller than the diameter of the genetic pore. This is not a typo and it would certainly behoove those who are "pore obsessed" to reread this statement and repeat before bedtime :) Now Randy, back at the drive-in...certain pores are the openings for hair follicles, each of which has a muscle attached to it, an erector pilli muscle. It is the contraction of this muscle that gives us goosebumps! In relation to shaving, massaging in the cream or shaving soap plumps up the erector pilli muscle, which serves to push the facial hairs up for the cut. Have a great holiday all-

[guenron]

you told me, that you missed most of that one....all you saw was the black naugahyde of a 70 chevelle....with fog on the windows....:w00t:
Hey Mark,
You been takin' niagra for your erector piles too??:yikes:

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Your skin is the first barrier against immunological aggressors, thanks to the Langerhans cells. These cells are formed in your bone marrow and migrate to the skin. As the major immune cell of the skin, their job is to engulf foreign bodies, carrying them to the lymphatic system for process and elimination. They are extemely important in maintaining the body's integrity and may also play a role in locating and eliminating abnormal growths. Unfortunately, they are ultraviolet radiation (UVR) sensitive, and are easily harmed by UVR. So next time you're thinking about applying sunscreen to either avoid a sunburn or for antiaging purposes (the sun is responsible for about 70%), think about protecting your immunity, as the Langerhans cells are the key sentinel on your skin.

[SSLStudio]

Your skin is the first barrier against immunological aggressors, thanks to the Langerhans cells. These cells are formed in your bone marrow and migrate to the skin. As the major immune cell of the skin, their job is to engulf foreign bodies, carrying them to the lymphatic system for process and elimination. They are extemely important in maintaining the body's integrity and may also play a role in locating and eliminating abnormal growths. Unfortunately, they are ultraviolet radiation (UVR) sensitive, and are easily harmed by UVR. So next time you're thinking about applying sunscreen to either avoid a sunburn or for antiaging purposes (the sun is responsible for about 70%), think about protecting your immunity, as the Langerhans cells are the key sentinel on your skin.


Nicole is there such a thing as in different races behave differently towards exposure of UVR. I would think black people in Africa are less prone to UVR sesitivity then white people in Sweden , and mexicans are again less so I think I mean skin color does that protect you ? I never wear sunscreens though I never go out in the sun either..or the beach

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

I apologize for the delay in replying to your post. It's true that the darker the natural skin color, the more melanin the skin has to protect itself. Melanin is found in the skin and is your first line of defense against the sun. It absorbs UV rays in an attempt to limit damage. Although a darker skin will not sunburn as easily as someone who is fair and there is less of an incidence of skin cancer, there can still be a risk of skin damage from excess sun exposure. You can still be at risk for premature skin aging (including wrinkles and uneven skin pigmentation.) I think that you were trying to state that you don't "take sun" per se. Problem is that sun exposure is cumulative. The walk to the car, walking the dog, walking to the store, etc. It all adds up over decades and this is how the damage becomes evident. It wouldn't be a bad idea to use an SPF15 IMO.

[TheChefs]

Short exposures to sun of aroud 5min per day are actually good for the body, since that's how we generate vitamin D. It's a major antioxidant and it's used in bone formation. But aything more then that and it's excessive.

As for dark skin it acts like sunscreen. I've read something ages ago (don't quote me on that) that the skin of a person with really dark black skin would be equivalent to SPF rating of 4 to 8. I can't remember the exact number, but it was quiet low. So if you are going to be out in the sun for long periods of time, put on sunscreen. It's especially true where I live since the ozon is so low, that you can get a bad sun burn in less then 5-10min.

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Since no sunscreen will give you 100% protection from UVB rays, you will generally get enough incidental exposure for vit D synthesis even with sunscreen.

[Soaper]

I have a question to ask you Nicole. I've read your stuff on AAAC and SMF (which is a bit down right now), and I really enjoy your viewpoints. If one wants to treat his skin the way that it should be, what steps does he have to take? I mean, I get so confused with talk of moisturizers, creams, sun screens, exfoliates, etc. What step by step guide should one undertake to take care of his skin correctly? I am completely ignorant of all of these things, and I need some guidance in what to do and what not to do.

Naturally, one could write a book on such a process, so if you could just give us the bare bone, essential things to know, I (and many others, I’m sure) would be most appreciative.

Thanks,

Soaper

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Soaper,

Obviously, what I state is my personal/professional opinion and is with a more holistic approach to skincare.
Cleansing: Depends on how oily your skin is. Generally, cleansing once a day, pm, is preferred to remove dirt (from touching your face, holding phone/cell phone against your face, pollution, etc.) There generally is no need to "clean" am since you have only been laying on a pillow. If you wake up and see an oil slick on your face, then am and pm would be preferred. Otherwise, just splashing with water before applying a moisturizing product would be fine. Look for products which don't use harsh detergents that are stripping to the skin and that contain natural antibacterial ingredients if you're oily (I prefer seaweed.)

Moisturizing: The name of the game in skincare is keeping moisture in the skin. That's why you don't want to apply a moisturizer to dry skin. Leave the face/body damp before applying. An oilier skin would do well with a moisturizer that adds moisture (ie. jojoba oil) while incorporating oil controlling ingredients (I prefer "oil controlling oils" like lavender, thyme, cypress,etc.) Oily skins generally prefer light gels as opposed to creams since the oil in an oilier skin itself acts like glue to keep cells together and to help prevent moisture loss. A drier skin would appreciate a heavier cream with "richer" ingredients like olive oil, shea butter, avocado oil, etc. In general, ingredients like glycerin (preferably of vegetal origin) and hylauronic acid are good b/c they are humectants and pull moisture from the air to the skin. If you are drier, you'll probably want to use a moisturizer at nite as well since the air at nite has less moisture in it. Use what works as the whole day/nite moisturizer distinction is very often more marketing than anything else. The main idea is to protect your skin before heading out. Shaving is also very dehydrating to the skin and so it is very impt to moisturize after shaving.

Exfoliation: Once a week in colder weather and 1-2x/wk in warmer weather is what I recommend, preferably pm (because you are exfoliating when you shave except for areas like forehead and nose.) We have a natural exfoliation process which slows down as we age (to get rid of dead skin.) Many people over exfoliate w/c ultimately causes sensitive skin. We still need a certain barrier on the skin to prevent unwanted things from coming in (ie. bacteria) and precious things from leaving the skin (ie. moisture.) I am not a big fan of acids as they generally work by initiating damage to the skin in order to cause a repair response to the skin. I also don't favor scrubs as most are made from the shells of nuts (like walnuts for example) which are pulverized and the resulting particulate is uneven and can cause microtears in the skin. In addition, the scrubbing motion stimulates the oil glands. You can go natural with a gentle washcloth for the face (w/c you should change often) or use a body brush for your body. The brush is great b/c it also stimulates circulation and lymph flow. If that's not your pleasure, again I prefer seaweed since it softens the hard protein (dead cells) and allows for a more "natural exfoliation."

Sunscreen: As the sun is primarily resonsible for aging, I never leave the house without it. Unfortunately, you typically find most moisturizers with a sunscreen containing chemical sunscreen ingredients which I don't favor at all. Sunscreen should be the last thing applied to your face. I believe I did a separate post on this which goes into more detail on sunscreens in general.

Eye Cream: Also a must as there are no oil glands around the eye area and this skin is much thinner than the skin on the rest of your face and so one of the first areas to show signs of aging. Typically, a moisturizer used on the rest of the face is very often "too heavy" for this thinner more delicate skin. Again, humectants like hylauronic acid are very good for this area. Would use am and pm.

Again, I have my own loves as far as ingredients. Since I'm not at a manufacturer I can take on whatever I like. In my opinion, as far as ingredients go (and given their concentration in a product,) seaweed and oils rock! Seaweed is very similar to what bathes our own cells and it is remineralizing, moisturizing and antibacterial. Science can't duplicate the wonders of plants and these oils are the most occulsive things to trap moisture that you can use on your skin while feeding it. Hope that helps.

[Soaper]

Soaper,

Obviously, what I state is my personal/professional opinion and is with a more holistic approach to skincare.
Cleansing: Depends on how oily your skin is. Generally, cleansing once a day, pm, is preferred to remove dirt (from touching your face, holding phone/cell phone against your face, pollution, etc.) There generally is no need to "clean" am since you have only been laying on a pillow. If you wake up and see an oil slick on your face, then am and pm would be preferred. Otherwise, just splashing with water before applying a moisturizing product would be fine. Look for products which don't use harsh detergents that are stripping to the skin and that contain natural antibacterial ingredients if you're oily (I prefer seaweed.)

Moisturizing: The name of the game in skincare is keeping moisture in the skin. That's why you don't want to apply a moisturizer to dry skin. Leave the face/body damp before applying. An oilier skin would do well with a moisturizer that adds moisture (ie. jojoba oil) while incorporating oil controlling ingredients (I prefer "oil controlling oils" like lavender, thyme, cypress,etc.) Oily skins generally prefer light gels as opposed to creams since the oil in an oilier skin itself acts like glue to keep cells together and to help prevent moisture loss. A drier skin would appreciate a heavier cream with "richer" ingredients like olive oil, shea butter, avocado oil, etc. In general, ingredients like glycerin (preferably of vegetal origin) and hylauronic acid are good b/c they are humectants and pull moisture from the air to the skin. If you are drier, you'll probably want to use a moisturizer at nite as well since the air at nite has less moisture in it. Use what works as the whole day/nite moisturizer distinction is very often more marketing than anything else. The main idea is to protect your skin before heading out. Shaving is also very dehydrating to the skin and so it is very impt to moisturize after shaving.

Exfoliation: Once a week in colder weather and 1-2x/wk in warmer weather is what I recommend, preferably pm (because you are exfoliating when you shave except for areas like forehead and nose.) We have a natural exfoliation process which slows down as we age (to get rid of dead skin.) Many people over exfoliate w/c ultimately causes sensitive skin. We still need a certain barrier on the skin to prevent unwanted things from coming in (ie. bacteria) and precious things from leaving the skin (ie. moisture.) I am not a big fan of acids as they generally work by initiating damage to the skin in order to cause a repair response to the skin. I also don't favor scrubs as most are made from the shells of nuts (like walnuts for example) which are pulverized and the resulting particulate is uneven and can cause microtears in the skin. In addition, the scrubbing motion stimulates the oil glands. You can go natural with a gentle washcloth for the face (w/c you should change often) or use a body brush for your body. The brush is great b/c it also stimulates circulation and lymph flow. If that's not your pleasure, again I prefer seaweed since it softens the hard protein (dead cells) and allows for a more "natural exfoliation."

Sunscreen: As the sun is primarily resonsible for aging, I never leave the house without it. Unfortunately, you typically find most moisturizers with a sunscreen containing chemical sunscreen ingredients which I don't favor at all. Sunscreen should be the last thing applied to your face. I believe I did a separate post on this which goes into more detail on sunscreens in general.

Eye Cream: Also a must as there are no oil glands around the eye area and this skin is much thinner than the skin on the rest of your face and so one of the first areas to show signs of aging. Typically, a moisturizer used on the rest of the face is very often "too heavy" for this thinner more delicate skin. Again, humectants like hylauronic acid are very good for this area. Would use am and pm.

Again, I have my own loves as far as ingredients. Since I'm not at a manufacturer I can take on whatever I like. In my opinion, as far as ingredients go (and given their concentration in a product,) seaweed and oils rock! Seaweed is very similar to what bathes our own cells and it is remineralizing, moisturizing and antibacterial. Science can't duplicate the wonders of plants and these oils are the most occulsive things to trap moisture that you can use on your skin while feeding it. Hope that helps.

With this new information available, can any of you guys on the board recommend products that you guys use that fall into these categories? Which products do you guys use? I've heard good things about John Allan's products.

Thanks,

Soaper

[mrob]

Nicole,

Thanks for the skin care info--this is a good resource for men looking to protect their skin during the warm weather we're having this time of year.

[Jim]

Thanks Nicole! much appreciated!

[SSLStudio]

Hi Nicole,

What is your vision about Glycolic ACid ? I have three bottles at home .

30-50-70 % . it burns incredible on the face the 30% already.
they say beauty salons use it doesnt mean its good or bad? I do notice a nice improvement of skin when I use it. I apply it with a special brush and let it soak on the face about 60 seconds then wash it off with plenty of water.

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

A big you're welcome to everyone. To Rene, It's not just the % of acid that is impt but the ph is EXTREMELY impt. Why are you using these products? What are you trying to achieve? If you are "burning" this is not a good sign and continued use can cause damage to the skin by compromising it's protective barrier. This is one of the reasons why you MUST use sunscreen afterwards. The population at large has gone "exfoliation crazy" and so we are seeing a lot of sensitive skins as a result. Let me know what you want to accomplish and I'm sure we can come up with a safer, healthier solution.

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Aging can be broken down into two primary causes: genetic aging and environmental aging. Genetic aging occurs when our skin's cells begin to degenerate, and the time it takes for these cells to begin to wear out is determined by our DNA. Unfortunately, we can do little to change our inheritance; the good news is that it only accounts for about 30% of our skin's aging. Environmental aging factors are sun, wind, airborn pollutants, medications, smoking, alcohol, poor diet choices and more. Environmental aging accounts for nearly 70% of the aging process and the good news is that this is where we have the most control. So, here's the best ways to fight back in a top 10 countdown, David Letterman-style:

10: Don't skip your home care. You have 60 opportunities a month to nourish, hydrate and protect your skin against environmental damage. Make use of it.

9: Get regular facials. Don't miss out on the more intensive therapy of professional treatments. A deep facial massage every 6 weeks will not only help release deeply embedded toxins, it will also flood skin tissues with fresh, re-oxygenated blood that will bring a metabolic boost to the skin's cell renewal. The treatment is also a great way to decompress and is an opportunity for early detection of skin abnormalities and skin cancer.

8: Manage and reduce stress. The skin acts as a virtual mirror of our inner turmoil, thus accelerating the aging process. Regarding the facial above, facial masage that incorporates digital acupressure is especially impt b/c it affects our body's parasympathetic nervous system, w/c goes "out of whack" when we are overly stressed.

7: Stop overexfoliating. We love it a bit too much. The skin sheds when an irritating acid or chemical is applied and because of this, there is a certain amount of irritation that comes with exfoliation. More is not better. You must allow for "rest periods" between treatments.

6: Counteract inflammation. When the skin is injured in any way, be it through sunburns, the assault of constant exfoliation or any of a long list of other things, the inflammation cascade weakens our skin, breaks down it's defense mechanisms, accelerates aging and free-radical damage and impairs the skin from being able to repair and regenerate itself. The answer to this problem is to minimize exposure to inflammation. The biggest inflammatory aggressors against skin are UV exposure, free radicals and the overuse of harsh acidic and irritating products.

5: Minimize glycation. Glycation is a process that occurs throughout our bodies and increases with age. A sugar molecule bonds with a protein molecule and the protein becomes a "glycated protein," and it becomes weak, brittle or even fractured, making it extremely vulnerable to a free-radical attack. If your diet is high in sugar, it increases the level of glycation throughtout the body and skin. Proteins in our skin, mainly collegen (the skin's foundation,) becomes glycated and very vulnerable to the attack of aging free radicals.

4: Consume vitamins and antioxidants daily. Topically and internally. The skin is nourished to a certain extent by the circulatory system but it's not enough. Internal organs get "first dibs" on ingested vitamins. Make sure that your skincare has nutrients like vitamins, minerals and antioxidants.

3:Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate. Much of our skin's aging process is simply caused by our cells losing moisture. W/o moisture, cellular metabolism cannot occur. Unfortunately, as we age, more and more water evaporates from the skin and because of the slowdown of cell renewal as we age, we produce less and less natural moisture.

2: Become a sunscreen zealot. There is no such thing as a safe suntan. If you think a taning bed is safe, it's actually worse than hitting the beach unprotected. Ever think about why your derriere has no wrinkles?

1: Accept the fact that prevention is easier and cheaper than correction later on.

Best-Nicole

[SSLStudio]

A big you're welcome to everyone. To Rene, It's not just the % of acid that is impt but the ph is EXTREMELY impt. Why are you using these products? What are you trying to achieve? If you are "burning" this is not a good sign and continued use can cause damage to the skin by compromising it's protective barrier. This is one of the reasons why you MUST use sunscreen afterwards. The population at large has gone "exfoliation crazy" and so we are seeing a lot of sensitive skins as a result. Let me know what you want to accomplish and I'm sure we can come up with a safer, healthier solution.

I think I have quite an oily face, Id like to have a smooth healthy looking face with zero outbreak of acne. sometimes I will get this really super healthy look when my face is complete clear zero acne. but like now for example I have some on my face . I hate that Hate any acne at all, Im not a sever case like have Acne everyday and tons of them or else id be at the doctor's office but I need to know how to get that tight looking healthy look in my face ive had it once 3 weeks ago when I already had a clean face and used the glycolic acid on top of it.

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

It's quite possible that you have been over-exfoliating (getting rid of too much of your skins barrier.) This allows bacteria to get into the skin and moisture to get out of the skin. Glycolic acid is traditionally used to help treat wrinkles, sun damage - more weathered skin. If you must use acids, salicylic would be a better choice because it addresses the lining of your pores where the oil is. What exactly is your regimen- cleansing, moisturising, etc???

[SSLStudio]

It's quite possible that you have been over-exfoliating (getting rid of too much of your skins barrier.) This allows bacteria to get into the skin and moisture to get out of the skin. Glycolic acid is traditionally used to help treat wrinkles, sun damage - more weathered skin. If you must use acids, salicylic would be a better choice because it addresses the lining of your pores where the oil is. What exactly is your regimen- cleansing, moisturising, etc???

I have no special regimen at the moment. this week is pretty bad some more acne dots here and there. I use sometimes a cucumber Toner by Kiehl's I use daily the face wash anti acne by Clear&Smooth (some ebay seller) and have or use Carley's daytime moisturiser

[Joedy]

...If you must use acids, salicylic would be a better choice because it addresses the lining of your pores where the oil is...

Nicole,

What does the acid do exactly? Does it break down the oils? If so, what happens to the remains?

-joedy

[tam.audio]

Nicole,

Sorry to add to the bombardment of questions. Is washing one's face every day with a washcloth bad?

Thanks

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

I have no special regimen at the moment. this week is pretty bad some more acne dots here and there. I use sometimes a cucumber Toner by Kiehl's I use daily the face wash anti acne by Clear&Smooth (some ebay seller) and have or use Carley's daytime moisturiser
Is the Clear and Smooth by Carley as well? I can't find a website for the company and so I'm unable to find the ingredients. Is it possible to direct me to a place to find the ingredients or for you to post them in the order in which they are listed on the labels?

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Nicole,

What does the acid do exactly? Does it break down the oils? If so, what happens to the remains?

-joedy
Joedy,

Without getting too technical, salycilic acid is oil-soluble whereas glycolic acid is water soluble. Acne mainly consists of oil, dead skin cells and bacteria to put it very simply. Since salycilic is oil soluble, it works on a deeper skin level b/c it can get down into the follicle (where there is an oil environment) where it helps to slow down the shedding of cells inside the follicle (your pore is the opening of the follicle at the surface of the skin.) So it can penetrate an area where oil is to also break down black heads and white heads. It loosens the bonds between older cells to allow for their removal. Then you can have other ingredients like sulphur or certain botanical oils which work to control the actual oil production of the oil glands. My personal preference is to use algae to act as the exfoliant (instead of salycilic) similar to the way pulp is softened to make paper and to combine algae with either sulfur or botanical oils. The dead cells are basically sloughing off as they make their way to the surface of the skin.

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Nicole,

Sorry to add to the bombardment of questions. Is washing one's face every day with a washcloth bad?

Thanks
Washing your face with a washcloth isn't bad provided you are:
1) Using a relatively soft washcloth.
2) Not using it agressively on your skin - be gentle and
3) Washing the wash cloth frequently or changing it on a daily basis so that it does not become a breeding ground for bacteria (similar to loofahs, etc.)

This is very different from using scrubs and acids to exfoliate. I also recommend dry brushing for the body to exfoliate and stimulate circulation and lymph flow.

[Joedy]

Joedy,

Without getting too technical, salycilic acid is oil-soluble whereas glycolic acid is water soluble....

Thank you for the reply, Nicole.

Of course, this leads to the next question: Should these items be considered as an effective and safe cleaning regimen?


Also, TendSkin works well, but why? Why does the acid prevent ingrown hairs? Does it have anything to do with the above explanation? Should TendSkin be considered a safe regimen?

It's painful to use, but it does provide results.

-joedy

[SSLStudio]

Is the Clear and Smooth by Carley as well? I can't find a website for the company and so I'm unable to find the ingredients. Is it possible to direct me to a place to find the ingredients or for you to post them in the order in which they are listed on the labels?


Does this help you out Nicole ?

http://samus.securehbs.com/~clearand/store/index.php

those products. if you really need to have all the ingredients of the ACNE face wash id need some minutes to hand type it all its a lot its on the bottle I have here.

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Joedy, In my opinion, if something is causing you pain, it should not be used. Ingredients are listed in order of predominance. So, the first ingredient listed is at the highest concentration in the product and so on. You are basically paying for the first three ingred. in a product and if one wants to be a savvy shopper for shaving/skincare products, it would behoove everyone to keep this in mind when making purchases. The first ingred. for Tend Skin is alcohol. I should hope by now that everyone knows that this is extremely dehydrating for the skin and should not be used. The salicylic works by dissolving dead skin cells. Once the dead skin is removed, the trapped ingrown hair can liberate itself. I am going to do a separate post hopefully by this weekend addressing glycolic acid and why I don't particularly like it. In general, people are using way too many products with way too many active ingredients from cleansers to scrubs to moisturizers and this is too agressive in my opinion with regards to maintaining the integrity of the skin.

[Jim]

Hi Nicole

What are the ingredients in this-Intelligents Formula Lev8 Aftershave Gel

You are basically paying for the first three ingred. in a product and if one wants to be a savvy shopper for shaving/skincare products,


Is this the only aftershave product you sell? can you recommend others?

Thanks

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

It seems from the ingredients from the cleanser that there is a particulate in it. Does it feel somewhat "grainy" when you put it on? I am not a fan of this type of cleanser (scrub) because it can cause microtears in the skin. Also, the benzoyl peroxide is also very drying for the skin. If you are very oily, I prefer a moisturizer or treatment cream with sulfer which acts to control the production of the oil glands and/or certain botanical oils which control oil gland production as well. Also, it seems that their moisturizer has soap in it??? Just my comments after a somewhat cursory review.

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Jim, I apologize for the fact that the complete ingredient listings are not on the website since the ingredients (in addition to their concentration) are what really distinguishes the selection compared to other mass market as well as prestige brands. I was chosen to participate in a panel hosted by WCBS and the Wall Street Journal and so time was of the essence in getting the site live with relatively short notice and I had to forgo listing the ingredients. I am working on this somewhat arduous task and hope to have it completed shortly: Distilled water, aloe vera (D-complex), glycerin, D-alpha-tocopherol (Vitamin E), D-glucuronic, L-alpha-bisobolol, rye polyglucose, L-lactic acid, L-menthol, melaleuca (L-complex), allantoin, citric acid, sandalwood, ylang ylang, tangerine, lime, bergamot, beet/liquid crystals, blue chamomile/ liquid crystals. The ingredients are chirally correct. For an explanation of the significance of this, please read the "Chirally Correct Skincare Thread" (one caveat, it does get a bit heated.) We put this up against several "straight aloe products" and the Lev 8 was favored every time. It ices you down in minutes. Many products will list "enriched with aloe" and only include trace amounts of it in the product for example. I do offer another "aftershave gel" by Eminence Organic Skin Care which is called "Stone Crop Hydrating Gel" (I plan to have an organic section on the website in the future.) It offers intense oil-free hydration and antiaging benefits. The ingredients are as follows: Stone Crop Pulp, Stone Crop Juice, Bearberry Extract, Green Tea Extract, Glycerine (plant source), Natural Moisturizing Factor, Lavender Extract, Glycine Deriviative, Xanthan Gum, Biocomplex (Vitamins A-C-E, Coenzyme Q10, Alpha Lipoic Acid), Lavender Oil, Chlorophyl. The stone crop is similar to a cactus in that it holds tremendous amounts of water. It also has incredible regenerative powers. I use the stone crop line from Eminence in my facials for men and they love it and are crazy about the smell. I like clean, effective ingredients in sufficient quantities w/o nasty chemicals. You can also get evening primrose oil, borage oil, jojoba oil and use those as well. IMO, nothing beats the antiinflammatory properties of the Lev 8 for after shaving. If you know of something natural that can outperform it, I would love to know about it.

[SSLStudio]

Joedy, In my opinion, if something is causing you pain, it should not be used. Ingredients are listed in order of predominance. So, the first ingredient listed is at the highest concentration in the product and so on. You are basically paying for the first three ingred. in a product and if one wants to be a savvy shopper for shaving/skincare products, it would behoove everyone to keep this in mind when making purchases. The first ingred. for Tend Skin is alcohol. I should hope by now that everyone knows that this is extremely dehydrating for the skin and should not be used. The salicylic works by dissolving dead skin cells. Once the dead skin is removed, the trapped ingrown hair can liberate itself. I am going to do a separate post hopefully by this weekend addressing glycolic acid and why I don't particularly like it. In general, people are using way too many products with way too many active ingredients from cleansers to scrubs to moisturizers and this is too agressive in my opinion with regards to maintaining the integrity of the skin.


THANKS Nicole ! for reminding me Alcohol de-hydrates the skin , I overlooked that ! I have lots of aftershave here and always wondered if im not overdoing it by using aftershave and then a/s balsem on top of it ! well obviously not because the balsem hydrates the skin back. everyone knows drinking alcohol dehydrates you and so does coffee but I would think no one here is using coffee on their face after shaving are we ? :tongue_sm

its feels I have my own private dermatologist at hand , we are lucky to have someone as knowledgeable as Nicole at here.

[boboakalfb]

Joedy, In my opinion, if something is causing you pain, it should not be used. Ingredients are listed in order of predominance. So, the first ingredient listed is at the highest concentration in the product and so on. You are basically paying for the first three ingred. in a product and if one wants to be a savvy shopper for shaving/skincare products, it would behoove everyone to keep this in mind when making purchases. The first ingred. for Tend Skin is alcohol. I should hope by now that everyone knows that this is extremely dehydrating for the skin and should not be used. The salicylic works by dissolving dead skin cells. Once the dead skin is removed, the trapped ingrown hair can liberate itself. I am going to do a separate post hopefully by this weekend addressing glycolic acid and why I don't particularly like it. In general, people are using way too many products with way too many active ingredients from cleansers to scrubs to moisturizers and this is too agressive in my opinion with regards to maintaining the integrity of the skin.

Hi Nicole...thanks for all of your valuable information. What do you recommend as a regimen for treating ingrown hairs? Tendskin works, but obviously at the detriment of your skin...and sure burns like hell when you use it post shave...

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Hi Nicole...thanks for all of your valuable information. What do you recommend as a regimen for treating ingrown hairs? Tendskin works, but obviously at the detriment of your skin...and sure burns like hell when you use it post shave...
Dear Bob, A bit of an Eastern approach to your question. Do you know why you are getting ingrowns? We should explore this before deciding what product to use b/c it may be a question of you changing your technique. Let me know or I can throw some possible causes your way. Nicole

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Four reasons to avoid regular use of AHA's (like glycolic acid.)

1) They are not physiologically compatible since the ph is too low for normal skin. They alter skin enzymes and denature other skin proteins.

2) They cause an inflammatory reaction in the skin by inducing damage to skin cells. It is the repair process induced by this damage that provides some apparent benefit to the skin, but continued use exhausts this process in many individuals.

3) While the skin must normally exfoliate (shed dead cells,) any excess exfoliation will induce an immature population of cells on the skin surface, cells which are not prepared to defend the skin against environmental dangers.

4) There are so many safer and more effective methods to exfoliate, such as natural enzymes, gentle washcloth, seaweed, etc. that IMO the use of AHAs are not justified.

Check to see if you are using too many products with actives like cleansers and moisturizers containing glycolic acid. I have even heard of cases where people are requesting glycolic peels before a microdermabrasion treatment at the spa - a recipe for disaster including the potential for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (spots.) I hope to do the next post on "diabetic skin."

[Joedy]

Nicole,

What procedures and techniques do you recommend for ingrown bumps once they are already present?

-joedy

[boboakalfb]

Dear Bob, A bit of an Eastern approach to your question. Do you know why you are getting ingrowns? We should explore this before deciding what product to use b/c it may be a question of you changing your technique. Let me know or I can throw some possible causes your way. Nicole
Not sure why...I use to have a huge problem but since switching to wet shaving I have eliminated most of them. I still get them from time to time on my neck though. I have curly hair which contributes to the problem. I don't go against the grain on my neck...just with and across...

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Joedy/Bob, If an ingrown hair exists, do not pick at it or tweeze it. This can result in possible scarring and/or damage to the hair follicle. You want to make sure to moisturize the area where you have the ingrown(s) preferably three times a day. A soft hair is easier to liberate. I recommend a product (w/c I haven't uploaded to the website yet,) called Lerosett. It's a clay and water mixture from Sweden, only two ingredients. It does a very good job of removing the dead skin to allow the hair to come out (it's not an overnite fix) and once it does, you want to shave it off (not pluck it) in the normal course of grooming. Exfoliating once a week helps (not in connection w/shaving though,) change your blade more often, use fewer blades if using a multi-blade razor, and make sure you are softening the hairs enough before shaving (preferably shaving after the shower) and try to leave the cream on longer before beginning to shave (3 mins.)

[SSLStudio]

Four reasons to avoid regular use of AHA's (like glycolic acid.)

1) They are not physiologically compatible since the ph is too low for normal skin. They alter skin enzymes and denature other skin proteins.

2) They cause an inflammatory reaction in the skin by inducing damage to skin cells. It is the repair process induced by this damage that provides some apparent benefit to the skin, but continued use exhausts this process in many individuals.

3) While the skin must normally exfoliate (shed dead cells,) any excess exfoliation will induce an immature population of cells on the skin surface, cells which are not prepared to defend the skin against environmental dangers.

4) There are so many safer and more effective methods to exfoliate, such as natural enzymes, gentle washcloth, seaweed, etc. that IMO the use of AHAs are not justified.

Check to see if you are using too many products with actives like cleansers and moisturizers containing glycolic acid. I have even heard of cases where people are requesting glycolic peels before a microdermabrasion treatment at the spa - a recipe for disaster including the potential for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (spots.) I hope to do the next post on "diabetic skin."


To me it all sounds like WHAT !!!! if Glycolic Acid hurts the skin no ! damages the skin why was it invented in the first place ? and is it being marketed on Ebay as the next best thing like the same stuff beauty parlors use .

Well I guess its just one of those things you really have to investigate deep into just like people who think eating cereals is healthy , or Soja milk. they are both doomed. or White sugar for that matter it will slowly kill you aswell.

[SSLStudio]

Is the Clear and Smooth by Carley as well? I can't find a website for the company and so I'm unable to find the ingredients. Is it possible to direct me to a place to find the ingredients or for you to post them in the order in which they are listed on the labels?



Ingredients Carley's Clear and Smooth Skin treatment

benzoyl peroxide (active) 2% , additional ingred: purified water [natural soap solution saponified oils coconut,olive, soybean,cottonsee,sodium hydroxide,walnut shell powder,shea butter,vegetable glycerin,propylene glycol,apricot kernal oil, vegetable stearic acid,cetyl alcohol,aloe vera,corn meal ,mango butter, emulsifyning wax nf,hemp oil (no thc),macadamia nut oil,xanthan gum,triethanolamine (for ph balance),evening primrose oil,sambucus nigra extract (elder flower),chamomile powder,sodium citrate,citric acid.

No artificial fragrances ,we use only natural EO . a list of them which I think is irrelevant for you Nicole ?

Preservatives : we use a non-paraben bactericide &fungicide :Germall Plus [two ingredietns are diazolidinyl urea,iodopropynyl butylcarbamate (IPDC) & grapefruit seed extract (GSE)

Does that help you Nicole ? basically I need a good regiment for my face , a good wash,toner.moisturiser im almost running out on CArley's so I might be in the need for new products to test. basically I want something that fights off
Acne, im not a severe case if I was id get something from a Doctor its just sometimes I get an outbreak.

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Rene - Unfortunately, we live in a quick fix society. People run in for "lunchtime peels" w/o thinking about the consequences. The French are known for skincare and trust me, they are not fond of acids or agressive exfoliation. If you went in for a facial, you wouldn't see an arsenal of machinery. They're not sandblasting aluminum crystals onto their skin (microdermabrasion) and you would even be hard pressed to sell a high foam cleanser there as people have an awareness about maintaining the skins barrier function. I'm with you on the soy milk- it's much better to consume things in their natural form.

[Queen of Blades]

When are we going to get to the diabetic skincare subject? I'm trying to be oh so patient!!! :biggrin:

Also I can't find any haircare products that don't :mad3: contain alcohol or other big scary sounding chemicals. Any thoughts? Anyone?

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Rene, I prefer not to use benzoyl peroxide as it can be very drying. Also, there are some questionable ingredients like the propylene glycol and urea. You can certainly read up online and bear in mind that any info referencing the Ingredient Review Board should be taken with a grain of salt as they are funded by the cosmetic giants. Also, if you feel any rough particulate in the cleanser, this would not be the best thing to use as it can cause microtears in the skin (wondering about the walnut shell powder and how fine that is.) You have to determine your own tolerance level for chemicals in a product. I prefer cleansers with seaweed and essential oils and cleansers which are ph balanced to the skin so that you can save your money and time by avoiding an extra step and so a toner wouldn't be necessary. If the breakouts are frequent, I would opt for some type of "treatment" product which contains sulfur as it regulates oil gland production. A good moisturizer for you would give you hydration with oil controlling oils.

[TraderJoe]

When are we going to get to the diabetic skincare subject? I'm trying to be oh so patient!!! :biggrin:

Also I can't find any haircare products that don't :mad3: contain alcohol or other big scary sounding chemicals. Any thoughts? Anyone?

Avalon Organics carries a very good line of hair products, in addition to other things. No harsh chemicals, SLS, parabens, propelyne glycol in them.

edit -

here's the shampoo i have, it works great:
http://www.avalonorganics.com/?id=88&pid=203

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

JoAnna- I haven't forgotten. We are just launching a campaign tomorrow and so I will need another 2 days as I want to address it thoroughly. Thanks for your patience.

[SSLStudio]

Rene, I prefer not to use benzoyl peroxide as it can be very drying. Also, there are some questionable ingredients like the propylene glycol and urea. You can certainly read up online and bear in mind that any info referencing the Ingredient Review Board should be taken with a grain of salt as they are funded by the cosmetic giants. Also, if you feel any rough particulate in the cleanser, this would not be the best thing to use as it can cause microtears in the skin (wondering about the walnut shell powder and how fine that is.) You have to determine your own tolerance level for chemicals in a product. I prefer cleansers with seaweed and essential oils and cleansers which are ph balanced to the skin so that you can save your money and time by avoiding an extra step and so a toner wouldn't be necessary. If the breakouts are frequent, I would opt for some type of "treatment" product which contains sulfur as it regulates oil gland production. A good moisturizer for you would give you hydration with oil controlling oils.

Thanks,

Yes it has some harsh grainlike sandpaper like feeling on the face but thats why I also GENTLY rub it over the face and dont go to town with it and also use just a tiny bit of it.
Moisturising well I am very impressed by Thayers Witch hazels Lavender product have a 12oz bottle here decanted to spray on my face after everyshave or whenever my face needs a pick me upper.

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Diabetes can affect every organ of the body, especially the body's largest one-the skin. As far as facials are concerned, diabetics generally benefit from facials designed for sensitive skin. Any facial treatment that improves the circulation, texture, hydrates and incorporates lymphatic drainage will encourage cellular turnover and repair. Try to drink plenty of water and avoid extreme temperatures when bathing the body and washing the face. Use caution if waxing any areas of the body since bruising is a common side effect in diabetics, who heal slowly due in part to the thinness of the skin. Since there is a lack of proper circulation and blood flow, there is generally an accumulation of dead or hardened skin cells. Insulin resistance affects the hair follicles as well, so diabetic's skin sporadically may be hairless. Gentle enzyme peels often help to remove excess dead skin cells (just make sure if using on the body to keep away from the injection site to avoid irritation) and I would caution the use of acid products due to the diabetic's photosensitivity and reactive and sensitive skin. Sunscreen should be used daily. To improve circulation, diabetic skin will benefit from stimulating ingredients like algae extracts, menthol and eucalyptus which increase blood flow by dilating the blood vessels just under the skin. Algae will also help to moisturize the skin in order to maintain the lipid barrier. This is extremely impt for diabetics since they are prone to skin infections due to severely dry and often cracked skin. Healing agents such as chamomile extract are good to use as well. Obviously, diet, exercise and medication are important. However, in order to prevent skin complications, it is crucial to maintain the skin's natural moisture barrier and healing function. This can be accomplished with dedicated care, using products containing a higher percentage of key ingredients to be effective for this specific skin condition.

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Just some news. Recently the FDA proposed a ban on over-the-counter sales of skin-lightening products. These products typically contain hydroquinone, a possible carcinogen also linked to a skin-disfiguring condition called ochronosis. Symptoms include darkening and thickening of the skin, tiny dome-shaped bumps and grayish-brown spots. Under the proposed FDA rule, all skin-bleaching products -prescription and over-the-counter would be considered new drugs. Manufacturers would have to get FDA approval to sell them , and only then with a doctor's note - FYI

[Mama Bear]

Avalon Organics carries a very good line of hair products, in addition to other things. No harsh chemicals, SLS, parabens, propelyne glycol in them.

edit -

here's the shampoo i have, it works great:
http://www.avalonorganics.com/?id=88&pid=203

I have to try this! Thanks for posting the link Joe!!

Sue

[SSLStudio]

Hi Nicole,

I have been meaning to ask you for a while what is your opinion on SLS and SLES in shampoos and Shave creams.

I have been reading horror stories about what can happend to the human nervous system taking up this ingredient.

Why is the industry using SLS and SLES ? is there a safe treshold of usage for these? All I know as a layman is that it makes a big part of the foaming process we like in shampoos,toothpaste, Shave creams.

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Hi Nicole,

I have been meaning to ask you for a while what is your opinion on SLS and SLES in shampoos and Shave creams.

I have been reading horror stories about what can happend to the human nervous system taking up this ingredient.

Why is the industry using SLS and SLES ? is there a safe treshold of usage for these? All I know as a layman is that it makes a big part of the foaming process we like in shampoos,toothpaste, Shave creams.
The industry uses it because it foams well as a surfactant and it's cheap to buy in bulk. The industry for the most part is unregulated and so they are looking out for their pockets and not your health. I don't know if there is a safe threshold. I will not use products nor offer any products containing these ingredients-period. I can tell you that it is a proven eye irritant as well.

[SSLStudio]

The industry uses it because it foams well as a surfactant and it's cheap to buy in bulk. The industry for the most part is unregulated and so they are looking out for their pockets and not your health. I don't know if there is a safe threshold. I will not use products nor offer any products containing these ingredients-period. I can tell you that it is a proven eye irritant as well.

MY GOD ! and it is litteraly in everything ! try finding a toothpaste that has no SLS or SLES ! and I dont know if every manuf. writes everything on the label !
I think the products from SCS contain SLS or SES aswell but she doesnt write anything on her label I dont think she even has labels on her products?

Isnt there a law for these kinds of things even if they are home soap makers to still have a label on the product ? FDA ?

I think its a criminal offense to use products that harm people.. we can go all nutts over this and I dont want to stir a war or fight with SCS or anything I mean its her right to not tell us whats in the soaps but its also our right to do know whats insomething when your using it on the skin and everyone knows skin takes up ingredients you put on the skin.

The Arko cream doesnt have SLS or SLES but im pretty sure your not happy that it has propylene Glycol in it ? Im bearing with all this now but Im really thinking in cutting out any products that smell after SLS or SLES . even my beloved Aqua di Gio shampoo has SLS. :mad:

[bearbeard]

Nicole,
Thank you for taking the time to help us out. I have one question regarding sunscreen. Is there any kind that will not sting the eyes when you start sweating...also my eyebrows feel like fireants are biting them when I start to sweat profusely. This makes it next to impossible to keep sunscreen on when working outside.

P.S. I do wear a hat to keep as much sun off of my face as possible.

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Nicole,
Thank you for taking the time to help us out. I have one question regarding sunscreen. Is there any kind that will not sting the eyes when you start sweating...also my eyebrows feel like fireants are biting them when I start to sweat profusely. This makes it next to impossible to keep sunscreen on when working outside.

P.S. I do wear a hat to keep as much sun off of my face as possible.

You're welcome. We are probably going to be switching over to Colorscience for their sunscreen: http://www.colorescience.com/1024x768/flash/index.html It's a mineral powder which should do the trick for you. Your biggest decision would be brush or roll-on. Unfortunately, the chemical sunscreen ingredients run into your eyes and cause the stinging (apart from the other nasty effects that these chemicals have on our body.) From what I understand, Organic Pharmacy makes a good product as well. You will pay more for a natural sunscreen product but you shouldn't have the stinging issue. Hope that helps.

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

MY GOD ! and it is litteraly in everything ! try finding a toothpaste that has no SLS or SLES ! and I dont know if every manuf. writes everything on the label !
I think the products from SCS contain SLS or SES aswell but she doesnt write anything on her label I dont think she even has labels on her products?

Isnt there a law for these kinds of things even if they are home soap makers to still have a label on the product ? FDA ?

I think its a criminal offense to use products that harm people.. we can go all nutts over this and I dont want to stir a war or fight with SCS or anything I mean its her right to not tell us whats in the soaps but its also our right to do know whats insomething when your using it on the skin and everyone knows skin takes up ingredients you put on the skin.

The Arko cream doesnt have SLS or SLES but im pretty sure your not happy that it has propylene Glycol in it ? Im bearing with all this now but Im really thinking in cutting out any products that smell after SLS or SLES . even my beloved Aqua di Gio shampoo has SLS. :mad:

Rene,

FDA is pretty much hands off unless you ingest something as a drug or food. Most people don't realize this when shopping for this category, but it's true. You might be interested to check out www.safecosmetics.org to get some more info. I believe there is a link to the actual FDA language as it relates to cosmetics.

[Queen of Blades]

I love it when companies say their product is "not tested on animals". So what, the company is testing it on us, the consumer? :eek:

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

I love it when companies say their product is "not tested on animals". So what, the company is testing it on us, the consumer? :eek:

Sad, but true. We are guinea pigs in a sense. It's a 35 billion dollar industry that's more about package than purpose. Definitely check out that website if you have a chance. You can also find some info on a bill that was passed in California which hopefully will be the first of many at the state level - with regards to disclosing ingredients linked to cancer, birth defects, etc.

[SSLStudio]

Rene,

FDA is pretty much hands off unless you ingest something as a drug or food. Most people don't realize this when shopping for this category, but it's true. You might be interested to check out www.safecosmetics.org to get some more info. I believe there is a link to the actual FDA language as it relates to cosmetics.


Thanks Nicole Bookmarked the site and subscribed to Skin Deep eNews mails.

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

A note on benzoyl peroxide as an ingredient:

While benzoyl peroxide does effectively kill the bacteria that are known to be part of acne, one of the side effects is an increased presence of oxygen free radicals, which may affect endogenous cells and lead to accelerated skin aging. Peroxides are not strictly selective for bacteria and so they can also alter other cells. If you insist on using benzoyl peroxide, please make sure to use it sparsely and exclusively on acne-prone areas. This is part of the reason why I could never understand the interest in oxygen treatments.

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

cotton swab
hydrogen peroxide
½ oz. powered oatmeal
½ T. fresh lemon juice
¼ c. egg whites
3 drops honey

Directions:
1. Dab cotton swab in hydrogen peroxide and cleanse the infected area. (This will keep the infection from spreading.)

2. Mix everything else in a small bowl.

3. Cover blemish with mixture and leave on for twenty minutes.

4. Rinse with warm water.

5. Store leftovers in fridge for up to one week. Apply twice daily until pimple disappears.

[Jack Bauer]

A note on benzoyl peroxide as an ingredient:

While benzoyl peroxide does effectively kill the bacteria that are known to be part of acne, one of the side effects is an increased presence of oxygen free radicals, which may affect endogenous cells and lead to accelerated skin aging. Peroxides are not strictly selective for bacteria and so they can also alter other cells. If you insist on using benzoyl peroxide, please make sure to use it sparsely and exclusively on acne-prone areas. This is part of the reason why I could never understand the interest in oxygen treatments.

Nicole,

Since you don't recommend benzoyl peroxide for fighting acne what do you recommend? I have been using a 2.5% benzoyl peroxide solution for awhile and have had mixed results. My skin only cleared up recently after I went strictly to only using shaving soap. Is accutane the only way? I have tried other dermatoligist medications and nothing seems to eliminate the problem. My acne has never been really bad but it is there.

Here is my daily routine that has helped clear up my skin. Wash face in shower with cleanser. Wetshave with pre de provence soap. Then lightly rinse again with a cleanser (either baxter's or cetaphil).
Finish up with Thayer's witch hazel, add Clear Skin Regimen 2.5% benzoyl (after skin dries), wait 5 minutes then nancy boy aftershave gel/balm.

Then at night I wash my face with a cleanser, put on the benzoyl and leave. I usually don't moisturize since my skin is oily but if I do at night i'll either use cetaphil or Nancy Boy daily facial moisturizer.

It is frustrating to not have clear skin (at 23). I don't want to go on accutane but fear that I may have no other choice. Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Chris

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Nicole,

Since you don't recommend benzoyl peroxide for fighting acne what do you recommend? I have been using a 2.5% benzoyl peroxide solution for awhile and have had mixed results. My skin only cleared up recently after I went strictly to only using shaving soap. Is accutane the only way? I have tried other dermatoligist medications and nothing seems to eliminate the problem. My acne has never been really bad but it is there.

Here is my daily routine that has helped clear up my skin. Wash face in shower with cleanser. Wetshave with pre de provence soap. Then lightly rinse again with a cleanser (either baxter's or cetaphil).
Finish up with Thayer's witch hazel, add Clear Skin Regimen 2.5% benzoyl (after skin dries), wait 5 minutes then nancy boy aftershave gel/balm.

Then at night I wash my face with a cleanser, put on the benzoyl and leave. I usually don't moisturize since my skin is oily but if I do at night i'll either use cetaphil or Nancy Boy daily facial moisturizer.

It is frustrating to not have clear skin (at 23). I don't want to go on accutane but fear that I may have no other choice. Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Chris

Chris,

I know this can be frustrating but I would really not consider Accutane as an option (IMO.) You will have to go for blood tests b/c it can affect your liver. Accutane dries you out like a prune. I know people who have dry lips and dry patches years after going off of this drug. It is also suspected that Accutane may be cause emotional disturbances which may be linked to suicidal behavior.

So let's proceed down a more pleasant path. If I'm counting correctly, it seems as though you are putting some type of soap or cleanser on your face about 4x/day. Unless you are waking up and look in the mirror and see major amounts of oil, you should limit cleaning your face to 1x/day, preferably in the evening to remove dirt, pollution, etc. Also, try changing your pillowcase every day or every other day to avoid spreading bacteria around your face. There should not be a need to lightly rinse with a cleanser after shaving. I am not a proponent of shaving with soap and would prefer that you used a non-soap based shaving cream which provided good hydration.

As far as controlling oil gland production, I prefer using "oil controlling oils" in your face wash and using a leave on product that would either have "oil controlling oils" with some type of moisturizing agent and/or a treatment with zinc which is very good at controlling oil gland production. Astringents (like witch hazel) can also be drying. If you use a cleanser which is ph balanced
to your skin, the witch hazel is an unnecessary step IMO.

I am assuming that these are the ingredients from the Nancy Boy moisturizer:

Purified water, Isopropyl palmitate, Propylene glycol, tea tree oil, Glyceryl stearate, Hybrid safflower oil, Shea butter, Cucumber hydrosol, Essential oil, Cetyl alcohol, Vitamins E, A & D, Sulfated castor oil, Lecithin, Corn oil, Diazolidinyl urea, Ceteth-24, Choleth-24, PEG-12 oleate, Methylparaben, Propylparaben

I'd like to know what the essential oil is. As it stands, the tea tree oil is antibacterial (w/c is good) but I'm not seeing anything that is controlling oil production (w/c is what you want in a leave-on product.) Is it possible that you are using a moisturizer just to counter the drying effects of the Benz. Per. and all of the washing???????

[Jack Bauer]

Chris,

I know this can be frustrating but I would really not consider Accutane as an option (IMO.) You will have to go for blood tests b/c it can affect your liver. Accutane dries you out like a prune. I know people who have dry lips and dry patches years after going off of this drug. It is also suspected that Accutane may be cause emotional disturbances which may be linked to suicidal behavior.

So let's proceed down a more pleasant path. If I'm counting correctly, it seems as though you are putting some type of soap or cleanser on your face about 4x/day. Unless you are waking up and look in the mirror and see major amounts of oil, you should limit cleaning your face to 1x/day, preferably in the evening to remove dirt, pollution, etc. Also, try changing your pillowcase every day or every other day to avoid spreading bacteria around your face. There should not be a need to lightly rinse with a cleanser after shaving. I am not a proponent of shaving with soap and would prefer that you used a non-soap based shaving cream which provided good hydration.

As far as controlling oil gland production, I prefer using "oil controlling oils" in your face wash and using a leave on product that would either have "oil controlling oils" with some type of moisturizing agent and/or a treatment with zinc which is very good at controlling oil gland production. Astringents (like witch hazel) can also be drying. If you use a cleanser which is ph balanced
to your skin, the witch hazel is an unnecessary step IMO.

I am assuming that these are the ingredients from the Nancy Boy moisturizer:

Purified water, Isopropyl palmitate, Propylene glycol, tea tree oil, Glyceryl stearate, Hybrid safflower oil, Shea butter, Cucumber hydrosol, Essential oil, Cetyl alcohol, Vitamins E, A & D, Sulfated castor oil, Lecithin, Corn oil, Diazolidinyl urea, Ceteth-24, Choleth-24, PEG-12 oleate, Methylparaben, Propylparaben

I'd like to know what the essential oil is. As it stands, the tea tree oil is antibacterial (w/c is good) but I'm not seeing anything that is controlling oil production (w/c is what you want in a leave-on product.) Is it possible that you are using a moisturizer just to counter the drying effects of the Benz. Per. and all of the washing???????

Nicole,

Thanks for all of your help. I will be following your directions with regards to the pillow case and washing my face 1x a day. I am thinking about getting some products from your page and I saw fisherc recommended the Osea Ocean Cleanser. Is this a product recommended for people with semi-oily skin or should I go the route of the mudd cleanser instead? Also would you suggest the Osea corrective complex? If I decided to get the emu oil should I get the AR creme? My acne isn't severe or moderate even but it is there and I would like to eliminate it completely if possible. I will most likely be giving you a call within the next week or so after I figure this all out.

Also, you suggested that I not use the shaving soap that I have, but I believe
it is all natural. (maybe?) I need to use a badger brush when shaving (the lather it creates helps fight against the razor burn I am prone to). Any suggestions on the shaving front?

Thanks.

Chris

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Nicole,

Thanks for all of your help. I will be following your directions with regards to the pillow case and washing my face 1x a day. I am thinking about getting some products from your page and I saw fisherc recommended the Osea Ocean Cleanser. Is this a product recommended for people with semi-oily skin or should I go the route of the mudd cleanser instead? Also would you suggest the Osea corrective complex? If I decided to get the emu oil should I get the AR creme? My acne isn't severe or moderate even but it is there and I would like to eliminate it completely if possible. I will most likely be giving you a call within the next week or so after I figure this all out.

Also, you suggested that I not use the shaving soap that I have, but I believe
it is all natural. (maybe?) I need to use a badger brush when shaving (the lather it creates helps fight against the razor burn I am prone to). Any suggestions on the shaving front?

Thanks.

Chris

Chris,

The Osea Ocean Cleanser is for a normal to oily skin while the Mudd is for a very oily skin. The Mudd is quite active and has helped clear up to cystic acne (much worse than anything that you are experiencing.) If you aren't breaking out right now, I would suggest that you get into a good cleanser and the Corrective Complex could work as a possible moisturizer. I would hold off though on any "treatment" type product unless you are experiencing a flare up right now. One caveat though, when you are using active products, you may experience a setback at first. If you have congestion beneath your skin, this cleanser will cause it to "express itself" and you will "come clean"
before going forward. Same with the treatments. I would stick with a simple course of action first with as few products as possible. Also, you'll want to give any new product at least 30 days to truly see a difference as it takes on avg. 30 days for cells in the "basement" layer of the skin to move up to the "top floor."

I know I may sound like a broken record but lather is not required in order to protect against razor burn. Only that which physically sits right on the skin is protecting you in reality. Non-soap based creams are healthier for the skin as long as they provide good slip. Are you possibly pressing too hard with a dull blade or going over the same spot too often??

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Don't remember if I ever posted this. Of course you can work a brush into the equation if you use one.

Proper shaving techniques, quality products and post-shaving skin care can help you put your best face
forward:

1) WATER, WATER, EVERYWHERE
Either shave after taking a warm shower (hot water dehydrates the skin) or apply a warm moistened towel
to your face for a few minutes. Hair swollen with water becomes weak and is easier to cut. Never shave
cold or apply shaving products to a dry face.

2) CRÈME DE LA CREAM
Massage a quality shave cream into the skin with upward motions and leave on 1-3 minutes before starting to shave. The best products will lock moisture into your whiskers and DO NOT FOAM UP! Foam is merely soap-filled water and is a waste of money since it’s only what is in contact with your skin and beard that matters. Chemicals in commercial shaving foams actually dry skin and can cause ingrown hairs. Generally, pre-shave oils are unnecessary and are sold to supplement the inadequate lubrication of most shaving products.

3) GRAINS OF WISDOM
Shave WITH the grain. This can be in different directions on your face versus neck area. Shaving against
the grain causes ingrown hairs (razor bumps) and is a great way to donate blood.

4) SKIMMING THE SURFACE
Use short strokes starting with the side burns, cheeks, and neck. Finish with upper lip and chin last since
your whiskers are heaviest in this area. Do not apply too much pressure unless you are particularly fond of
razor burn.

5) RAZOR SHARP APPROACH
Rinse the blade under hot water before you begin to shave and after every few swipes. Replace your blade somewhere between every three to seven shaves if you shave every day. Don’t wipe the blade dry as it will dull faster. A dull blade is more traumatic to the skin and will make your face feel scratchy and look blotchy. Those of you holding out for two weeks, we know who you are.

6) CLOSE ENCOUNTER
For an even closer shave, apply more shave cream and re-shave WITH the grain.

7) RUBBED THE WRONG WAY
Rinse with cool water and pat dry with a towel, NEVER RUB.

8) NON-ALCOHOLIC, PLEASE
Shaving can remove up to two layers of surface skin so you MUST use a quality after-shave
moisturizer. The best products will replace lost moisture from shaving and soothe, cool and refresh
the skin. No alcohol-laced concoctions (all pain, no gain.)

[Kyle Stoner]

Nicole, you are absolutely awesome. Thank you so much for being around :) Do you have an entire set-up that you would reccommend, or product lines that you know of that you would reccommend?

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Nicole, you are absolutely awesome. Thank you so much for being around :) Do you have an entire set-up that you would reccommend, or product lines that you know of that you would reccommend?

Kyle,

Thank you very much. As far as entire set-up do you mean recommending a kit or all products from a given line?? I personally wouldn't deal with suppliers who require me to purchase their whole line in order for me to retail their products since I prefer to "cherry pick" products to get the best of what is available. In terms of recommendations, I am biased in that I will only offer "clean" products to my clients which are devoid of a lot of the nasty synthetic chemicals available at both the mass market and prestige levels. Basically, I would try to keep the regimen simple as less=more. In my opinion, a good cleanser and aftershave/moisturizer as well as sunscreen (if anti-aging is a concern,) are indispensible. I prefer Osea's cleansers and I'm currently looking into Sircuit Skin cleansers as well as A-D-E Creamy Cleanser (for dry skin) which is VERY reasonably priced. I'll send a pm so that we can address your specifics without boring everyone here :)

[TraderJoe]

Nicole, rest assured no one is getting bored here :biggrin: Your posts are invaluable, and a very welcome addition to B&B.

Thanks for all of the helpful info!

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Nicole, rest assured no one is getting bored here :biggrin: Your posts are invaluable, and a very welcome addition to B&B.

Thanks for all of the helpful info!

Thanks,Trader Joe. I appreciate your kind words.

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Compared to pale skin, brown skin contains more melanin, or pigment in the uppers layers in cells known as melanocytes. These cells are very sensitive to an array of assaults including the sun, irritation from injury, rough treatment and medicines. These cells are more likely to react (if provoked) with discoloration, as seen in hyperpigmentation (dark spots) or hypopigmentation (light spots.) Brown skin is also slow to rebound and prone to develop discolored spots and scars from acne, psoriasis, eczema and sometimes from the treatments for these conditions. Also, the darker the skin color, the more likely the person will be predisposed to hyperpigmentation. Unlike pale skin which reacts more immediately to irritation but recovers quickly, darker skin may be slower to react but the aftereffects will linger.

People tend to assume that dark skin is thicker and oilier and therefore more sturdy and resilient. Not true. Heavily pigmented skin is far more reactive than is fair, Caucasian skin. Sometimes clients with dark skin complain of dryness but see a shine and think that they are oily when in fact the shine is actually a reflection of light. Generally, the size of the pores will dictate oily v. dry conditions. In fact, dark skin is very prone to dehydration.

The sensitivity of darker skins requires caution when it comes to products for at home use as well as for treatments at a spa. In particular, my preference is to avoid using glycolic acid or benzyl peroxide. If you are seeking treatment for hyperpigmentation, I would avoid using traditional fade creams containing hydroquinone, which has been condemned for it's cancer-causing properties, not to mention a tendency for the skin to suddenly develop extreme sensitivity to it even after years of use. There are many natural and botanical ingredients like licorice and rice bran which are "skin lighteners" although treatment requires great patience given that hyperpigmentation is one of the most difficult skin conditions to address. As far as spa treatments, I would be cautious about peels, microdermabrasion and laser resurfacing treatments as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation with potential scarring can result.

The good news is that darker skin is more resistant to sun damage (although it still can burn and requires protection with sunscreen) and is slower to display wrinkles, rough texture and age spots. Still, once every month, your skin must be examined from head to toe, paying particular attention to your hands, fingers, feet, toes, nails and mouth, where melanoma type skin cancers are more likely to appear in people of color. Look for dark brown or black spots in these areas no matter how small. Pay particular attention to new spots or spots that change. The change can be an increase in size, shape or color or a raised bump that develops within the spot. A bump on the foot or toe that is sore or does not heal is another tip off for skin cancer. Be on the lookout for dark streaks or lines along one fingernail or toenail only. If you find anything unusual, any area that you think might have changed or any particularly dark or irregular spot, see your dermatologist right away.

Contrary to popular belief, darker skin is not tougher; in fact, while extra melanin does have its benefits -- sun protection and slowed signs of aging -- it makes the skin more sensitive and vulnerable to injury.

So, we want to be gentle and make sure to AVOID INFLAMMATION:

1) Cleanse skin daily to remove dirt but avoid abrasive cleansers or products (puffs, loofahs), which can irritate skin of color. Don't overdo it. Cleansing too often or too roughly will harm brown skin.

2) Use products designed for your skin type but avoid those that contain potential irritants such as fragrance, alcohol, propylene glycol, dye and lanolin.

3) Keep the temperature down and exfoliate gently without over exfoliating.

4) Do a patch test for new products.

5) Use a quality sunscreen without fragrance or PABA

**Skin color also affects what is going on internally as darker skin is less likely to absorb the sunlight necessary for the body to manufacture sufficient amounts of vitamin D and so supplementation is often necessary.

[ashm24]

Hi,

I suffer from ingrown hairs and I'm currently using a salicylic acid product with a single blade safety razor and aqueous cream. This is probably the combination that has given me the least ingrown hairs. I still sometimes get ingrown hairs after a four or five day beard grow but it's more infrequent. My skin improved once I got off the sodium tallowate based soaps a few years ago. Which is the 'best' vegetable oil based soap ? (I understand they differ in their fatty acid chain length)

I'd like to look at clay based products. I particulary have some black and white heads on my nose that I can never clear. Not to be too disgusting but I guess the black and white heads are fat that has gone rancid. This then causes irritation ?

Personally I think hormones in the water and food supply might be a contributing factor. I haven't seen any research into it, just the odd story. http://www.timesonline.co.uk/article/0,,2087-1715014,00.html


Kind regards,

Ashley.

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Ashley,

I can't guide you on the soap but I'm sure you can find info on this forum. I prefer seaweed (antibacterial and remineralizing), a very mild surfactant and oils (to regulate oil.)

As far as white/blackheads: The basic difference is that with a blackhead the comedone is open meaning it has been exposed to the air and so the oxygen turns it black in color. The whitehead is "trapped" under a layer of skin. It comes about from oil getting trapped in the follicle usually obstructed by dead skin.

An excellent product which I offer but have yet to upload to the website is Lerosett from Sweden. It is just rasul clay and distilled water. Very effective for white/blackheads and ingrowns as well. Can also be used to spot treat pimples. It has incredible "drawing" properties.

I definitely agree with you on the problem of hormone mimicking substances in our food supply. The problems go way beyond the scope of this forum unfortunately.

Hope that helps.


Hi,

I suffer from ingrown hairs and I'm currently using a salicylic acid product with a single blade safety razor and aqueous cream. This is probably the combination that has given me the least ingrown hairs. I still sometimes get ingrown hairs after a four or five day beard grow but it's more infrequent. My skin improved once I got off the sodium tallowate based soaps a few years ago. Which is the 'best' vegetable oil based soap ? (I understand they differ in their fatty acid chain length)

I'd like to look at clay based products. I particulary have some black and white heads on my nose that I can never clear. Not to be too disgusting but I guess the black and white heads are fat that has gone rancid. This then causes irritation ?

Personally I think hormones in the water and food supply might be a contributing factor. I haven't seen any research into it, just the odd story. http://www.timesonline.co.uk/article/0,,2087-1715014,00.html


Kind regards,

Ashley.

[GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare]

Cosmeceuticals are loosely defined as products w/c combine the benefits of a cosmetic and a pharmaceutical. Many skincare cos. use this term, especially the doctor endorsed products. Since the term "cosmeceutical" is not regulated or controlled, essentially anyone can slap that label on their products to promote them as being more "medical." This is not to say that cosmeceuticals are bad. Regardless of the name, a skincare product is only as good as what it contains and how those ingredients can help your skin stay healthy and function better.