Jerry Stack / Brian Brown / Portland Razor Co

[nobie381]

Background: I just started SR shaving the first of the year... strictly SR only. I have a Utica Red Point square point. I have a full beard and was thinking of going with a French point to make the beard lines easier to cut. Only time I have nicked myself has been going against the grain under my jaw line on the right side. Scales I was thinking ironwood/burl or dyed horn (hard to settle on the scale material when my blade design was flipped up side down looking at Jerrys works of art).
Before I get to the Artisan questions, does a French point the best option and would a smile edge help with the neck area? If so would the shave action be different or even stropping? Lastly I don't know the grind of my Red point so not sure what razor I should look at.

Jerry Stack razors- I have not seen much in the way of the grind he puts on the razors. But the finish products look amazing. I was thinking of a "Rugged with some refinement" look to my razor but Jerry has a few very clean designed blades that transition from the face to the spine seamlessly, a simple elegance and beautiful. So he had me rethinking the design. His French points are more rounded which not sure is a +/-.

Brain Brown Razors- These got some great reviews but the grind does have me a bit worries as they are belly hollow/ full hollow and from what I read has a bit of a challenge to the cutting angle. His French points end at a point but also his spike points are more well refined so not sure what would work better or if you gain more accuracy with this design compared to either of the other two companies French versions.

Portland Razors- I know they do Quarter-Hollow grinds and I do enjoy hearing a sound when I go to hit a whisker to two next to my nose to know I "got him". But I hear great things from their razors.

All in all I think I can push 400.00 (but my wife said 250 sounded like a lot but she watch me shave and sees why a different blade would be needed) so I have no grand over the top design I was going for other than a 6/8 or a 7/8 blade. But any recommendations you can give would be greatly appreciated with points, the smile edge, and grind which plays into the artisan I go with.

 

[6Cuda6]

Do you have a full beard or an alitteration of such?
The reason i ask is if your only shaving next and top line going big would be a dissadvantage in my opinion....think square, small and agile....Ferrari instead of F450 dually.
As for smiling blade, i love mine for the neck area but a littke trucky on the flatter parts of the cheek etc...
If it was me id be going 4/8 or 5/8...french point and pointed heel so i can line with both points. Smiling if standard length blade but i think i would ask for a shorty to make it easier on the top line.
Other question you need to ask yourself is if you plan on keeping the beard....

 

[Acmemfg]

Top to bottom:
Jerry Stark 7/8-micarta scales
Brian Brown 13/16-American Holly scales
Ralf Aust 7/8-horn scales

Jerry Stark blades are 1/4 hollow for the most part. He also offers a "extra hollow" grind which is kind of like a bellied hollow I believe. He also offers a choice of 52100 or D2 steel. The D2 is a tad more difficult to hone but it sure keeps an edge..
indeed his razors are most artistic.
Brian Brown and Ralf Aust are making some of the more "hollow" blades available in the arena. BRW (Brown Razor Works) are more a semi-custom product; Ralf Aust is a production razor. Both are excellent examples of what you can get for <$200 in the high quality razor marketplace.
I don't like smile edges; I see no advantage to them and they're tricky to hone.
Quarter hollow grinds are not my favorite, but everyone should have one...or two...or....
My preference is for a very hollow grind, but there are times (like with 2-3 days of growth) a good quarter hollow blade is what ypu are gonna want.
6/8? Good call. 7/8? Another good call. I like them both. Only own one 5/8 blade. Seldom use it.
Spanish or French points are very cool. I find them more convenient to use up around the corners of the nose. I'm no real fan of round points but I do have a couple.

You have the opportunity to make some fun decisions here.
Choose wisely Grasshopper......

 

[RayClem]

I do not have a full beard, but I currently sport a mustache. You probably want to avoid a round point, but any of the other options should work for trimming around your beard. I love Spanish points and barber notch razors, but I have at least one example of each of the point styles except a true spike point; mine is closer to square.

Personally, I am not fond of 5/8" razors; they are too light for me. However, in the past, barbers tended to use small razors for trimming around beards. Erbe produces 4/8" hollow ground razors, but I would not consider buying one that small as I would find it too light.

I have a Jerry Stark custom. Most of his razors fall somewhere between a quarter and half hollow ground. However, he has purchased some smaller diameter wheels that allow him to produce a more hollow grind. It won't be true hollow, but more of a belly grind. You may have to special order to get what you want. Although Jerry hand hones his razors before shipment, his skill at grinding and producing scales surpasses is skill at honing. I had to touch up mine to get it shave ready to my standards. However, it was close, so it did not take more than a few minutes to turn it into a nice shaver.

The Brian Brown semi-custom razors are available in several widths, point styles, and even short and long versions. While his custom razors tend to be quarter hollow, his semi-custom razors are belly grind. I do not currently have one. A friend from the forums is sending me his BRW razor to try. If I like it, I will purchase my own in a few weeks.

Ralf Aust uses traditional German dual-wheel grinders. He can produce a beautiful full-hollow blade. I have one of his 6/8" Spanish points. It it a beautiful razor and a wonderful shaver.

Thiers Issard can also produce a great razor, but their record of quality on scales and other aesthetics is spotty. I have a TI Sheep and Wolf 6/8 silver steel full hollow ground with a French/Irish point. It is one of TI's higher priced models, but if you get one without defects, it is a superb razor. I got lucky; mine even came shave ready from the factory.

 

[nobie381]

Currently I shave/clean up every other day. So from what I can tell Utica red points are Full Hollow which means I am good with that type of grind.
If comparing Jerry's extra hollow and Brian's full hollow is one "better" than the other or would I not feel a big difference? I am guessing no but as stated before both have a different French tip design as well. I like both in the way of looks but which would perform better in precision working around the nose and the check line? (I plan to keep the beard for now but you never know what the summer will bring)
Lastly scales, I like the pattern of burl wood but strongly considering horn. Is this all looks or do I anything to consider? I was looking at the dyed and natural buffalo horn for that pattern or any ideas of other types to look at?
Do the road if I am having every few days I could go for a Quarter hollow grind for that work horse razor.
I plan to own one of each at some point but really looking for the staple razor to use every shave right now.

 

[Jnatcat]

Jerry Stark makes a top notch razor, i had one and the grind was perfect and the bevel looked like it was cut with a laser, the edge after I honed it to my taste was a killer edge but just never really felt comfortable in my hand so sadly after several months I sold it off but selling it had nothing to do with quaility it was an ergonomic thing for me, can't comment on BBRW yet but have be hammering out some details with Brian to get one made, i have honed and shaved with several Ralf Aust's and they are exceptional razors, I aslo have honed some PRC razors but honestly don't care for the 1/4 hollow grind but some like them alot

 

[Lmarkow]

Brian Brown. Wouldn't wan't any of the others, even for free.

 

[paintflinger]

I'd go Brian Brown or Koraat Knives bellied hollow (a bit cheaper).

 

[Bad_B]

I dont own a Stark, but I do have two 7/8 BBRW semi customs, two PRC and two Koraats. You cant go wrong with any of them, but if full hollow is your grind of choice, Ulrik's (Koraat) full bellied hollow would be my choice. My two BBRW are his 1/4 hollow but they shave just like a a full hollow and would be my second choice. Brian's scale execution is excellent, my Spanish point in black horn is one of the best finished scales I have outside full custom scales. Ulrik is no slouch in the scale department and I do love my full wedge in Birch burl scales, they are a bit thick but that in no way effects the razors performance. Ulrik also has a large selection of burls and other materials to chose from on his razor builder page. My absolute favorite razor is my 8/8 Koraat spike point in custom ivory scales....if you want a point to do trim work with, thats the one to get, lol.

PRC makes a good product at their price point and they shave very well, but their 1/4 hollow is a true 1/4 hollow and very different from Brian's 1/4 hollow grind. Holding all three makers in your hand you understand why Ulrik and Brian's razors demand a higher price, the fit and finish are simply better. Ill toss in some token pictures, because everyone loves pictures!
Should be: BBRW 7/8 square point in custom briarwood scales by Doc226, PRC 6/8 Kraken, BBRW 7/8 Spanish point in black horn, 8/8 Koraat full wedge in Birch Burl, PRC 8/8 French point The Strix with custom scaled again by Doc226, 8/8 Koraat Spike point in custom ivory by Doc.

Good luck and let us know what you chose!

 

[KW Driver]

the standard Brown Razor Works he initially came out with are 1/2 hollow. they shave fantastically. I bought a shorty of his that was bellied, and I'd call it a 3/4 hollow, because there's still a good bit of meat in the blade, especially compared to traditional vintage full/extra hollows. they'll both feel stiffer and make a bit less noise as they cut compared to what you're using now. a true 1/4 hollow will feel much stiffer, and much quieter. I have extra hollow to vintage wedge. they all feel slightly to very different from each other. the heavier grinds are more likely to plow through skin, or a mole if you're not paying attention. my first wedge shave it did to me, and it was over and through before I even felt the razor slow down. so you have to adjust yourself to each really, and learn the feel of each blade in that regard.

any point you like, straight/spike, French or Spanish will allow you to put the toe exactly where you want it. the differences really are aesthetic. a round point is harder to put the toe edge of the bevel exactly where you want it initially, I'd think. from an aesthetic perspective, I prefer anything to a round point, but have a couple.

 

[nobie381]

If I went for a 6/8 instead of a 7/8 blade will I be disappointed? Currently I have a 5/8 full hollow and looking at Brian Browns razors.

 

[6Cuda6]

If I went for a 6/8 instead of a 7/8 blade will I be disappointed? Currently I have a 5/8 full hollow and looking at Brian Browns razors.

I dont think so but i beleive if you want something different go big.

I love my big blades...7/8, 8/8, 9/8, 16/15 etc as they shave effortless to me but i do have smaller ....lol.

 

[nobie381]

Man I looked at the Koraat customer page and there's a lot to pick from, I got lost with all the options.

I will need to put that on the list, I really want to support USA makers.

 

[Acmemfg]

Almost all my razors are between 6/8 and 7/8...and one is 13/16. I do have one 5/8; nice but seldom used.
Not a lot of difference among them which is affected by size. They range from really hollow to quarter hollow. Therein is where they differ...a LOT.

 

[Jnatcat]

BBRW razors from chatting with Brian run on the larger side, I was going to get a 7/8 and he advised that his run closer to 8/8 so I chose a 6/8 and it will be 13/16"-7/8" I'm hoping.

 

[nobie381]

I am taking another look at Koraat, a general razor in their customer configuration page is 189.00 (doing a basic setup but will up the configuration as I have 300.00 to play with) , for those who purchased from them, is the price on this page in Euros or in US dollars? Also anyone get a French point? The French point on the site is on an off angle so I can't tell the shape. What grind did you get? How is the quality compared to a Brian Brown? Lastly, I was looking at a 6/8 or 7/8 but I see there is no price difference so would it be crazy to jump right into a 8/8? I think there would just be a learning curve for the trim work I would do on my cheek and me shaving my neck but logically that's a big jump... thoughts?

 

[Doc226]

From there three I would choose BB every day and twice on Sunday

 

[jderimig]

G10 or Acrylic scales?....ready to pull the trigger.

 

[paintflinger]

I am taking another look at Koraat, a general razor in their customer configuration page is 189.00 (doing a basic setup but will up the configuration as I have 300.00 to play with) , for those who purchased from them, is the price on this page in Euros or in US dollars? Also anyone get a French point? The French point on the site is on an off angle so I can't tell the shape. What grind did you get? How is the quality compared to a Brian Brown? Lastly, I was looking at a 6/8 or 7/8 but I see there is no price difference so would it be crazy to jump right into a 8/8? I think there would just be a learning curve for the trim work I would do on my cheek and me shaving my neck but logically that's a big jump... thoughts?

Price is in euros and generally has the VAT included. Not going with a full hollow, jumping from a 6/8 to an 8/8 will increase weight quite a bit with the standard grind. Something to think about. Personally, I've ordered an 8/8 full hollow with French point. Just waiting for Ulrik to tell me it is ready.

 

[paintflinger]

Spoke too soon.