Thanks All: a comparison of 3 razors (R89 vs Fatip Gentile vs ATT M1)

[steffenapelz]

Before I launch into the comparison of the three razors, I want to thank all those here who have given me invaluable advice over the last few months. First when I was considering the ATT and then the Fatip. Now that I own three very different razors, I figured I'd try to give back a little of my experience for those who may still be new to the game or on the hunt.

My first DE was the Muehle R89 which I got in late summer last year. It took me a little to dial into this razor, but I finally settled on a 4 pass shave (with minimal touchups) that could give me a very nice BBS pretty much every time and without any kind of irritation or problems.
The passes are WTG, XTG, ATG, XTG. The touchup was usually in the chin area. The razor always did well, and I could put different blades in without issue. AstraSPs seem to work best for me, followed by Personna Reds. But I never really LOVED shaving with the R89 because the 4 passes took a while and the glide of the razor head on the skin could be poor later in a shave.

Then in very early January, I was reading about how ZAMAK is evil and settled on purchasing an ATT M1 after some deliberation. In the first week or two, I considered sending the tool back...I was getting irritation when using the same blades and technique as with the Muehle. This is when another set of forum members opened my eyes to the fact that different razors require a different technique, blades and possible products. As soon as I grasped that much, I was making immense improvements to the outcome of my shaves. I am now at the point where a 3-pass shave (with minimal touch up) will give me the same or better results than the 4-pass shave did with the R89. The passes with the M1 are WTG, XTG, ATG (neck)/XTG (rest). I don't seem to do well with AstraSPs in the M1, but Personna Reds seem to work wonders. The M1 is MUCH more aggressive and a little bit less smooth than the R89 in my experience, but also much more efficient. I find that the M1 also mostly cures the problem with the razor head sticking to my skin that I experienced with my R89.

Emboldened by my newfound success with the M1, I finally warmed up to the idea of a brass razor to round out my small collection. From the start, I was looking at the Fatip Gentile, but feared it would be too aggressive. Thanks to some great feedback here, I ordered the Chrome version and as I expected...the finish cannot be compared with Muehle or ATT. Where the Muehle has a mirror perfect finish and the milling/machining is so good as to be flawless, the Fatip shows signs of machining/milling, and the Chrome plating is not as perfect as on the Muehle. The M1 is not plated, so no comparison there, but the machining on the M1 also blows the Fatip out of the water. But in the department that matters most, namely how it shaves, the Fatip is a dream. I seem to be able to use both AstraSP and Personna Reds in this razor without problem, and it is giving me the smoothest shave of all three razors. Somehow, it glides across the face better and smoother than the other two and with the same 3-pass technique I use with the M1, I get just about the same result, maybe a few more stray hairs left on the face. It is a little bit less efficient than the M1 and just about as aggressive, but smoother.

My final grades on all three razors are as follows:

Muehle R89: very mild, very smooth, not particularly efficient
ATT M1: low-level aggressive, smooth, very efficient
Fatip Testina Gentile: low-level aggressive, ultra smooth, efficient

So overall, I would say that the ATT and Fatip are now my daily drivers and that the Muehle will be relegated to the back of the bench.

Thanks to all of you who have helped me explore these razors. I am now interested in trying an OC to see if I can handle something far more aggressive than the above razors. Stay tuned.

 

[steffenapelz]

 

[steffenapelz]

 

[vtmax]

Great review. The Fatip Gentile is a wonderful shaver. It bends the blade quite a bit (think Progress/Baby Smooth) resulting in a stiffer blade with no movement. I prefer it over most, including my Wolfman.

 

[ShavingByTheNumbers]

Thanks a lot for your great comparison. I hear what you're saying about the R89. It's like the EJ DE89. It sounds like you learned from experience how shiny smooth chrome can cause friction for some of us. I learned that, too, with the EJ DE89. It appears that the rougher finishes of the Fatip Gentile and ATT M1 make for more slickness, in my opinion. The Fatip Gentile sounds very nice. Thanks again for your helpful analysis.

 

[Jaidmaster]

Nice reviews and summary.
My eye, however, is drawn to the Eufros soap! Quite the distraction.

 

[BigJ]

Thanks for the comparisons!

 

[steffenapelz]

Nice reviews and summary.
My eye, however, is drawn to the Eufros soap! Quite the distraction.

Yeah. That is a good one indeed.

Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk

 

[Spang]

Nice write up and comparison. I also really like the Testina Gentile and I concur with your observations: it is perhaps the smoothest razor in my den. If you're thinking a current production OC, you might consider the ATT M2 plate, since you already have the rest of the setup. While the ATT isn't a favorite of mine, the M2 worked the best of the plates that I tried. To me it is only slightly more aggressive than the M1, but noticeably more efficient, and I find it more comfortable. It sounds like you otherwise are getting along well with your ATT M1, so you might give the M2 some thought. Of course the best OC option, IMO, would be a vintage NEW. It's the OC everyone has been trying to knock off the throne since the 1930s, but no one has done it yet.

 

[jcs266]

Thanks for the detailed review. These reviews help many members in their quest for the Ideal Shave! Everyone is different, so some experimentation is always required.

 

[steffenapelz]

Nice write up and comparison. I also really like the Testina Gentile and I concur with your observations: it is perhaps the smoothest razor in my den. If you're thinking a current production OC, you might consider the ATT M2 plate, since you already have the rest of the setup. While the ATT isn't a favorite of mine, the M2 worked the best of the plates that I tried. To me it is only slightly more aggressive than the M1, but noticeably more efficient, and I find it more comfortable. It sounds like you otherwise are getting along well with your ATT M1, so you might give the M2 some thought. Of course the best OC option, IMO, would be a vintage NEW. It's the OC everyone has been trying to knock off the throne since the 1930s, but no one has done it yet.

Oooh. Vintage NEW and M2. Roger that. [emoji106]

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[steffenapelz]

Thanks for the detailed review. These reviews help many members in their quest for the Ideal Shave! Everyone is different, so some experimentation is always required.

Glad you think it could be helpful for someone at some point. You were actually one of the most important posters here to help me get the hang of the M1...without mastering that, the Fatip may not have happened either...

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[jcs266]

Glad you think it could be helpful for someone at some point. You were actually one of the most important posters here to help me get the hang of the M1...without mastering that, the Fatip may not have happened either...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Ah wow I'm happy to have been able to help.

 

[Quijote]

Thanks for the review. This has put the gentile on my short list for potential next razor.

 

[D1dad]

Thanks a lot for your great comparison. I hear what you're saying about the R89. It's like the EJ DE89. It sounds like you learned from experience how shiny smooth chrome can cause friction for some of us. I learned that, too, with the EJ DE89. It appears that the rougher finishes of the Fatip Gentile and ATT M1 make for more slickness, in my opinion. The Fatip Gentile sounds very nice. Thanks again for your helpful analysis.

Your not wrong here. I used a brass Gillette for years and switched to the Maggard v3 head in chrome finish and noticed way more drag right away. I then picked up the grey finish Maggard which was much smoother. I just got the blinged out Muhle R89 and back to the choppiness. I never gave much thought because i used the vintage razor for 20 yrs and never tried another outside of a few cartridges over the years. Actually using a long heavy handle/mr9 makes the v3 chrome much smoother in my findings.

 

[ShavingByTheNumbers]

Your not wrong here. I used a brass Gillette for years and switched to the Maggard v3 head in chrome finish and noticed way more drag right away. I then picked up the grey finish Maggard which was much smoother. I just got the blinged out Muhle R89 and back to the choppiness. I never gave much thought because i used the vintage razor for 20 yrs and never tried another outside of a few cartridges over the years. Actually using a long heavy handle/mr9 makes the v3 chrome much smoother in my findings.

Interesting. There's definitely something to the issue of friction with smooth chrome. Your experience with a long heavy handle is really interesting. It seems that you increased the mass to decrease the acceleration caused by the friction. The friction should still be there, but you feel less of an effect from it.

 

[D1dad]

Interesting. There's definitely something to the issue of friction with smooth chrome. Your experience with a long heavy handle is really interesting. It seems that you increased the mass to decrease the acceleration caused by the friction. The friction should still be there, but you feel less of an effect from it.

I just think the long heavy handle of the mr9 bullies the grab of the chrome. I still grip towards the top of the handle but I think the extra length smooths out the drag. I even put the chrome vr3 on the aluminum handle just to verify I wasn't imagining things with the same results of the Muhle R89.

 

[santamariasteve]

Brother Steffenapelz,

Congratulations on your outstanding write up.

Your thoughts parallel mine about the Muhle R89. It's a marvelous razor but a tad mild.

However, I find if I double shim the Muhle R89 it then gives me an outstanding 3 pass shave. A double shimmed Muhle R89 compares to a Gillette Red Tip on my face, and it is perfect for me and my coarse whiskers.

Is shimming a hassle? Yes and no. I change blades once a week and shimming only adds a minute.

Double shimmed. Try it. You may love it!

 

[ShavingByTheNumbers]

I just think the long heavy handle of the mr9 bullies the grab of the chrome. I still grip towards the top of the handle but I think the extra length smooths out the drag. I even put the chrome vr3 on the aluminum handle just to verify I wasn't imagining things with the same results of the Muhle R89.

The "grab" or friction from the head is still there, but the extra mass of the long heavy handle increases the mass moment of inertia. More mass moment of inertia increases the resistance to rotational changes from external forces. The longer heavier handle provides more resistance to rotational changes caused by frictional forces at the head. This means that the same frictional forces have less of an effect on rotation. In other words, the longer heavier handle provides a "smoother ride" with respect to rotation around the grip of your fingers. It also provides a "smoother ride" with respect to translation, too. More mass provides more resistance to translation (moving left, right, etc.) changes from external forces.

 

[D1dad]

The "grab" or friction from the head is still there, but the extra mass of the long heavy handle increases the mass moment of inertia. More mass moment of inertia increases the resistance to rotational changes from external forces. The longer heavier handle provides more resistance to rotational changes caused by frictional forces at the head. This means that the same frictional forces have less of an effect on rotation. In other words, the longer heavier handle provides a "smoother ride" with respect to rotation around the grip of your fingers. It also provides a "smoother ride" with respect to translation, too. More mass provides more resistance to translation (moving left, right, etc.) changes from external forces.

Yeah what he said lol. Either way it's a great shave and a brut with a few days growth. If I use this razor on a daily basis I'm using a very smooth blade though.