Suit sizes; the "length" of the jacket; short, regular, long

Discussion in 'The Speakeasy' started by mr00jimbo, Feb 29, 2008.

  1. I am between 5'8 and 5'9 and I have a measured 38 inch chest with a finger in from the measuring tape.
    I have a 38R suit and 38S sports coats and they both fit EXACTLY the same. :confused:

    However, when I drive, the shoulders feel tight and snug on the jacket.
    I drive a stick and it's kind of difficult because I don't want to ruin my suit jacket.

    Also, when I wear my cell phone in a holder on the side of my hip (belt clip) and button up my jacket, you can see the shape of it faintly but not when it's unbuttoned.

    These suits don't SEEM to fit tight...but I was wondering if you guys have any tips on how to test how they fit when they sit good on my shoulders and my arm length is good, to know how "flexible" that it should be for things like driving, etc.

    PS A 40, a size up, seems too loose by a long shot.
  2. Jimbo,
    The Short, Regular, and Long refers to the sleeve and trunk length of the jacket only. The number in the sizing of the jacket is referring to chest size only. If the shoulders are "tight" then it sounds to me that you need more room up there. I have often ordered the next size jacket, and then had it tailored back down. That would also most likely take care of the "phone bulge" that you are experiencing. If the sleeves are too short, then try a Long jacket on at your favorite shop, and see if that feels better for you. What size dress shirt do you typically wear?
    I have some problems with fitment, as I am 6ft 1in, have a 46 in chest and wear a 36/37 sleeve shirt. I need Long jackets so it doesn't look like I have 4 inches of shirtcuff showing!
  3. johnniegold

    johnniegold Moderator Emeritus

    First, I think you are already ruining your jacket by driving with it on. I never drive with my jacket on. Get one of these for about 20 bucks or just get and hanger and hang your jacket in the backseat. This way your jacket is not wrinkled in the back from sitting on it and you are not constantly pulling at the seams when you are driving which will lead to the jacket's early demise. As for the cell phone, when you buy a jacket, you can keep your cellphone clip on when they are fitting you to take that into consideration.

    Lastly, if a 40 seems to loose they can always tailor it for you to make it more of a custom fit. I find that the only real way to see if a jacket or suit fits right, is to wear it a couple of times and then bring it back to the store and tell them if something is not right. Just standing there in front of a mirror at the store doesn't tell exactly if the item fits or not.

    The tailor at Brook Brothers who has made my made-to-measure suits for years, who just recently retired :sad:, always suggested that I take the tairlored item home and "give it a spin" to see where/if there were problems (unless it was something obvious). If I thought there was a problem, I would return it and they would alter it at no extra charge.

    Just some thoughts...
  4. I never drive with my jacket or suit coat on. I always take it off and place it in the back seat. It is way more confortable to drive without a jacket on.


  5. Well I am relieved! On another forum I asked, they told me if you couldnt drive comfortably with your jacket on it was too small! I don't think it is too small but that was my only reservation!
    I didn't think you were supposed to be able to, but then I was told you should with no problems...

    I shall check out a 40! :D
    seems for me, off the rack looks half-decent most of the time!
  6. I agree with Bob - why would you drive with a suit jacket on?

  7. Doc4

    Doc4 Moderator Emeritus Contributor

    A properly-fitted suit jacket will restict your range of movement. And a too-big suit looks just plain goofy. I agree with the other fellows about not driving with a suit jacket on ... it's just one of those things that feel better without the jacket, and the jacket will thank you as well.
  8. You are partially correct but not 100%

    Short, Regular, and Long do not only refer to the sleeve length but also the length of the jacket as a whole. In fact the correct way is not to measure a jacket by the sleeve but where the back hem falls.

    So everyone knows a jacket's back hem should fall just below the butt cheek. Sleeves will almost always need to be tailored to fit correctly. Also it is not uncommob for shorter men with long torso's to need a long jacket though it is problematic with the corrisponding pants sometimes.

    Anyways thats the scoop.

  9. Which is exactly what i said here Winnzy....

  10. ouch

    ouch Moderator Contributor

    40 Too Long is a classic comedy routine by Andrew Dice Clay.
  11. yep, back when Dice was funny, that one was hilarious.
  12. First, I don't drive with my jacket on either.

    Next, look into the cut of the jacket. I'm a hair under 6' and most of my jackets are a 44R. Many different styles are out there from an athletic cut to a "classic" cut to "executive" cut, etc... Explain your problem to a decent tailor and they should be able to remedy your problem.

  13. My appoligies rmrdaddy you did in fact mention that. I have the bad habit of skiming when reading and while it does save time, everyonce and a while I make an ass of myself. Please forgive me :blush:
  14. mr 00jimbo

    Sounds like you want to step up to a size 40. In terms of choosing length, don't go by the sleeve but rather by the length of the jacket itself. Put the jacket on and stand in front of a full length mirror. Turn sideways to the mirror, let your arm hang easily by your side and make a loose fist. Now look at the bottom edge of the jacket. You should see about 1/4 inch of jacket below your knuckles. Less than that it's too short. More than that it's too long. You can then get the sleeve altered to fit.

    Best Regards

  15. Cell phones suck! ... aesthetically.

    A belt clip will never look good no matter what you wear, and having a phone bulge in your pocket isn't any better.

    Without seeing the jacket, I imagine it probably is the right size. Nothing ever fits perfectly without being tailored though.
  16. I followed the link. Instead of Andrew Dice Clay, I got Pink Floyd. It was pretty good, though.

  17. ouch

    ouch Moderator Contributor

    That's no link. That's my sig line. :lol:
  18. Buy your suits at a reputable store with a good tailor and/or/especially a staff who knows how to fit a good suit to ANY person. (It's an art). Next to a good shave, nothing feels better than a properly fitting, properly tailored suit.

    Considering the cost of ANY suit these days, spending a few extra dollars to have it fit right is certainly worth the time, $$, and "bother" of it all.

    Not all 40 L or 44 S are created equally-- just as not all bodies are created in exactly those sizes.

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