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What have I learned from 100 SR shaves?

Today was my 100th SR shave, all in all I think I've done pretty well. I suspect my learning curve was shortened some because I had been using DE for a little while and didn't have to learn the soap and brush as well as the razor. I have kept a journal of my journey for anyone who might be interested ...tickets are only $5 and all proceeds go to my Straight Razor purchasing fund.

In addition to working on figuring out how to shave with the darn things I dabbled in collecting a few, honing some, making a couple, rescaling some, stropping and making a strop... You know, the typical progression a new guy follows in his first 100 days. So what have I learned? I made a list of some of the things that come to mind, feel free to add to it if you are so inclined.


**Oh and, remember I've only been doing this 100 days so don't take anything I say here seriously...what the heck would I know? About all I can say for sure is I haven't bled out yet.

Lessons learned from 100 straight shaves
1) A sharp blade is the difference between success andfailure. Having an unquestionably sharpblade (and using it) improves results and reduces the tendency to use poortechnique to compensate for a poor quality edge.
2) Good lather for DE shaving isn’t necessarilygood lather for Straight shaving. Inaddition to ample cushion, straight shaving needs lather to be slick, wet and thinis better than thick, dry and sticky.
3) Alum is great for maintaining control of therazor when that slick lather gets on your hands or razor …But alum finger printson your face ruin good lather, make the blade stick and drag and even makesknots in your favorite badger hair brush.
4) Stretching the skin tight and flat with your offhand makes a huge difference. Stretchingby making faces without using your hand to pull skin tight …is a DE techniqueat best.
5) Use a cloth around your finger to help get gripon your skin for stretching, it helps.
6) When you are getting poor results…changesomething. But DON’T do it with theblade still on your face.
7) Small changes to consider (ones I’ve tried):Blade angle (more/less), Razor angle(raise or lower heel/toe), More/Less pressure,Lather, Order of passes, direction of pass, COLD water prep/rinse, morestropping, pasted balsa strop.)
8) Face Lathering is good for preparing the beard,bowl lathering is good for getting the lather just right …do both.
9) Don’t be a sissy, shave with purpose (applies toDE too), use enough pressure and force to keep the blade in good contact andmoving through your beard.
10) If you find yourself increasing the angle and/orpressing harder as you shave, you might be subconsciously compensating for ablade that is not sharp enough OR you might be getting confused or frustrated. Check.
11) Pasted Balsa strops are a GREAT way to maintaina sharp edge on an already great edge. 0.25u diamond is excellent but produces a “harsh” feeling edge if you don’tuse 0.1u after. Using JUST 0.1u perSlash McCoy’s instructions will work very well.
12) I like lots of stropping- strop on good linen,strop on good leather …strop, strop, strop.
13) Films, higher grit paste and/or honing stonesare options for bringing a dulling edge back to life. When it comes down to it, it isn’t that hardto use film or a high grit synthetic stone in combination with pasted balsastrops to restore an edge at home.
14) Pro TIP- If you have a difficult patch (on yourneck), use your finger like it was a blade to mimic a blade stroke to determinewhat kind of alternate approach and paths might be able to address that area.
15) Pro TIP- Think in more than one direction.Sometimes a “slicing” type stroke that is moving BOTH up/down and side to sideis the answer you are looking for. Evena small degree of slicing motion can improve the efficiency of the blade andmake each pass more comfortable. Donewell it is a game changer, done wrong it is a blood bath …BE CAREFUL and havestyptic on hand.
16) Watch the TIP of your razor, I think we allcatch our ear in various places and it bleeds like hell.

New Guy Honing observations.
1) Searching for information about honing is likefinding the secret word in a stereogram, there are no books and every time you searchthe internet it sends you back to B&B or one of the same two or threepages. The answers are there, you haveto pour yourself a drink, close one eye and squint real hard and it starts to make sense.
2) If you keep looking for pictures of “what aproperly set bevel looks like under a loupe” or asking what the edge shouldlook like when “the bevel is set” …you got some more learning to do. BUT don’t worry, you’ll figure it out.
3) The hardest part about learning to hone isfiguring out what questions to ask.
4) I use “the Burr method” to establish a goodclean bevel edge. I don’t know how elseit can be done when starting from a poor state but people make it sound like I haveoptions. (the stereogram again...pour a drink and squint)
5) Films are cheap and easy BUT not foolproof. If you are a “by the numbers”recipe following kind of person, films are likely going to work very well foryou.
6) Cheap Synthetic stones are capable of getting agood job done job done, combined with films and/or pasted balsa strops they canproduce a great result.
7) Wider is “easier” …I think. I find 2.5” stones and film to be a perfectwidth to accomplish a decent “x” stroke and about any other stroke I know howto do.
8) If it aint working, change something; I foundsuccess by:
a. Stopping to strop on linen when it seemed thestone stopped working.
b. Frequently rinsing the residue off the stone andblade to avoid deep scratches and chips
c. Using LESS pressure or using MORE pressure
d. Use heel/toe leading strokes and change up aftera few sets of half strokes.
9) If you are bold enough to put a straight razorto your face and shave with it, you are capable of maintaining that razors edgewith some basic hones and pasted balsa strops. Honing a, antique finds might take more work and skill but you may stillbe able to do it.


 
Great stuff. It is certainly the result of hard won experience.

Pertaining to#9 ,it might help some to think in terms of vectors. There's a big difference between pressure into the skin, and pressure into the whiskers. A very small vector into the skin, and as much as you need in the direction of the stroke is what #9 is all about. I find this is paramount to good stropping technique, too. You have to "push" and "draw" toward the ends of the strop, not into it.

Thanks for the list, and your experience!
 
Great stuff. It is certainly the result of hard won experience.

Pertaining to#9 ,it might help some to think in terms of vectors. There's a big difference between pressure into the skin, and pressure into the whiskers. A very small vector into the skin, and as much as you need in the direction of the stroke is what #9 is all about. I find this is paramount to good stropping technique, too. You have to "push" and "draw" toward the ends of the strop, not into it.

Thanks for the list, and your experience!

I like it! I explained early in my journal that I imagined "stretching" the blade as I pulled the blade across the strop. I didn't know it at the time but I was thinking/imagining exactly what you describe. The most amazing thing about the world of razors is how microscopically small the tolerances are for everything to work just perfectly yet they have for so long. Stones, steel and leather come together to form the tools of such precision.
 
Great list. I'm a DE shaver....but l am about ready to take the straight razor plunge. Any suggestions on a first straight razor?

Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk
 
Great list. I'm a DE shaver....but l am about ready to take the straight razor plunge. Any suggestions on a first straight razor?

Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk
Almost everyone on the forum gets their 1st straight from Larry at Whipped dog. He has used straights, strops, and some sharpening supplies. He also offers honing services as well if you don't want to sharpen your razor.
 
I meant to include a comment about cleaning the lather off the blade:

I found using a sponge resting on the edge of the counter to wipe the lather from my blade useful. The sponge serves multiple purposes; As a lather wipe I can SEE that I am getting whiskers in the lather which confirms the blade is cutting (sometimes you just wonder), As a place to rest the blade while I rinse my face, re-lather ..whatever. The sponge ON THE EDGE OF THE COUNTER also keeps me from reaching into the sink and risking an attack from the porcelain monster or faucet.


I should note that this works best if you shave with the same hand the entire time, I keep the sponge on my right because I shave mostly with my right hand.

I will also add, rinsing the blade by dipping in water IS a valuable tool as well. I found it to confirm my lather was the right consistency (it should rinse quickly in the water) and I found it helped to add slickness if your lather has gotten a bit dry.
 
I meant to include a comment about cleaning the lather off the blade:

I found using a sponge resting on the edge of the counter to wipe the lather from my blade useful. The sponge serves multiple purposes; As a lather wipe I can SEE that I am getting whiskers in the lather which confirms the blade is cutting (sometimes you just wonder), As a place to rest the blade while I rinse my face, re-lather ..whatever. The sponge ON THE EDGE OF THE COUNTER also keeps me from reaching into the sink and risking an attack from the porcelain monster or faucet.


I should note that this works best if you shave with the same hand the entire time, I keep the sponge on my right because I shave mostly with my right hand.

I will also add, rinsing the blade by dipping in water IS a valuable tool as well. I found it to confirm my lather was the right consistency (it should rinse quickly in the water) and I found it helped to add slickness if your lather has gotten a bit dry.

CBLindsay - thank you for post. Today I used a damp cloth on the edge of the sink and it was great. Kept my blade clean, away from water, and danger of dings on the tap. Also, was a bit faster as I wasn't constantly wiping the straight razor down.
 
Congrats and thanks for the post. I'm about 20 shaves in, also coming from a few years of DE shaving. My skills are not quite there yet but I'm having so much fun shaving this way and I find the whole straight razor thing fascinating.
Good luck on your next hundred.
 
The tip on the lather in a bowl made all the difference for me. As soon as i stopped whipping it up on my face and instead used a scuttle, i'm able to get a much better consistency and such copious amounts that i cannot ever use it all.

Makes for a much smoother and more comfortable shave.

Great post.
 
What a great post Chris!!!

And I must admit that 100 shave's seems a long ways off to me, being on my 5th only 95 to go but your post sums it up. But as you say Search is a good tool but there is a great wealth of info right here, I found if I asked members will bend over backwards to give info on what they have learned on their journey right here.

Right from buying, to caring for the Razor, to learning to honing if in doubt just ask members don't "bite". Even yourself have given me advice on this new journey.
 
What a great post Chris!!!

And I must admit that 100 shave's seems a long ways off to me, being on my 5th only 95 to go but your post sums it up. But as you say Search is a good tool but there is a great wealth of info right here, I found if I asked members will bend over backwards to give info on what they have learned on their journey right here.

Right from buying, to caring for the Razor, to learning to honing if in doubt just ask members don't "bite". Even yourself have given me advice on this new journey.

I don't know about that..... I bite.... :letterk1:
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
Today was my 100th SR shave, all in all I think I've done pretty well. I suspect my learning curve was shortened some because I had been using DE for a little while and didn't have to learn the soap and brush as well as the razor. I have kept a journal of my journey for anyone who might be interested ...tickets are only $5 and all proceeds go to my Straight Razor purchasing fund.

In addition to working on figuring out how to shave with the darn things I dabbled in collecting a few, honing some, making a couple, rescaling some, stropping and making a strop... You know, the typical progression a new guy follows in his first 100 days. So what have I learned? I made a list of some of the things that come to mind, feel free to add to it if you are so inclined.


**Oh and, remember I've only been doing this 100 days so don't take anything I say here seriously...what the heck would I know? About all I can say for sure is I haven't bled out yet.

Lessons learned from 100 straight shaves
1) A sharp blade is the difference between success andfailure. Having an unquestionably sharpblade (and using it) improves results and reduces the tendency to use poortechnique to compensate for a poor quality edge.
2) Good lather for DE shaving isn’t necessarilygood lather for Straight shaving. Inaddition to ample cushion, straight shaving needs lather to be slick, wet and thinis better than thick, dry and sticky.
3) Alum is great for maintaining control of therazor when that slick lather gets on your hands or razor …But alum finger printson your face ruin good lather, make the blade stick and drag and even makesknots in your favorite badger hair brush.
4) Stretching the skin tight and flat with your offhand makes a huge difference. Stretchingby making faces without using your hand to pull skin tight …is a DE techniqueat best.
5) Use a cloth around your finger to help get gripon your skin for stretching, it helps.
6) When you are getting poor results…changesomething. But DON’T do it with theblade still on your face.
7) Small changes to consider (ones I’ve tried):Blade angle (more/less), Razor angle(raise or lower heel/toe), More/Less pressure,Lather, Order of passes, direction of pass, COLD water prep/rinse, morestropping, pasted balsa strop.)
8) Face Lathering is good for preparing the beard,bowl lathering is good for getting the lather just right …do both.
9) Don’t be a sissy, shave with purpose (applies toDE too), use enough pressure and force to keep the blade in good contact andmoving through your beard.
10) If you find yourself increasing the angle and/orpressing harder as you shave, you might be subconsciously compensating for ablade that is not sharp enough OR you might be getting confused or frustrated. Check.
11) Pasted Balsa strops are a GREAT way to maintaina sharp edge on an already great edge. 0.25u diamond is excellent but produces a “harsh” feeling edge if you don’tuse 0.1u after. Using JUST 0.1u perSlash McCoy’s instructions will work very well.
12) I like lots of stropping- strop on good linen,strop on good leather …strop, strop, strop.
13) Films, higher grit paste and/or honing stonesare options for bringing a dulling edge back to life. When it comes down to it, it isn’t that hardto use film or a high grit synthetic stone in combination with pasted balsastrops to restore an edge at home.
14) Pro TIP- If you have a difficult patch (on yourneck), use your finger like it was a blade to mimic a blade stroke to determinewhat kind of alternate approach and paths might be able to address that area.
15) Pro TIP- Think in more than one direction.Sometimes a “slicing” type stroke that is moving BOTH up/down and side to sideis the answer you are looking for. Evena small degree of slicing motion can improve the efficiency of the blade andmake each pass more comfortable. Donewell it is a game changer, done wrong it is a blood bath …BE CAREFUL and havestyptic on hand.
16) Watch the TIP of your razor, I think we allcatch our ear in various places and it bleeds like hell.


New Guy Honing observations.
1) Searching for information about honing is likefinding the secret word in a stereogram, there are no books and every time you searchthe internet it sends you back to B&B or one of the same two or threepages. The answers are there, you haveto pour yourself a drink, close one eye and squint real hard and it starts to make sense.
2) If you keep looking for pictures of “what aproperly set bevel looks like under a loupe” or asking what the edge shouldlook like when “the bevel is set” …you got some more learning to do. BUT don’t worry, you’ll figure it out.
3) The hardest part about learning to hone isfiguring out what questions to ask.
4) I use “the Burr method” to establish a goodclean bevel edge. I don’t know how elseit can be done when starting from a poor state but people make it sound like I haveoptions. (the stereogram again...pour a drink and squint)
5) Films are cheap and easy BUT not foolproof. If you are a “by the numbers”recipe following kind of person, films are likely going to work very well foryou.
6) Cheap Synthetic stones are capable of getting agood job done job done, combined with films and/or pasted balsa strops they canproduce a great result.
7) Wider is “easier” …I think. I find 2.5” stones and film to be a perfectwidth to accomplish a decent “x” stroke and about any other stroke I know howto do.
8) If it aint working, change something; I foundsuccess by:
a. Stopping to strop on linen when it seemed thestone stopped working.
b. Frequently rinsing the residue off the stone andblade to avoid deep scratches and chips
c. Using LESS pressure or using MORE pressure
d. Use heel/toe leading strokes and change up aftera few sets of half strokes.
9) If you are bold enough to put a straight razorto your face and shave with it, you are capable of maintaining that razors edgewith some basic hones and pasted balsa strops. Honing a, antique finds might take more work and skill but you may stillbe able to do it.

The force is strong, in this one.
 
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