Asking the experts.

[sfeile]

My only experience with fountain pens has been the felt tip calligraphy pens and the sheaffer cross pens that I used in high school 27+ years ago. I want to get another one, but due to current situations will have to limit myself in price.
My other issue, is that I don't write a lot, and know nothing about converters, I don't want something that will dry out or get ruined if it sits for a while.

I probably should also add, I am left handed, but I don't write with an over or under hook. I keep my hand straight and my arm at about a 45 degree angle or so. Pretty much the same position most right handed people do. So a faster drying pen would be nice. I remember I had some smudging with the cross in school, but used it all the time so it never dried out on me. Also, there is really no place within 2 hours drive to buy one locally. There is a staples, but that is it.

I was looking at the Pilot MR in either the animal (black/crocodile) or metropolitan series. Is this something that would fit into what I am looking for? Or am I asking too much?

 

[August West]

I believe the type of ink is more of a determining factor regarding the quickness of drying than the pen. I use gouletpens.com.

 

[dexutter]

My Pilot metro does great, doesn't really dry out. I'd probably go Fine (less ink) and use a quicker drying ink.

 

[sfeile]

Thanks guys! And thanks for that link Tony! I watched a couple of his videos and it's one of his recommended starter pens. Comes with a cartridge and converter, so I can play around with both and still stay affordable. Looks like that's the one I'm going to get.

 

[Claudel Xerxes]

Glad to see you posting in The Nib, Shawn!

Regardless of the ink or pen that you chose, you might want to practice underwriting. I'm right handed, but still changed how I position my hand when I started using a fountain pen regularly. It felt only slightly awkward for a couple of days, then I got use to some of the changes that I made. Just a few days of practice will keep you from having to cater to inks with fast dry times. As Tony mentioned, the ink (along with the paper) will have more to do with your dry time than the pen.

Metropolitans are great. That was my first fountain pen. It should give you a good idea as to if fountain pens are something to invest further into.

 

[sfeile]

Hi Erik!

I've done some reading here and did notice there is a difference with paper and ink. I think the big thing that made me nervous was the whole converter thing. After watching the videos on the link Tony shared, I think even I can figure it out now.

Plus with that one having the cartridge option, it makes it easy when I need it to be.

Ps.
I'm going to be putting that Klaus in some nice walnut here pretty soon!

 

[August West]

Metropolitans are a solid place to start.

 

[Claudel Xerxes]

Hi Erik!

I've done some reading here and did notice there is a difference with paper and ink. I think the big thing that made me nervous was the whole converter thing. After watching the videos on the link Tony shared, I think even I can figure it out now.

Plus with that one having the cartridge option, it makes it easy when I need it to be.

Ps.
I'm going to be putting that Klaus in some nice walnut here pretty soon!

I think that you'll be able to handle using a converter just fine. If a pen that I get comes with a cartridge and a converter, then I usually fill the converter up with whatever I like and carry the cartridge as a backup when I think that I might need some extra ink on hand.

Here's a few nice, quick videos on some ink filling techniques:
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/347348-Video-Reference-and-Tutorial-Guides

I saw that you'd won one of the scales in the PIF! Have fun with that. I love walnut on straights. I'm looking forward to seeing how they turn out, if you decide to post pictures again.

 

[sfeile]

I think that you'll be able to handle using a converter just fine. If a pen that I get comes with a cartridge and a converter, then I usually fill the converter up with whatever I like and carry the cartridge as a backup when I think that I might need some extra ink on hand.

Here's a few nice, quick videos on some ink filling techniques:
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/347348-Video-Reference-and-Tutorial-Guides

I saw that you'd won one of the scales in the PIF! Have fun with that. I love walnut on straights. I'm looking forward to seeing how they turn out, if you decide to post pictures again.

Thanks for the link! Going to check it out!

I will be posting pics of it in that thread when I get a chance to get started. The father-in-law had a trip to make and I had therapy today, but hopefully soon.

 

[Runnin_Ute]

Good advice given. While paper like Rhodia, Clarefontaine, Tomoe River play very nice with fountain pens, because the paper is smooth the ink sits "on top" of the paper rather than dry into. You probably want something like that, but maybe is a "little" more absorbent. Something like Red n Black (available at big box office supply stores) has some of both qualities. Made in Brazil composition books for a really cheap option.

The Pilot Metropolitan and MR because they are Japanese even though a pen might be marked M - if you compare to a M from a western company brand (Europe/US), the Pilot will be narrower. So a Metro M is like a F for a Parker for example. I am more used to western nibs.

Experiment with inks. Goulet Pens, Andersen Pens and Vanness Pens all have samples of inks they carry. So you can spend $10 on ink and get 8 different inks to try. Samples are 2-3 ml each. Versus a 30, 50 or more milliliter bottle which will be $8 or more and you might not like it.

 

[sfeile]

Good advice given. While paper like Rhodia, Clarefontaine, Tomoe River play very nice with fountain pens, because the paper is smooth the ink sits "on top" of the paper rather than dry into. You probably want something like that, but maybe is a "little" more absorbent. Something like Red n Black (available at big box office supply stores) has some of both qualities. Made in Brazil composition books for a really cheap option.

The Pilot Metropolitan and MR because they are Japanese even though a pen might be marked M - if you compare to a M from a western company brand (Europe/US), the Pilot will be narrower. So a Metro M is like a F for a Parker for example. I am more used to western nibs.

Experiment with inks. Goulet Pens, Andersen Pens and Vanness Pens all have samples of inks they carry. So you can spend $10 on ink and get 8 different inks to try. Samples are 2-3 ml each. Versus a 30, 50 or more milliliter bottle which will be $8 or more and you might not like it.

Thanks for the tips! I did see in the one video review of the pilot where he mentioned that the nibs were smaller than "standard". I will definitely check out the ink samples as well.
I did see Noodlers (sp?) has some fast drying ink that I may look into as well.

 

[tetraodon]

ink is going to be the biggest factor, it also depends on the way you write, the old style hook, straight across, or down low. turning the paper can helps as well. here is a good goulet vid for lefties http://blog.gouletpens.com/2015/08/fp101-fountain-pens-for-lefties.html

 

[sfeile]

ink is going to be the biggest factor, it also depends on the way you write, the old style hook, straight across, or down low. turning the paper can helps as well. here is a good goulet vid for lefties http://blog.gouletpens.com/2015/08/fp101-fountain-pens-for-lefties.html

Thanks for that link! I had to write something to actually check, but I'm kind of in the middle of an under-writer and a side-writer. I do remember when I got smears on my hand in school, it was always on my pinkie knuckle where it was bent. So at the extreme top of my writing position. Shouldn't take too much of an adjustment for me then.

Now my big thing is the nib size. I write very small, so I was thinking a fine point, but since I think I will be getting the pilot and they seem to be on the small side, I wonder if it will be too small. I write just fine with a .5mm mechanical pencil lead with no extra breakage or tearing the paper or anything, so I think I should be ok with a fine.

I do think I am going to try an ink sampler before jumping into a full bottle though. The more I see, the more that looks like a better idea.

 

[tetraodon]

Thanks for that link! I had to write something to actually check, but I'm kind of in the middle of an under-writer and a side-writer. I do remember when I got smears on my hand in school, it was always on my pinkie knuckle where it was bent. So at the extreme top of my writing position. Shouldn't take too much of an adjustment for me then.

Now my big thing is the nib size. I write very small, so I was thinking a fine point, but since I think I will be getting the pilot and they seem to be on the small side, I wonder if it will be too small. I write just fine with a .5mm mechanical pencil lead with no extra breakage or tearing the paper or anything, so I think I should be ok with a fine.

I do think I am going to try an ink sampler before jumping into a full bottle though. The more I see, the more that looks like a better idea.

you can try rotating the paper and see how that helps, ink samples are a great way to get started. a fine nib should be good for you, of course a japanese fine will be finer than a western fine as others have stated. my twsbi and my conklin fine are just about or slightly finer than my .7 mech pencil, if that helps. but ink and paper will also affect the width of the line so be aware of that. remember to have with it,

 

[sfeile]

I did it!

Was out and about today and picked up some pens. First one was a Scheaffer, but I think I screwed myself on it. I was at the antique shop and saw it fairly reasonable. I took the cap off and the nib looked in great shape. I didn't open it past opening the cap however, and I think I bought a throw-away. The "cartridge" doesn't seem like it is removable.

Also picked up a nice wooden ballpoint pen/pencil set for the Mrs., and stopped at staples afterwards to get re-fills for everything. (That's when I noticed the cartridge won't come out.) So I grabbed a nice new Pilot. Not the one with the converter unfortunately, but I finally got one! Now to work on my chicken scratch......

 

[nemo]

.... I took the cap off and the nib looked in great shape. I didn't open it past opening the cap however, and I think I bought a throw-away. The "cartridge" doesn't seem like it is removable.

It's not a cartridge pen, it is a Tip-Dip touchdown filler, what you see is a black sac protector over a rubber reservoir (which is likely as hard as a rock). If you want to use it you can easily have it restored by a pro or attempt a rebuild yourself.

www.vintagepens.com/FAQrepair/Sheaffer_Touchdown_repair.shtml

Your Sheaffer looks like a Cadet -->
http://www.penhero.com/PenGallery/Sheaffer/SheafferTipDip.htm

 

[sfeile]

It's not a cartridge pen, it is a Tip-Dip touchdown filler, what you see is a black sac protector over a rubber reservoir (which is likely as hard as a rock). If you want to use it you can easily have it restored by a pro or attempt a rebuild yourself.

www.vintagepens.com/FAQrepair/Sheaffer_Touchdown_repair.shtml

Your Sheaffer looks like a Cadet -->
http://www.penhero.com/PenGallery/Sheaffer/SheafferTipDip.htm

Thanks for the links Doug! I actually got to messing with it a little after I posted that, and pulled the plastic cover off it. The reservoir is actually in fairly good shape. It's still nice and flexible with no cracks.

I'm gathering it is supposed to be used with some sort of a plunger to fill?

 

[nemo]

from the second link

The pens fill easily with a single downward stroke of the Touchdown plunger. My experience with these pens is that they are very reliable. I've seen many work right out of the box, but one should consider having any vintage Touchdown pen serviced.

See if the barrel will make pressure when the blind cap is depressed. If so, you may be in business. Try to fill it from a glass of water before putting ink in, just in case!

 

[sfeile]

from the second link


See if the barrel will make pressure when the blind cap is depressed. If so, you may be in business. Try to fill it from a glass of water before putting ink in, just in case!

Yep, feel like an idiot now. Looked right at that....

It works! Cleaned out some old ink that was in it by doing it a few times. Now I just have to get some ink......

 

[sfeile]

Filled out some insurance paperwork with the Pilot today. It has a fine nib, and I think that it is almost too big. Apparently, I write REALLY small. I think when I get a chance to up-grade, I'm going to see if I can find an extra-fine. Wife likes the Pilot, so I think she will take it over.