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Grinding stone help

So as always thank you all for the help I have gotten from you fine people. I was reading the GD mod stickie to learn what I can for the GD mods I am going to do, well if they actually get here, they were supposed to be here today by 8pm. I guess the storm held it up.

Anyway I got two razors, just in case. I was planning on grinding the heel and who knows what else. I will be using a dremel or battery powered drill to do all the work. So does anyone know what grinding stones for the dremel I need? There are different hardnesses for different materials. From what I can tell I will need orange stones which does ceramic tile, steel and other harder materials. Is this all I will need? Would it be good to get say the pink or green for cleaning up the grinds?

And if I wanted to add decoration to the spine/tang, should I just use the grinding stones? Or some kind of other dremel bit? I need to order the grinding tools so I want to make sure I get the stuff I need and not waste any money. I have the polishing wheels so I am good with those.
 
I like the sanding drums much better than the grinding stones, don't be shy get the 80 grit ones and get to work.

Eye protection and always keep the spinning towards the edge, you don't want to catch it and fling the razor
 
I like the sanding drums much better than the grinding stones, don't be shy get the 80 grit ones and get to work.

Eye protection and always keep the spinning towards the edge, you don't want to catch it and fling the razor

I have sanding drums, not sure what grit they are but I think they are close to if not 80 grit. Yeah I have a mask and safety glasses already, I have had metal in the eye once when I worked in a autoparts shop, never want that to happen again. Thanks for the help, didn't think the sanding disks would work.
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
+1 what Alfredo said. If you are using a Dremel, you want the coarse sanding drums for shaping. Keep your work cool. You can grind away for 20 or even 30 seconds at a time on the thick areas, but only a couple of seconds where the blade is thin. I do a dozen at a time so I never have to stop for cooling, just rotate through the batch. You will want a cup of water or ice water handy to dunk the blades into, for cooling. When you see brown or blue stains from overheating, the steel is ruined, for your purposes.

Garden hose, fuel hose, air hose, etc makes a good sanding block for hand sanding hollow ground blades, BTW. You can glue 60 grit to a tile or plate of heavy glass for thinning the spine, straightening and parallelling the edge, stuff like that.

If you want a mirror finish, you need a progression of sandpaper up to 2k, then 3u and 1u and finer if desired, diamond paste and felt wheels.
 
You guys ever use a bench sander to do the heavy work? Or will the 60 grit glued to a tile work fast enough? I am guessing that overheating a blade would be much more likely with a power tool. I was going to order some GD's here shortly and wanted to make sure I have any tools lined up. I already have my Harbor Freight wannabe dremel which works great for me. I get maybe 3 to 4 hours a week to work on my razors, so hand sanding for hours on end kills my progress. I was thinking about picking a bench sander up for working on scales, but I wasn't sure if it would be wise to use on a blade as well.
 
All good advice. I would add though that you only need to be concerned with overheating when you are near the edge.

I never thought about overheating the blade or even the edge. I guess this can cause warping. I will keep this in mind once I get my honing kit.
 
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