Lapping film, try it.
- Thread starter Blix
- Start date
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Oops typo on my part. I meant a .05u edge would probably be overkill, if it could even be properly executed.
Question for those who use the .3 um; does it tend to give an edge that is too sharp? Im thinking of trying this, but wondering if i should go for the 1 um or the.3. What grit would the 1 um be comparable to?
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
1u is to me comparable to a 12k Naniwa. .3u I have nothing to compare it with. Read the thread and pay special attention to the use of picopaper. Best use of .3u is to only use it over paper, and only a dozen laps or so at most. You can quite happily go without .3u film. If you are a sharpness geek, well, sure, use it.
To me, there is no such thing as "too sharp". Others will disagree, or else they will refer to a hyper sharp edge as "harsh". YMMV. Whatever blows your skirt up. I usually don't bother with .3u film because I always finish with diamond on balsa. See my pasted balsa strop thread for details before you run out and get a piece of wood and smear abrasive on it.
OK for anyone who like me has had a tough time finding the right base try these. They are perfect and cut to just the right size.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CELL-CAST-A...629142?hash=item43f88a6896:g:tasAAOSwQTVV~nGC
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CELL-CAST-A...629142?hash=item43f88a6896:g:tasAAOSwQTVV~nGC
Thanks!
Nice!
I wonder if a Delrin kitchen cutting board is flat enough?
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Probabl not, but the 3/4" plexiglass might be okay. I think glass is better though. YMMV.
kelbro
Alfred Spatchcock
I use the glass lapping plate from Lee Valley:
http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=33017&cat=1,43072
http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=33017&cat=1,43072
Pardon my ignorance, but the difference between paper and film is... ?
I've seen the 3M fiber optic polishing sets listed as paper and film but it was the same 3M part number on both? Also seen it listed as film but it was PSA on the back, in that case I'd prefer paper, because I don't want any adhesive residue... course I may not have caught all the 'custom' jargon being through around in the thread, as I'm still reading a lot of it... picopaper for example... stumbled on that thread when I googled it.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Film is NOT paper. It is acetate. If it says "paper" maybe they are mistaken and it is actually film. If they don't know their own product, I don't think they are a good vendor. If it IS paper, then you don't want it. I agree, buying PSA film is not a good idea. The adhesive thickness variation and compressibility are additional wild cards, and wetted plain back film will stick just fine, to a nice smooth surface. But as for removing the adhesive residue, acetone works very well. I also use it for removing spray adhesive from my plates, after bevel setting with sandpaper.
Well heck! Looks like I ordered the wrong pack... has a 'woven' back. Guess I should focus on getting my Arkansas stones burnished in then, but still looking for a finisher.
I need to make a decision on what to do.... I want to get started with film, but there are many different variables to consider. I just wish someone would tell me exactly what they use and where to buy it.... but then that takes the fun out of stressing on which decision to make..
I don't know if any members are still selling kits but this is what you want. Get sheet kit 2 and you'll have them all and and that plexiglass base I posted a few posts up.
http://www.bestsharpeningstones.com/catalog/Lapping Film.htm
http://redirect.viglink.com/?format...ww.ebay.com/itm/CELL-CAST-AC...sAAOSwQTVV~nGC
http://www.bestsharpeningstones.com/catalog/Lapping Film.htm
http://redirect.viglink.com/?format...ww.ebay.com/itm/CELL-CAST-AC...sAAOSwQTVV~nGC
Luecke, I bought all my film and base from Thorlabs for under $100 dollars shipped across the US. Their glass base is super duper flat, has nifty rubber legs to get it comfortably above whatever it is on. As for film, I bought 3u and 1u originally, and not the diamond film - dat stuff is crazy expensive, and then used 3M 1k wet/dry sandpaper from Home Depot to set bevels. I realized that 1k was a lil bit too aggressive for me to learn on so I bought 2k sandpaper. I also realized that the jump from 1k-3u was way too much for me, so I ordered 5u from Thorlabs and can easily get a shaving sharp razor now.
I should have read more of the thread before I ordered, I got the Zona kit off Amazon and there it is on page 114 that it doesn't work. It's not a wasted purchase as I can still use it, it's a very good cloth, but the curious mind want's to know why they won't work, but the acetate ones do? I tried and tried to set a bevel, even went to the 30 micron, but nothing, like I'd not even touched it. May just have to order the sample pack with the PSA on it and just deal with the cleanup of the sticky residue.
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