Just finished a few dozen bunny leaches for Alaska. Heading up on Aug. 5th for two weeks!
Hope you have a great time! I've always wanted to go there. I'm just afraid I wouldn't come home!Just finished a few dozen bunny leaches for Alaska. Heading up on Aug. 5th for two weeks!
Those are fairly sophisticated flies for a new tier. What prompted you to tie? What source do you use to learn?
Pictures, or it didn't happen!
got quite a bit of tying done today, 6 elk hair caddis, 2 vermont caddis, and 7 BH caddis larva. hopefully ill be able to get some material for tying royal coachmen, hornberg, and some wet fly patterns.
Now that would be a wonderful trip. What else are you tying besides bunny leeches? Where in Alaska are your going?Just finished a few dozen bunny leaches for Alaska. Heading up on Aug. 5th for two weeks!
Lately, I've been tying dozens of midges, #18 to #24, for Project Healing Waters. Strong light and magnification are critical for me when I tie these tiny flies. You might try tying the Zebra Midge in size #18 as a start and tie smaller later. The Zebra Midge works just about anywhere. But ask flyfishers in your area about midges.
Now that would be a wonderful trip. What else are you tying besides bunny leeches? Where in Alaska are your going?
I've been to Alaska at least three times over the years. The group I go with always want to go to Prince of Wales Island, which I believe is the third larges island in the US. PoW has at least five rivers loaded with salmon and sometimes large sea-run cutthroat trout. I usually target the coho salmon. Coho move through the pods of pinks and are easy to spot when an angler can get a little elevation to see the water. It's a hoot when a coho takes a fly and tries to change zip codes in its run. I've seen some fly rodders get spooled from coho. I take a tying kit with me and materials specially loaded for the various flies I expect to work. I tie at night for the flies that worked that day. I do the same whenever I fly out to the West.
I expect you'll be in flyfishing heaven shortly after you arrive at your destination in Alaska. Enjoy the rush!
The most important thing for new tiers is to learn techniques and the characteristics of materials. I don't know how far away you live to one of the better fly shops, Stone River Outfitters, Bedford, NH, but you should find about anything you need there. Many tiers I know regularly visit the local craft stores in search of materials.
Wet flies are fun to fish and easy to tie. Be careful you don't over-hackle the fly, which defeats the purpose of the hackle. Wet flies are meant to be fished within very, very short depths of water. There is a movement within the flyfishing community for soft hackle flies. Dave Hughes, the late Sylvester Nemes have provided a trove of knowledge on the subject. Domestic hen skins are much, much cheaper than genetic dry fly skins as you have probably noticed.
Lately, I've been tying dozens of midges, #18 to #24, for Project Healing Waters. Strong light and magnification are critical for me when I tie these tiny flies. You might try tying the Zebra Midge in size #18 as a start and tie smaller later. The Zebra Midge works just about anywhere. But ask flyfishers in your area about midges.
thanks for the advice, the midges and nymphs definetly where very easy to tie, over the weekend i bought some material to tie more, now i just need hooks to tie the coachman and hornberg flies.
Before we leave midges, you might want to Google the Disco Midge, which I believe is a Pat Dorsey pattern. It is really effective about anywhere as well. I switched to foam beetles this past week. The 1 or 2mm foam is available at most craft stores and foam is cheap, less than $2 for an 8" x 10" sheet. Just cut strips slightly larger that the gap of the hook. Use a relatively short hook in #10 - #14. I found an ideal hook, the Knapek N, at troutlegend.com. Legs may be fine black rubber or black Krystal Flash. You can use dubbed black or peacock Ice Dub or twisted, wrapped peacock herls for the body. This time of year should be ideal fishing with beetles. Unsure what I'll be tying next. I'm getting a lot of calls for scuds.
Tetraodon, I am not sure what you are using for soft hackle, but I can share a few tips for you. Hen, partridge, and grouse feathers are most often used in creating soft hackle flies. Wild game feathers are more delicate than hen and break more often than hen. But you can avoid breakage by soaking the feather in water or even glycerin for awhile before you use them. The usual way it is tied in is by the tip. With the outside of the feather faces up on the hook. Normally, the outside of the feather is convex, has more distinct markings, and has slightly more shine than the inside of the feather. Prepare the feather by removing the soft down or fluff nearest the bottom of the stem. With your thumb and forefinger of one hand grab a very few barbules at the tip of the feather and with the forefinger and thumb of the other hand spread out the barbules along the length of the feather toward the stem. The feather now should have its barbules perpendicular to the stem. Wet down the few barbules at the tip, which are separated from the barbules of the rest of the feather, preen them together, and cut them into a tiny triangle. Tie in this triangle behind the eye and wrap the thread over it with two soft and one firm wraps. With your hackle plier wrap the feather two close turns toward the body of the fly. The hackle should splay out evenly around the hook and slightly toward the body. If not, overwrap into the hackle once or twice.
Hope I explained it well enough. Before you begin you should measure the feather for its proper size. North Country or Yorkshire flies traditionally have hackles well past the bend. I would keep the hackle sparse, perhaps just a couple of turns of hackle. However, some patterns show heavy hackle. In my humble opinion, heavy hackle defeats the purpose of wet flies. Sparse hackle simulates the flutter and struggle of appendages of an insect. As always, practice, practice, practice.