Uneven Bevel?

Discussion in 'Hones/Honing' started by Raithskar, Jun 4, 2012.

  1. Some of you know I am an accomplished honer having shaved with my edges. I am very familiar with my coticules and have a pretty sound method for them.

    This weekend I dulled my Boker Edelweiss on glass and started honing. I went to check armhair test (i usually check both sides of the blade) first side shaved great, but when I tried the other side......what's this...not shaving hair, not even exfoliating the skin. I figured I would go ahead and finish out to see the result.

    When I got to the water stage x strokes, I really got concerned. One side was undercutting like a champ almost instantly when I hit the water, but the other side.....nothing. Not even penetration at the very edge. I cannot seem to get this razor evened out. Even after taking it to a DMT to recut the steel. It is a current production Edelweiss and does not appear to be warped, or have any other significant problems.

    Any of you guys have an idea what I have done and how I can correct it? I have already talked with some others about it, but just want to get some more input.

  2. Thats weird. I have had a similar result when sharpening knives as a result of a severe wire edge. But I am guessing that isnt the case here.
  3. It's clear you are using a coticule but what grit DMT?
    What is your set up ?
    DMT then coticule, or is there something else thrown in before the coticule?
  4. UPD


    Can you feel/see a burr?
    I can't think of a senario without a burr where a bevel would be sharp on one side and not the other. The science behind the design of the bevel is such that it shouldn't matter which side you test, it would be equally sharp as both sides have to meet in space to form a bevel. Even if the two sides meet off-center, where they meet the bevel forms and the edge is only as sharp as the bevel angle is acute. Where they meet is very thin and the edge can fold to one side or the other, thus creating a burr.

    If you don't detect a burr, then I'm at a loss as to what may be going on with this one. It hard to comment on such things without having seen it for myself.
  5. Kentos

    Kentos Moderator Emeritus

    Try running a pin spine to edge on both sides and see if it catches. If it does you have a burr.

    Is it dull across the whole blade?
  6. Ok I checked with a pin, and there was no burr. Spent about 15 mins on the naniwa 1k and it looks like it is good to go. Even undercut on both sides, and a nice catching bevel with TPT.

    Thanks for the input. I'll report how it goes on the coticule.
  7. Kentos

    Kentos Moderator Emeritus

    Any idea what the hang up was?
  8. If your dmt is 1200 or even a 1k..shouldn't be an issue with bevel setting
  9. I often take a peek at the edge under the microscope when I'm getting inconsistent results. It often sheds light on the problems that you might not have been able to see otherwise.
  10. The other tool I use is the sharpie test, make sure the mark is removed from the edge of the edge.
  11. professorchaos

    professorchaos Moderator Emeritus

    TNT will tell all you need to know.
  12. looked like I had taken too many strokes on one side.

    Brian: My current setup is a dmt 325, Naniwa 1K, and several Coticules. I don't stay on the DMT long (unless I am working on an Ebay/antique find). I use it just enough to cut the foundation for the bevel. I smooth it out on the Naniwa, and finish with dilucot on the coticule.

    Al: I plan on using a sharpie for it this go around.

    Henry: TNT was smooth and I could feel it digging in after the Naniwa 1k.

    Thanks for all the tips guys!

  13. magic marker is a very good test...
  14. I don't know why I did not think of the Magic Marker sooner (face palm).

Share This Page