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Peak's stuff is well built, its pretty hard to find a better bang for your buck. Unfortunately I have a very hard time tying on them something about the way its setup and designed. I'm sure I could change the way I tie to suit the vice but I'd rather find a vise that suits the way I tie.
 
The depths of this site still amaze me! I haven't tied any flies for about 4 years, but I've been tying for about 22 years on and off. I'll have to start from the top and read all the posts!
 
Peak's stuff is well built, its pretty hard to find a better bang for your buck. Unfortunately I have a very hard time tying on them something about the way its setup and designed. I'm sure I could change the way I tie to suit the vice but I'd rather find a vise that suits the way I tie.
Well, each vise is a little bit different. But that difference can affect your ties. If you are not comfortable with the Peak, I would keep looking. Try to borrow a different one from a fellow tier or try out the vises fly shops normally have available as demonstrators. The biggest difference is in-line rotary and non-rotary vises. Some master tiers like Charlie Craven from Colorado only use a non-rotary vise. By that I mean he uses a vise that rotates, but doesn't rotate the hook on its axis. The HMH I have is rotary, but the hook doesn't rotate on its axis. That vise is extremely well-built and operates as smoothly as it gets. The HMH holds a hook like grim death. It also has an optional midge jaw that allows full access to the back of #24 and smaller hooks. The Regal is an amazing piece of engineering. A tier doesn't have to fiddle with it to change the jaw for different sizes of hooks. I believe the stainless steel jaws are the best value and utility. It can hold hooks from #2 to #32. That would be perfect for most bass flies and all trout flies.
 
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The depths of this site still amaze me! I haven't tied any flies for about 4 years, but I've been tying for about 22 years on and off. I'll have to start from the top and read all the posts!
Welcome! It looks like we entertain a variety of topics in fly tying. Pick one and you'll get an answer or comment.
 
UTC really is some good stuff. Veevus makes some interesting products though, have you ever tried their quill?

As far as adhesives go, I either use something like superglue (Waspi Z-Ment is my go to) or I use ultra thin UV resin. I've actually been moving more toward the ultra thin UV resin lately, its thin enough to soak into thread and it cures pretty much instantly.
Just noticed I had not answered your question about Veevus quill. I've meant to order Veevus Body Quill, but I kept forgetting to do it. Now that I see a break in the flies I'm obligated to tie and I'm not racing to get materials, I'll order some. it might be an excellent material for sparse bodies on dry or wet flies. What have you used it for?
 
Just noticed I had not answered your question about Veevus quill. I've meant to order Veevus Body Quill, but I kept forgetting to do it. Now that I see a break in the flies I'm obligated to tie and I'm not racing to get materials, I'll order some. it might be an excellent material for sparse bodies on dry or wet flies. What have you used it for?

I've ordered a few different colors to try as a replacement to natural quill for things like Quill Gordons. I find the natural material to be a bit of a pain to work with.
 
i received a new vise for Christmas, a wolff atlas. along with a bobbin cradle. its a solid vise, now i just have to get my tying skills up to par with the vise.
 
i received a new vise for Christmas, a wolff atlas. along with a bobbin cradle. its a solid vise, now i just have to get my tying skills up to par with the vise.
I am unfamiliar with the Atlas, but I've seen Wolff vises advertised heavily. If you are a beginner, I highly recommend you get a class for beginners at your local fly shop and a good manual. The "Step-by-Step Beginner Fly Tying Manual & DVD" by Ryan Keyes, pub. in 2013, No Nonsense Fly Fishing Guidebooks is the best I've seen. It's the reference we use to teach beginners in Project Healing Waters. Keyes stresses techniques and handling of materials and starts with the basics and explains each step of tying from the San Juan Worm to the Elk Hair Caddis. Don't hesitate posting a question here or a fly tying board if you have any difficulties.
 
I am unfamiliar with the Atlas, but I've seen Wolff vises advertised heavily. If you are a beginner, I highly recommend you get a class for beginners at your local fly shop and a good manual. The "Step-by-Step Beginner Fly Tying Manual & DVD" by Ryan Keyes, pub. in 2013, No Nonsense Fly Fishing Guidebooks is the best I've seen. It's the reference we use to teach beginners in Project Healing Waters. Keyes stresses techniques and handling of materials and starts with the basics and explains each step of tying from the San Juan Worm to the Elk Hair Caddis. Don't hesitate posting a question here or a fly tying board if you have any difficulties.
i started with an orvis kit, came with a video manual in addition to hours upon hours of reading and watching tying videos. its a nice vise, true rotory solid stainless steel save for the jaws. ill check out that guide books, would come in handy. ive considered tying a set of flies and seeing what a more experienced tier thinks.
 
i started with an orvis kit, came with a video manual in addition to hours upon hours of reading and watching tying videos. its a nice vise, true rotory solid stainless steel save for the jaws. ill check out that guide books, would come in handy. ive considered tying a set of flies and seeing what a more experienced tier thinks.

You could go mad tying all the flies that are shown online, I know that I did. I freely admit I ended up throwing most of those away. Now I talk with an experienced angler in the area and try and pry their go to flies out of them then build from there.
 
You could go mad tying all the flies that are shown online, I know that I did. I freely admit I ended up throwing most of those away. Now I talk with an experienced angler in the area and try and pry their go to flies out of them then build from there.
You are spot on, catyrpelius. Tie those flies first that are particularly effective in the waters you are likely to fish. New tiers should start with nymphs, perhaps wets, and gradually work up to dry flies, since the proportions are more critical. Advice from local experienced tiers and anglers are very important. If you consult on-line videos, restrict your selection to only those flies you know work in your waters. But be aware there are normally going to find several different ways of tying the same fly and some flies abound with variations. Again, consult you local guru. The exciting thing about tying the same fly several different ways is that you build an arsenal of techniques that enable you to tie more complicated patterns. In my classes I try to explain more than one way to accomplish a step and what the advantages and disadvantages of the techniques, e. g., whip-finishing vs. half-hitch, manual whip-finishing vs. whip-finishing tool.
 
Herman
 

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my second attempt at a fan wing royal coachman, the wing needs to be a tad shorter but i enjoyed tying this.


this is my own creation. it was successful last year, unsure on what to name it though. i might trying and shift the tag down a bit for more body.
 
Nice job on the two flies!

I'd recommend tying a few dozen of one then moving on from there. Repetition seems to be everything in this hobby.
 
The name is Herman. I just tied it the other day and haven't had a chance to try it yet

Jeff
Ah, a winged wet fly! I believe this is a Theodore Gordon pattern he created in the 19th Century. I don't tie winged wet flies, but I do tie a lot of wet or soft hackle flies. Do you fish a lot of wet flies?
 
Teterondon: Very nice Royal Coachman. At first glance it looks just like one I tied a month ago, except the wings were different. And you have a nicer vice than my $20 Cablelas.

C A: I have mainly fished nymphs with good success. But I wanted to try something different and the winged wets caught my eye so I'm tying an assortment of them for this next season. I'm tying ones that have had great success by others, so we'll see. I'm really looking forward to fishing with them.
 
I intend to go back to soft-hackle or wet flies at some point, but I am a bit swamped with other flies I need to tie for Project Healing Waters. I've been tying a lot of nymphs lately and using UV resin. So, I thought I would change the running topic for the moment and ask everyone here about UV resin. Normally, I've used several UV resin products, e. g., Clear Cure Goo, Loon, Solarez. Most of the time I choose the thin product over the thick versions. For smaller flies I'll use a bodkin and a drop to coat the head and/or carapace, form whatever look I want. and then cook it with a UV lamp. If I find the UV coating is still a little tacky, I'll use Sally Hansen's Hard as Nails and any tackiness goes away. So, what is your experience with UV resin?
 
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