Dry Heat Sterilization? (I.e., use your oven)

Discussion in 'Double Edged Razors' started by Alacrity59, Feb 26, 2010.

  1. Alacrity59

    Alacrity59 Moderator Emeritus Contributor

    I read hundreds of posts here on the subject of Sterilization involving scrubbing bubbles, barbicide, alcohol, ultrasonic cleaning, boiling, and autoclaving. (not all of which meet true sterilization standards) From my personal point of view some of us are obsessing on the subject I'd like to add this idea.

    There is a procedure for dry heat sterilization I came across on the web which involves heating an item in an oven and maintain the oven at these temperatures for the times shown. Probably not great for plastic parts but then again neither would autoclaving.

    170 degrees C (340 degrees F) - 1 hour
    160 degrees C (320 degrees F) - 2 hours
    150 degrees C (300 degrees F) - 2.5 hours
    140 degrees C (285 degrees F) - 3 hours

    Let cool

    I figure I could do this at the same time as cooking a roast or baking bread in order to waste less energy. I wonder too if using the self cleaning cycle would work. I think self cleaning happens at about 900 F which is lower than the melting point of most metals . . . might turn some things that bluish colour though.

    What do you guys think? Personally I'm happy with wiping down with scrubbing bubbles or some other common cleaner . . . so if you could . . . let's avoid discussing the alternatives that have already been discussed.

  2. Nothing short of irradiation will suffice for me. Large doses of ionizing radiation with X-rays or Gamma rays is my preference. Just kidding. :laugh: Actually, I'm satisfied with alcohol for most of my disinfecting needs. The procedure you have outlined is part of a larger process to decontaminate medical instruments in a hospital environment. I'm not sure a home oven will meet their standards but I'm sure for our purposes, a home oven is adequate.

    Personally, I don't think we have to worry about disinfecting and sanitizing our tools perfectly. The goal is to have clean tools, not sterile tools. We are not doing open-heart surgery on individuals under anesthesia. Our bodies are quite capable of handling most pathogens we encounter on a day-to-day basis.
  3. I like dry heat too, but prefer the flaming fires of hell to make sure everything is dead.
    This probably isn't good for the plating but since I'm having these heads replated I don't care.
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2010
  4. The very high heat/autoclaving is intended to sterilize. As the prior poster noted, these are not surgical instruments. Liquid disinfectant should kill enough viruses and bacteria for this purpose. You are not trying to kill mold spores which require the high heat to damage the tough outer shell.
  5. Mike,

    This is a good post and addresses razor sterilization in general and the dry heat method in particular.

    Here are my concerns.
    First off. 900˚F. Don't even think about it. Like other methods some of the guys think that more is better and the results are disasters.

    Some of the adjustable and super speed type of razors have plastic seals and spacers that could get damaged.

    Razors can get a buildup of dirt and scum inside that is not easily cleaned. What will baking do to this dirt? I think in some instances the mechanisms can bind up.

    What will high heat do to lacquer on gold plated razors. I don't know. I have the same objections to boiling razors.

    Do razors really need sterilization? I don't sterilize my silverware when I clean them after eating.

  6. These threads humor me. A razor is a non-porous surface that has usually not been used for some time when we get them. Most of the stuff has been long dead. The little bit that is left is killed in the cleaning/barbicide process.

    Put down yer purses, man up, and shave!:biggrin1:

    It's like that listerine commercial, about the self dispensing soap thing. "A soap dispenser can harbor x number of germs. Don't you want to protect your family with this needless device." See, cause the way I look at it, you wash your hands right after pressing the soap pump, bye bye germs.
  7. My philosophy since I began using old DEs.
  8. This statement reminds of living in Ridgecrest, CA back in the 80s. Not that it has anything to do with shaving, but it was the time that I did start shaving.
  9. I use witchcraft.
  10. I expose my razors to the gamma radiation emitted by a dying star.
  11. You can't be too careful (paranoid) remember the Andromeda Strain.
  12. +1000

    So far, I haven't died. :tongue_sm

    (although some might wish I would . . .)
  13. Details, please!:lol::lol::lol:

    Many probably want the benefit of your expertise.
  14. Bring me the blood of three chickens, a hogs tooth, a pewter goblet, and all of your razors. I'll have them back to you the morning after the new moon. :jump:
  15. Personally, I like the idea of melting them down to molten slag metal and then recasting the razors before using. Anything more gentle might allow the cooties to survive!
  16. After all you are just shaving not ingesting it.
  17. Dontcha just love marketing - if there isn't a market, feed the fear and make one...
  18. I wouldn't worry too much about heat at the sub 200 degree temps listed in the O.P. but as the temps get higher one thing I think would be a concern would be the possibility of warpage or distortion of the razor. It wouldn't take a whole lot of distortion at all, a couple of thousandths of an inch maybe to affect the quality of the shave. With the different thickness of the metals throughout the razors they might heat and cool at different rates causing the potential for problems. I don't know what the magic temp that problems start occurring would be, but I would guess anything over 350-400F could cause issues
  19. luvmysuper

    luvmysuper Moderator Emeritus Contributor

    I love that book AND the film (the original one)

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