I prefer to use my "soulless" Edge Pro on my knives.
Honing Japanese Knives
- Thread starter David
- Start date
Bevels are set on synthetics, 1k Chosera, 1200k Beston, 1k King, Suehiro, there are many that will work.
Mid range you can go straight on 5k Suehiro, Chosera, or Hakka, Takashima, Hideryama, Aoto. If you want to get fancy, then you can move on to a suita, Shinden, Okudo, Ohira will all work as long as they are soft and self slurry some. I personally never felt a need to go past mid-range with my Hakka. Soft suita suitable for knives is not easy to find nowadays unless you are willing to part with a good number of dollars.
Mid range you can go straight on 5k Suehiro, Chosera, or Hakka, Takashima, Hideryama, Aoto. If you want to get fancy, then you can move on to a suita, Shinden, Okudo, Ohira will all work as long as they are soft and self slurry some. I personally never felt a need to go past mid-range with my Hakka. Soft suita suitable for knives is not easy to find nowadays unless you are willing to part with a good number of dollars.
Edge pro, eh? That's the thing I see people selling wafer thin chips of hones for $50-100 on eBay for? Reviews say 5 minutes to touch up and 20 minutes to remove chips from a knife? Eh, I'm not overly impressed with it as an alternative for most people who do a lot of sharpening.
I had the Edge Pro and was very unimpressed, the way the blade is held in place is just impractical to me. Many folks say, it takes some practice to learn the system, but to me a system should be ready to use out of the box, no fiddling around.
This one gets a lot of good reviews as a very solid build that works really well. There are a number of video reviews on youtube of it as well
Profile TechStudio
This one gets a lot of good reviews as a very solid build that works really well. There are a number of video reviews on youtube of it as well
Profile TechStudio
All those systems cannot thin the blade.
After multiple sharpening the area behind the edge gets thicker and thicker . This will dramatically reduce cutting efficiency.
Better to learn on a stone from the get go.
After multiple sharpening the area behind the edge gets thicker and thicker . This will dramatically reduce cutting efficiency.
Better to learn on a stone from the get go.
- Thread starter
- #26
I have an edge pro. They work but you're a slave to it, and if you have geometry issues you're pretty much out of luck with it. Also, some of my Japanese knives have 10~ degree bevels and I don't think the edge pro can get that low.
It works quite well for me. Like anything else automation is looked down upon by purists who can do things free handed. Kitchen knives are large and wide and easy to maintain angles and carbon steel abrades easily. Kitchen knives can be brought back to life quickly, 5 minutes sounds about right since polishing to a mirror edge is undesireable
What got me onto the the edge pro was less about carbon steel kitchen knives, and more with the sharpening of my folders that are made of s30v, CTS204p, CTS-XHP, yadda yadda yadda. The steels are pretty resilient and I had a hard time. Enter the edgepro with an easy to maintain angle, add some Choseras (not 100.00-200.00 a pop lol) and I'm a happy camper. YMMV.
And yes, I am too lazy to learn to free hand them
.
What got me onto the the edge pro was less about carbon steel kitchen knives, and more with the sharpening of my folders that are made of s30v, CTS204p, CTS-XHP, yadda yadda yadda. The steels are pretty resilient and I had a hard time. Enter the edgepro with an easy to maintain angle, add some Choseras (not 100.00-200.00 a pop lol) and I'm a happy camper. YMMV.
And yes, I am too lazy to learn to free hand them
.
7 degrees is the lowest, and adding riser blocks can bring it down to around 5. This is not from experience BTW only regurgitating internet info.
Touched up my Takeda on a Nakayama Shiro Suita. This stone is like cheating.
- Thread starter
- #30
Nice Jeremy. Is that suita pretty hard?
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